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Ok, after reading some of the suggestions in a couple of posts I decided to tear into my truck. This will be a long post because I will be explaining on how to remove the drivers side turbo and manifold. Here are links to some of the threads where I have seen this issue. Ecoboost turbo chirp - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans and Squealing noise when flooring it. - Page 5 - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans.

I found that the exhaust manifold gasket was blown and the exhaust manifold was warped.

So, I started the job by removing the drivers side tire and the inner fender well. The inner fender well takes 4 bolts and a few plastic clips. I used needle nose to push the clips through for the harness that was mounted on the top side of the inner well..

The next job was to zip tie all of the wires up out of my way so I could work. I removed the connectors and vacuum lines from the turbo. I then removed the stock cai and the pipes going to the turbo. Then I removed the nut for the plunger rod on the wastegate. Be sure you do not move the top nut as that is your adjustment nut. I just put the bottom nut back on and snugged it to lock them in place. I then removed the 3 bolts that hold the wastegate to the turbo.

I had to make a wrench to fit the nut for the coolant line right on top of the turbo. If you are careful you can use an o-ring pick to remove the keeper and the line will just pop out of the connector. If you cant, I used the closed end of a 3/4" 6 point wrench and just notched the left side of it so the line would slip through the notch.

Next you can disconnect your down pipe and get it out of the way if possible. Then, also from the bottom side, there are 2 bolts holding the oil feed to the bottom of the turbo, they take a torx socket, I don't remember the size. Remove those 2 bolts. There will also be a bolt holding the turbo to the block, it is just above the oil feed, remove it from the bottom next.

Next, there is the coolant in feed line. Follow it up to where it bolts to the block. There is a bracket coming off of the line, remove the bolt holding it in (another torx). After that, remove the 3 torx bolts holding the turbo to the manifold. When you do that, give the coolant in feed line a little wiggle and it should pull out. You should be able to remove the turbo then.

After that I would give the exhaust manifold studs a good coating of pb blaster and let it sit. Then remove them with a ratchet or impact.

I decided to replace the manifold and gasket before I ever pulled it off because you might as well replace the manifold while you are in there as they are only $60 or so. I cleaned the head up next.

I did not do this but I think it would have been easier If I had, next you need to take the nuts off of the exhaust studs and put the studs in the head. This allows you to slide the gasket on and it will hold it in place for you. Then put your manifold back on. I used a cross torque pattern to tighten the nuts down which I feel is very necessary to compress the gasket correctly.

After that you can put the turbo back in. I also replaced the gasket between the turbo and the manifold ($9). It is a bit aggravating to get the turbo back in place with the coolant line still attached but believe me, it is easier than trying to get the line back connected to the turbo once its in place. You should be able to align the coolant tube with the connector in the block easily. Put the 3 bolts in the turbo flange and start easing it into place.

Once you get it close you should be able to push the coolant tube all the way back into the connector in the block and put the bolt back in the bracket. You will need to make a few rounds on the bolts on the turbo flange to make sure you compress the gasket. After that it should be pretty self explanatory.

I just wanted to give a first hand opinion on the order things could be done to make it easier.

Here are the pics of my manifold and gasket. The design is terrible on the manifolds and it is easy to see why they blow out and warp because they have NO support over a very large area.







 

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Thanks for the detailed writeup on the problem and solution. This was exactly what I needed. I thought maybe my turbo was blown but this was indeed the problem.
 

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Thanks for the awesome write up! I had the same issue with the "squealing" noise. Replacing the exhaust manifold solved my issue as well! I also bought a 1 month subscription to the service manual through Helms. I replaced manifold, manifold gasket, oil supply gasket, turbo to manifold gasket, all new studs and nuts. Grand total for the job including the subscription to the service manual was less than $150.00. It wasn't a fun or easy job but I tackled it in my driveway in about 7hrs. My dealership quoted me $1,400.00 for a new TURBO Since I am out of warranty and they were clueless as to what was causing the problem. I'm considering taking the warped manifold to the dealership and throwing it on the counter "here is your $1,400.00 turbo!!!"
 

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OP, can you confirm different part numbers for manifold and gasket (updates) or are they listed as the same?

Your manifolds have different numbers on them, new one ends in 4 and old one ends in 2.

Hopefully this is updated on 13/14's. I would not fix this if it happens.
 

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Did any of you catch a video of the sound? I've heard valve cover leaks before, but would never have put a turbo squeal noise to it.
 

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Did any of you catch a video of the sound? I've heard valve cover leaks before, but would never have put a turbo squeal noise to it.
There's two different videos in his links. His video you can hear it a bit, the other guy not really.
 

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Subscribe. I'm having the same issue..
 

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Yes, I noticed my truck is starting to have this "squeal" just when you start it up and accelerate about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle.
 

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Subscribe. I'm having the same issue..
Yes, I noticed my truck is starting to have this "squeal" just when you start it up and accelerate about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle.
Hey, folks!

Don't forget you can always get your local Ford Dealership to check out the squeal you're hearing. Come back and tell us how things go; I'm here if you need me to step in and assist. How many miles are on your trucks?

Crystal
 

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Hey, folks! Don't forget you can always get your local Ford Dealership to check out the squeal you're hearing. Come back and tell us how things go; I'm here if you need me to step in and assist. How many miles are on your trucks? Crystal
I'm a Ford guy for life!!! But I gave up on dealerships... Sorry.

103k miles

-58's, Wagner, Solo, aFe, Livewire, LET Tuned!
 

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That was it. Truck is fixed!!!!!

THANK YOU LET!

-58's, Wagner, Solo, aFe, Livewire, LET Tuned!
 

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Side view of the manifold showing that it's warped.

-58's, Wagner, Solo, aFe, Livewire, LET Tuned!
 

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kFirm, did you replace the manifold as well as the gasket.

And was it just the driver's side, passenger side or do you plan to do both?
 

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When my 2013 is cold started it has a phh,phhh,phhh, when I let it warm up a bit it goes away. Now I always assumed that it was downpipe connection. It could be the manifold gasket starting to let go. I will try and crawl underhood and investigate. Excellent write up.To Op. Mine is also driver's side.
 

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When my 2013 is cold started it has a phh,phhh,phhh, when I let it warm up a bit it goes away. Now I always assumed that it was downpipe connection. It could be the manifold gasket starting to let go. I will try and crawl underhood and investigate. Excellent write up.To Op. Mine is also driver's side.
I was hoping to find a video of the sound, but I could not.

The sound I am getting occurs more when the vehicle has been driven and stopped/rested for a short time (say I quickly went into a store to pick something up). Then when I have a load (especially A/C ON) and if I am accelerating around 1/2 throttle (not light but not WOT) - especially in 2nd or 3rd gear with a load, I hear a squealing noise than sounds like a demented cricket under the hood of my truck on the driver's side. After I have driven around for around 10-15 minutes, the sounds is not noticeable (yet) ... but I am sure it is just going to get worse as time goes on.

Initially I thought it might be something with the A/C ... but I can also get the sound with the A/C Off ... if I push a little harder on the accelerator in 2nd or 3rd around 1,500-2,500 rpm.

The reason I suspect 2nd or 3rd, the transmission upshifts from 1st extremely quickly ... and once in 4th, the wind/road noise may be drowning out the sound.

My only thought about "new OEM exhaust manifolds", will they just warp again? I notice Full-Race has some tubular steel exhaust manifolds but I do not know if they bolt up exactly like the OEM exhaust manifold.
 

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kFirm, did you replace the manifold as well as the gasket. And was it just the driver's side, passenger side or do you plan to do both?
Replaced both manifold and gasket. Driver side only.

-58's, Wagner, Solo, aFe, Livewire, LET Tuned, 2" Pro Comp, JL Audio!
 

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What kind of noises was it making?
I'm still looking for a video of the exact sound. But mine sounds like a cricket going hard at it, especially with a load on the engine in 2nd or 3rd gear.

It also does it when the engine has been running and then stopped for a bit. I don't notice anything (yet) when the engine is stone cold, but it seems to be getting more noticeable.

If the engine is warmed up and been driving for 15 minutes or more, it doesn't seem to make the noise either (yet).
 

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