[3Stratman]

Long story guys, so bear with me.

I'm looking to pick up a 2011 or 2012 EB F150 Supercrew real soon, but I'm not sure whether to go with one that has the 9600lb tow package or the Max Tow with 11,100lb rating. I have a 28' Aruba travel trailer with a dry weight of 5100lbs. I am currently towing it with an '03 Hemi Ram. When we head up north for 2 weeks we are loaded up pretty good. 12' aluminum boat on a rack over the bed, 75lb boat motor in the bed, 2 weeks worth of gear in the bed and camper. My guess is that camper and gear combined get me around 6000 to 6500lbs total. The Ram is tow rated at about 7500lbs, and it does well on that flat roads, but when I'm going up the big hills in the U.P., it has to work real hard to get up them, sometimes downshifting twice and slowing to about 50 to 60 miles an hour, depending on the incline angle.

The problems I am having is that there seems to be hardly any used trucks out there with the max tow package on them. It's hard to tell, because when the dealerships advertise them they aren't specifying. Some just say "tow package", but never say the tow rating. Best info they give usually is the axle ratio. So I guess my question is: since the 11,100lb rated trucks look kinda scarce, would a 9600lb rated truck, which looks to be easier to find, be good enough? A bigger camper is definitely NOT in our future; if anything a smaller one eventually since the kids may not camp with us as much now that they are older. My 1970's Detroit Public Schools math tells me that an EB F150 with a 9600lb rating should easily pull my estimated 6500lbs that the Ram is pulling with it's 7500lb rating.

Also not sure if I should get one with 3.73's or the 3.55's. 3.55's seem to be on most of the used trucks I'm seeing. This chart http://www.f150ecoboost.net/forum/17-f150-ecoboost-towing/13-faq-f150-ecoboost-towing-specs.html is pretty confusing, since there are a lot of blanks to try to guess what weight numbers apply.

Would be a lot easier if the dealers would just state in their ads what the tow rating is on the trucks. Wish I could just order a new one with exactly what I want on it, but the new ones go for $$$$, and I'm only able to spring for $$.

You guys know better than me, so any thoughts?

 

[Raiderfan1890]

Personally I would go with a 3.73. You don't really need max tow.

 

[Wayne]

I would look for one with the max tow as you get a few other goodies with that package as well as the 3:73. I am a firm believer in the trailer tow mirrors. They provide a much better view of your trailer and what's behind you. We towed our 27 foot trailer (about the same weight as yours) to Texas this past winter (6125 miles round trip) and, I'm gald we had the max tow pkg. See pic in towing pics.

 

[boostedfx4]

I had the same dilemma, when ordering mine, i wasn't sure if i needed the max tow or not. My sales rep ordered it thinking that i would want it as well, i told him that it wasn't really necessary to have for my uses, however he went to change it back and couldn't, needless to say i got the max tow at no charge.

 

[Ecobullet]

Either would probably be OK, but I sure do like my Max Tow. Not only do you get the increased tow rating and great mirrors, you get an extra 400 pounds of payload capacity, something you can run out of pretty quickly if you haul much stuff in the bed.

 

[Kc311]

It all comes down to funds and availability. Just know that if you don't get the max tow, you're still getting a HELL of a truck that will do more than just its job.

 

[SPPD]

I have the MaxTow and wouldn't tow without it. In addition to all the goodies mentioned above you also get a much beefier hitch and integrated brake controller. The extra payload with MaxTow really helps out as well.

If anything make sure you get the 3.73 rear end gearing. Loaded the way you say it will really help you get rolling and hold gears in the hills.

You will do fine with a non maxtow, but you will do exceptionally well with a MaxTow if you can find one.

What hitch and WD are you using?

SPPD

 

[mbopp]

A SCREW loaded up with a boat, motor, and 2 weeks worth of gear gets heavy quicker than you think. You won't lack power but you'll run out of payload. I'd be looking for 3.73 gears and 7700# GVW which should get you a payload of 1800# or so.
My SCAB has the standard tow package. But I'm pulling a 4700# (empty) TT and it's my wife and I. I didn't want the elephant tow mirrors since this is my daily driver and I have to park in a city parking garage.

 

[3Stratman]

I have the MaxTow and wouldn't tow without it. In addition to all the goodies mentioned above you also get a much beefier hitch and integrated brake controller. The extra payload with MaxTow really helps out as well.

If anything make sure you get the 3.73 rear end gearing. Loaded the way you say it will really help you get rolling and hold gears in the hills.

You will do fine with a non maxtow, but you will do exceptionally well with a MaxTow if you can find one.

What hitch and WD are you using?

SPPD

The hitch is the typical Reese style with the 2 L-shaped bars with the chain on the ends.

 

[Eco12]

I would not think twice about a regular tow package & 3.55's. I have not towed anything with mine yet but my Uncle has one just like it. 2012 XLT, 2WD, 3.55's, regular tow package, rated at 9800 lbs.& it came with the brake controller. He tows a 31', 8600 lb. travel trailer with his & he says it does it with ease. He bought aftermarket tow mirrors for his that looks just like the factory tow mirrors. I think he paid $225 for them. It is also fairly easy to add the factory brake controller if the truck you find don't have it. If your buying pre owned it's going to be hard to find the max tow but the ones with the regular tow package & 3.55's are lot more common.