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I was thinking, could this warping be due to the hot side of the turbo being too close to the back end of the manifold?
Maybe. I was also wondering if it was caused by two different metals (aluminum head and cast iron manifold) and their different expansion rates.

I don't hear it when my engine is stone cold or at proper operating temp for at least 15 minutes. It's most noticeable after the truck has been sitting for a few hours, I start it and I give it more than 1/3 throttle at a start (or low speed). It probably is initially the gasket.

Unfortunately, from various searches on the Internet, it seems this is fairly common on other later Ford engines - 5.4 most notable. Maybe it has something to do with Ford's quality control on cast iron exhaust manifolds.

I checked around for aftermarket tubular exhaust manifolds (Full Race) but their manifolds are designed to relocate bigger turbos, require their special Full-Race DP (not their stock replacement), and need their CAC. Full Race does not currently have a stock replacement tubular exhaust manifold.

I am giving this serious thought as I hate to go through the "time & expense" to replace the stock cast iron exhaust manifolds only to have them "fail again" in the future.
 

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Well, it was definitely a warped exhaust manifold on the driver's side.

Took it to the dealership last week, had a technician come outside (I was going to take it for a test drive) ... he listened for two seconds when I started it, and he said "Yup, that's a warped manifold. (I had left it over night at the dealership so he could hear the manifold when it was stone cold ... once it warmed up ... it "tightened up").

Technician said there was a "design issue" and a hold (that is in the gasket) was never put in the exhaust manifold (he didn't say why). But he said they've done a number of them now. So it's a common problem.

If anyone hears a funny "squealing sound" (like a cricket or slipping fan belt) coming from their engine, listen carefully in the morning before you start your vehicle to both sides. If you hear an loud ticking sound more on one side than the other, it's your exhaust manifold going.

I was still under warranty and the dealership was very helpful in fixing.
 

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...I was still under warranty and the dealership was very helpful in fixing.
That's what I like to hear, Grim Reaper! I'll document your feedback so the dealer will know they did a great job. PM me your full name, best daytime phone number, dealer info, and any specifics about your experience that you'd like me to include. Leave the rest to me.

Crystal
 

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Crystal, I plan to do better than that ... I plan to bring the Service People two dozen donuts the next time I bring my truck in for an oil change (which should be due in two months).

I have found the "little acts of gratitude" really make people feel appreciated. And, makes them want to help you even more the next time they see you.

It's the people after all that make a Company great.
 

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PS: Ford (and yes, this is my first Ford) and my dealership definitely took care of me ... and doing a great job of making me a repeat customer.
 

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Crystal, I plan to do better than that ... I plan to bring the Service People two dozen donuts the next time I bring my truck in for an oil change (which should be due in two months).

I have found the "little acts of gratitude" really make people feel appreciated. And, makes them want to help you even more the next time they see you.

It's the people after all that make a Company great.
Wow, Grim Reaper; I'm sure they'll love what you have in store for them. Thanks for taking good care of your techs! :)

Crystal
 

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So I searched for a while to determine that the noise my truck was making was in fact a warped manifold. Took it in to the dealer last weekend to have it checked while it was still under the extended power train warranty. Told them I was 99% sure it was the manifold but to look at the turbo just in case. They called me and said it was the turbo and that they were ordering a new one. Next day they install the turbo and then call me and say they are chasing a noise that they think is coming from the new turbo? The noise was the same noise it was making when I dropped it off smh. The next day (yesterday) they call to tell me that it is the exhaust manifold and that the 1 time use bolts that hold the manifold on are on backorder and that it'll be next week before they can get the parts in. So instead of listening to me and checking the manifold first, they replace a perfectly fine turbo, which i'm fine with. Just wish they had established that it was the manifold first like I suggested. Fortunately they were able to get to it pretty fast because the last time I had to drop my truck off to get warranty work done, it took them 3 weeks to get my truck back to me. I was able to pick it up yesterday so that I could have it for this weekend and be able to use it.
 

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Thanks for the write up OP, I'm about to do mine, when you did it did you replace all the studs or just reuse them and retorque them?
 

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Looks like i'm up for needing a warped exhaust manifold replaced. The "demented cricket" sound is what i'd call it and it is mostly noticeable just after a cold start, but even after being at temp. there is loss of power.

I've not see in this thread the part numbers needed for driver side / passenger side manifold and the related gasket and bolts required. Anyone!?!

Also, with this being my daily driver, what is the concern for harming the truck more if driven for a couple weeks like this? Driving it like granny for the moment! Feels like a NA 5.0 truck... ugh!
 

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Looks like i'm up for needing a warped exhaust manifold replaced. The "demented cricket" sound is what i'd call it and it is mostly noticeable just after a cold start, but even after being at temp. there is loss of power.

I've not see in this thread the part numbers needed for driver side / passenger side manifold and the related gasket and bolts required. Anyone!?!

Also, with this being my daily driver, what is the concern for harming the truck more if driven for a couple weeks like this? Driving it like granny for the moment! Feels like a NA 5.0 truck... ugh!
You will need the following part numbers for gaskets / hardware to install a set of manifolds.

ALL APPLICATIONS
1x BL3Z-9448-C 2011+ DS F150 3.5L Manifold Gasket (L / DS)
1x DK4Z-9448-A 2011+ PS F150 3.5L Manifold Gasket (R / PS)
2x BL3Z-6N652-B 2011+ F150 3.5L Turbo Oil Drain Gasket
2x BL3Z-9450-A 2011+ F150 3.5L DownPipe Gasket (Not required unless separated)
6x W715673-S900 2011+ Turbo Mounting Bolt F150 3.5L
4x W716667-S900 2011+ Downpipe Stud F150 3.5L (Recommended)
4x W520514-S440 2011+ Downpipe Nut F150 3.5L
4x BC3Z-6A968-C 2011+ Ford Jiffy-Tite Coolant Fitting (Highly Recommended)

16x W712244-S300 Manifold Stud
16x W701706-S440 Manifold Nut

-Motorcraft Metal Surface Prep ZC-31-A (Or Equivalent)
-High Temperature Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant (XL-2) (Or Equivalent)
IMPORTANT NOTE: We highly recommend replacement of the Jiffy-Tite connectors for the coolant connections and having a 3/8 inch Jiffy-Tite quick disconnect tool, such as a Snap-on® LDTSP4 or equivalent.


2011-2012 F150 REQUIREMENTS
1x BL3Z-9450-C 2011-12 F150 3.5L Turbo Turbine Gasket (L / DS)
1x BL3Z-9450-B 2011-12 F150 3.5L Turbo Turbine Gasket (R / PS)

2013-2016 F150 REQUIREMENTS
1x CL3Z-9450-B 2013-17+ F150 3.5L Turbo Turbine Gasket (L / DS)
1x CL3Z-9450-A 2013-17+ F150 3.5L Turbo Turbine Gasket (R / PS)

OEM MANIFOLDS
If you wish to install OEM manifolds and risk having warping issues again the part numbers are BL3Z-9430-B & BL3Z-9431-B. However we offer a great aftermarket manifold for the F150 EcoBoost 3.5L which also will give a increase in HP & Torque while eliminating warping concerns.


Our performance manifolds have the following advantages in relation to warping OEM manifolds.

- Thick wall design, with increased wall thickness in optimal locations.
- We use a HiSil Steel which is a approximately 30% Stronger Material, and far more resistant to heat. This is primarily used for Turbine Housings for its high temperature rating.
- Thicker rib to the rear stud increasing rigidity to this area.
- We increased The manifold flange thickness at the bosses where we could from .4425" to .5000" this gives the studs a 13% larger stretch area, this means less stress on the stud doing the same work.
- Many other performance oriented improvements


Let me know if you have any questions regarding these.



Thank you,

Andrew C - CR Performance Engineering
 

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Anyone know the socket size needed for jiffy-tite fittings on the engine block that run coolant to the turbo? I'm hung up not being able to reuse the old ones. Lines will not go back in, plus I've been told they will leak if reused. Ones on the Turbos are 19'mm, and that's not working.
 

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21mm socket for the quick connect fittings on the engine block. If you ever have work done on the transmission where they have to pull it, make sure you have them replace the coolant lines and fittings on the back of the cylinder blocks running to the turbos, cause they are not reachable unless you have tiny elf hands...
 

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You will need the following part numbers for gaskets / hardware to install a set of manifolds.

ALL APPLICATIONS
1x BL3Z-9448-C 2011+ DS F150 3.5L Manifold Gasket (L / DS)
1x DK4Z-9448-A 2011+ PS F150 3.5L Manifold Gasket (R / PS)
2x BL3Z-6N652-B 2011+ F150 3.5L Turbo Oil Drain Gasket
2x BL3Z-9450-A 2011+ F150 3.5L DownPipe Gasket (Not required unless separated)
6x W715673-S900 2011+ Turbo Mounting Bolt F150 3.5L
4x W716667-S900 2011+ Downpipe Stud F150 3.5L (Recommended)
4x W520514-S440 2011+ Downpipe Nut F150 3.5L
4x BC3Z-6A968-C 2011+ Ford Jiffy-Tite Coolant Fitting (Highly Recommended)

-Motorcraft Metal Surface Prep ZC-31-A (Or Equivalent)
-High Temperature Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant (XL-2) (Or Equivalent)
IMPORTANT NOTE: We highly recommend replacement of the Jiffy-Tite connectors for the coolant connections and having a 3/8 inch Jiffy-Tite quick disconnect tool, such as a Snap-on® LDTSP4 or equivalent.


2011-2012 F150 REQUIREMENTS
1x BL3Z-9450-C 2011-12 F150 3.5L Turbo Turbine Gasket (L / DS)
1x BL3Z-9450-B 2011-12 F150 3.5L Turbo Turbine Gasket (R / PS)

2013-2016 F150 REQUIREMENTS
1x CL3Z-9450-B 2013-17+ F150 3.5L Turbo Turbine Gasket (L / DS)
1x CL3Z-9450-A 2013-17+ F150 3.5L Turbo Turbine Gasket (R / PS)

OEM MANIFOLDS
If you wish to install OEM manifolds and risk having warping issues again the part numbers are BL3Z-9430-B & BL3Z-9431-B. However we offer a great aftermarket manifold for the F150 EcoBoost 3.5L which also will give a increase in HP & Torque while eliminating warping concerns.


Our performance manifolds have the following advantages in relation to warping OEM manifolds.

- Thick wall design, with increased wall thickness in optimal locations.
- We use a HiSil Steel which is a approximately 30% Stronger Material, and far more resistant to heat. This is primarily used for Turbine Housings for its high temperature rating.
- Thicker rib to the rear stud increasing rigidity to this area.
- We increased The manifold flange thickness at the bosses where we could from .4425" to .5000" this gives the studs a 13% larger stretch area, this means less stress on the stud doing the same work.
- Many other performance oriented improvements


Let me know if you have any questions regarding these.



Thank you,

Andrew C - CR Performance Engineering

These manifolds seems like a pretty good deal. Do they come with any kind of warranty against warping? The main reason I would buy these from you is to prevent future warping. Also, is the included hardware stock hardware, or upgraded in some way? I believe the tiny exhaust manifold studs don't help the warping situation.

Thanks!
 

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These manifolds seems like a pretty good deal. Do they come with any kind of warranty against warping? The main reason I would buy these from you is to prevent future warping. Also, is the included hardware stock hardware, or upgraded in some way? I believe the tiny exhaust manifold studs don't help the warping situation.

Thanks!

We provide a 1 year warranty on any defects affecting operation. This would include any warping issues.

-We use a HiSil Steel which is a approximately 30% Stronger Material, and far more resistant to heat. This is primarily used for Turbine Housings for its high temperature rating. We also increased wall thickness in optimal locations, lastly you will notice we also added a thicker rib to the rear stud increasing rigidity to this area.

-We also increased The manifold flange thickness at the bosses where we could from .4425" to .5000" this gives the studs a 13% larger stretch area, this means less stress on the stud doing the same work.

We are confident this design provides a substantial improvement for any warping concerns over OEM.


The hardware provided with our manifold set is as follows

16x W712244-S300 (Genuine OEM Ford Manifold Stud direct from Ford)
(W712244S300) (W701732-S)

16x W701706-S440 (High Quality Aftermarket Replacement, Grade 10 Locking Nut, equivalent to OEM)
(W701706S440)

The OEM Hardware should be up to the task as the same sized studs are used in diesel applications with Ford, in 2 Studs per port applications. These have far higher demands, such as 80 PSI back pressure under exhaust breaking and high EGTs. But if people are seeing broken studs please let me know and we can look into it.

If you are interested in more details feel free to check the thread regarding these manifolds in our Vendor Section. Any more questions? Please don't hesitate to ask.


Thank you,




Andrew C @ CR Performance Engineering
 

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Found this thread and write up super helpful. Adding a couple items that I had a hard time locating or that I found helpful.

Torque Specs
Manifold Studs 106 lb/inch
Manifold Nuts two stage tightening process see image pasted below
First stage 168 lbs/inch
Second Stage 18 lb/ft

Turbo to manifold- 24 lb/ft
Downpipe to manifold- 35 lb/ft.

Manifold Torque Specs.jpg

I found this ratchet to be helpful on the lower turbo engine mount bolt (13MM) and the downpipe bolts (15MM). I still had to pull the starter to get to this bolt and the jiffy connection.
Rachet.jpg

My broken stud on the passenger side.
Broken Stud Bolt.jpg

New Manifold Installed
New Manifold.jpg
[SUB][/SUB]
 

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ECOBOOST Exhaust Chirp

Hey, folks!

Don't forget you can always get your local Ford Dealership to check out the squeal you're hearing. Come back and tell us how things go; I'm here if you need me to step in and assist. How many miles are on your trucks?

Crystal

Crystal,

Not sure if you'll get this, but I am having the same issues and I took mine to Marcotte Ford in Holyoke, MA and they told me it was a water pump. I was disappointed because I could feel the exhaust leak, see the discoloration it is causing and clearly hear it from the drivers side rear of the engine compartment. I replaced the water pump on my own as I am well capable of doing so. I took it back again and was told again it is my water pump. I am looking for help in getting this issue resolved as it is affecting the overall performance of the truck in normal daily driving and when I trailer tow. I'm at 73,000 on the odometer and I know the emissions portion of the truck is warrantied by Ford up to 80,000. I am suspicious that Marcotte was looking to push me out until I was over the mileage so that they could have me pay for the repair myself VS file a warranty claim. I know a few other people that have gone here and after sharing my story with them provided a similar story in return.

Please help me if possible.

Jack Arcouette
 

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Don't think she comes around these parts no more...
 
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