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Discussion Starter #1
I'm going to need help from my fellow members. I was on the lake this weekend and hit a spot of slush and gunned it to get out and ended up throwing the rod through the block. Need some very detailed help on how to remove the engine and swap it out with a crate motor. Dealer wants 12-13 grand to replace it, up front. I can't spend that right now so looks like I'm doing it on my own. Anyone else take one out? Truck had 140k on it and had issues with gaining oil, misfires,etc when I bought it. But ran great, up to 20 mpg until it blew it's load all over the engine bay. Any help or link to a manual or video would be much appreciated. Also any links to a rebuilt or crate motor online and what else is need for gaskets, etc to do the job or special tools.
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Wow, that's heartbreaking. Their are a few members here that will chime in. Again that sucks, sorry that happened to you.

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Discussion Starter #4
**** man, sorry to hear that. I think a motor swap would be easy, just time consuming. I would buy a service manual and have at it. Curious, did you have a tune on it? any other mods ?
All I really had is a afe cold air intake, catch can, and a 5 star tune. I did however replace the fuel injectors, ignition coils, spark plugs, and high pressure fuel pump to remove the growing oil problem.
 

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Pulling the motor is challenging. Do you have access to a lift? Are you going to reuse turbos or have rebuilt?
Best option is to pull the cab. Then pull the motor, leave trans in place. Take lots of photos of vacuum lines, water lines, oil lines, wiring. It can be tricky.

Crate motor should be around 7k. Dealers here are around 10-11k for the swap.
 

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That's the first 5 Star I've seen go. Which tune?
 

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Truck did have over 140k on her, that's a pretty decent run.

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All I really had is a afe cold air intake, catch can, and a 5 star tune. I did however replace the fuel injectors, ignition coils, spark plugs, and high pressure fuel pump to remove the growing oil problem.
What was the mileage at when you first noticed the oil dilution problem? Was the oil dilution fixed with the new injectors and HPFP? What was your oil change schedule? I'm sorry his happened to you. This is becoming common it seems and really has me concerned.
 

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Truck did have over 140k on her, that's a pretty decent run.

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Not in my opinion.
Had a gen 1 lightning with 400kplus on it when trans went and I rebuilt both.
Seen many G2 Ls with 100k plus still going.

The ecoboost should be way more durable than 140k even if ran hard.




I Live For Myself and I Answer to No One.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
jmercil....did you drill the weep hole before this happened?

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I didn't drill that out. I did take the cac out and drain it when I bought it. I bought it with 125k. There was oil in the cac at that point. Then I put in the catch can.
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Discussion Starter #16
What was the mileage at when you first noticed the oil dilution problem? Was the oil dilution fixed with the new injectors and HPFP? What was your oil change schedule? I'm sorry his happened to you. This is becoming common it seems and really has me concerned.
I feel like I fixed it. The black stone reports I got back had no more than 2% dilution after the new injectors and hpfp.
 

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drilling the hole is very important:(
While I agree that the hole in the CAC is important, this truck had a catch can and the CAC was cleaned. I suspect that oil dilution did some prior damage to bearing tolerances even though the problem was addressed by replacing injectors and HPFP. I’ve read several articles on the Ecoboost internals and am finding that while the motor is said to have forged rods, they are actually forged powdered metal rods, not the same in my mind as a forged rod as old hot rodders know them. I think this may be a weak link in these motors but just a guess. Let’s face it, there are a lot of thrown rods occurring with this motor. Now you can say it’s 1 in 5000 motors doing this or whatever numbers you want to pull out of the air but if you search for thrown rods on say a Dodge Hemi or Toyota Tundra you certainly don’t get as many hits. I suspect Ford knows exactly what is causing this and I say the torture test videos released to the public were BS.
 

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While I agree that the hole in the CAC is important, this truck had a catch can and the CAC was cleaned. I suspect that oil dilution did some prior damage to bearing tolerances even though the problem was addressed by replacing injectors and HPFP. I’ve read several articles on the Ecoboost internals and am finding that while the motor is said to have forged rods, they are actually forged powdered metal rods, not the same in my mind as a forged rod as old hot rodders know them. I think this may be a weak link in these motors but just a guess. Let’s face it, there are a lot of thrown rods occurring with this motor. Now you can say it’s 1 in 5000 motors doing this or whatever numbers you want to pull out of the air but if you search for thrown rods on say a Dodge Hemi or Toyota Tundra you certainly don’t get as many hits. I suspect Ford knows exactly what is causing this and I say the torture test videos released to the public were BS.
Are they turbocharged? Just asking:/:/
 
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