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Discussion Starter #1
All,

First off thanks for a solid forum here. Haven't posted a lot and I have been doing more lurking than writing but I have a bit of an issue:

I have a 13 Eco with no engine mods and just shy of 36k miles. Upon stopping I get a rough idle, almost a shudder, for a little bit and then it goes away. It seems almost as if the engine is bogging down on stopping and then picks the rpm back up and it goes away. Sometimes it's worse than others but it's usually always there. It does it once the engine is warmed up, this isn't a cold-start rough idle. It does not throw a CEL. Shifting into neutral seems to diminish the rough idle by 80% or so.

I took it into my local dealer and they took a look at it. This is a solid mx dept. and they are knowledgable and usually helpful. They kept the truck for over a week and 1) they felt the rough idle right away and 2) ran a ton of tests on it that Ford engineering directed. They came away with no cause or solution for the issue. Ford had them compare to a new model as well (yep, it idled rougher than a new model). Since nothing was "out of spec per throwing a CEL or other failed test" Ford said of course: it's normal. Dealer and I both agree it's not normal, but there's nothing either of us can do.

Things I have done myself: check spark plug gap (in spec), bought new spark plugs, checked gap, reinstalled, double check all connections, check air filter. No fix.

Thoughts on what this could be? Any ideas on a solution? Most searches turn up a cold weather rough idle or a constant rough idle which it isn't.

Thanks guys!
 

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Do a KAM reset and go through the idle re-learn process.
 

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I had this going on, plus a really heavy thunk about 30 seconds after stopping at a light. Dealer re-flashed the trans and have never seen the issue since (about a year and a half)
 

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Either unhook the battery for 30+ minutes and touch positive to negeative wire terminals together or turn head lights on after battery is disconnected to remove residual energy.
 

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To be more specific, unhook the ground cable from the battery (cover the terminal with a rag or something to make sure the nothing touches it) and then jumper from that cable to the positive terminal for a few minutes. DO NOT touch the two battery terminals together. Ford Makuloco has a good video here:
 

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Yes that is a better explanation haha. Not the battery but the wiring itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Do a KAM reset and go through the idle re-learn process.
Winchested - Thanks for the help. I did this and it has cleaned up the idle significantly. Still a little rough on occasion but big improvement and doesn't feel like the truck is going to stall. Does the idle learn keep learning and if so for how long, or indefinitely? And what might have caused this to drop so low in the first place?

Thanks guys!
 

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Did you go through the the process.

1) Start and let idle until warm
2)with e brake on and foot on brake put into D and idle for minimum 60 seconds
3)Turn AC/ Heater on Max and redo the 60 seconds again.

And yes it is always re learning, it is adaptive.
 

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^^^ Yes to all the above, although I would also note that you should start the re-learn from a cold start, and let it idle all the way to warm up.
 

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I have the exact same problem. 2013 supercab FX4 145" 53k miles in a year and a half. My Dealer has not found the problem or issue. The computer tells the that I am running fine but the vibration at stop signs and lights is pretty strong. Enough to see it in the mirrors and the passenger seat. I have tried to reset the computer but the vibration will always come back. I usually shift into neutral at stop signs or lights and it goes away.
 

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I have the exact same problem. 2013 supercab FX4 145" 53k miles in a year and a half. My Dealer has not found the problem or issue. The computer tells the that I am running fine but the vibration at stop signs and lights is pretty strong. Enough to see it in the mirrors and the passenger seat. I have tried to reset the computer but the vibration will always come back. I usually shift into neutral at stop signs or lights and it goes away.
When were you last at the dealer for this, JeffCorbett? It sounds like it's time to get your regional customer service manager involved for additional assistance. Please send me a private message with your full name, VIN, servicing dealership, and best daytime contact number.

Brittany
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Looks like the original problem is back and matches up exactly with Jeff's. A reset made the rough idle diminish, but never go away. Now it's back to exactly how it was after a long trip.

My concern now is: great, so resetting the computer essentially gets the computer to normalize this briefly, but what is actually causing the rough idle in the first place and continuing to do so after a computer reset?

Brittany - can I do the same?
 

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Looks like the original problem is back. A reset made the rough idle diminish, but never go away. Now it's back to exactly how it was after a long trip.

Brittany - can I do the same?
Dangit! I just unhooked my battery cables no more than 10 minutes ago hoping for a fix. Guess its just a band-aid? 98k on my 11'.
 

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could it be a coil or plug at idle? Usually they are more apparent at WOT but that is another possibility.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
This was going on before I changed plugs (on my own, because of course the dealer won't do it unless the computer tells them to) and continues after. As for a coil, sure it could be a coil, but again, hard for me to check.

Normal driveability seems fine, truck has normal acceleration. MPG seems to have markedly gone down but it'd be hard to attribute that to anything other than a brush guard, high winds, or having to drive 75 to not get run over by oil field truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Check to see where your timing is at idle.
I asked the dealer about checking timing - I even asked them how much it would be for them to scope the intake valves. IRT the timing "Ford did not direct them to check it" and IRT the valves they said sure they could, but even if they found them dirty they would have to find a reason WHY they became dirty and how it would affect the truck for them to get Ford to warranty anything.
 

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Find a different dealership, sounds like they are stringing you along.
 
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