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I have been reading about Ecoboost's running hot since I bought my truck over a year ago, I have personally experienced this problem. What I have experienced and read doesn't jive with a standard overheating problem, (engine getting hot as hell going up a hill and cooling back to normal once you crest the hill in a very short time).
What this tells me from years of dealing with overheating problem is that the real problem is the turbos dumping super heated water back into the block and then the water pump can't get it out of the block fast enough or the water capacity of the block is to small to absorb the excess heat.
It looks to me like a higher volume water pump an/or a thermostat system on the hot water exhaust side of the turbo that would direct water directly back to the radiator when super heated would get rid of this problem.

When you crest a hill and the engine is hot as hell and it cools back off in a 1/4 mile that tells me there is nothing wrong with the radiator,cooling fan part of the cooling system, there is plenty of normal temperature water in front of the engine, it's just the water in the block that is overheated.

I don't see any remedy for this and I can't believe Ford hasn't figured this out yet.

If you think I'm nuts tell me so but I've read about people trying larger radiators and cooler thermostats and different fans and non of those work.
 

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I don’t know if you’re nuts or not, but my ‘13 Platinum Screw 4x4 with Max Tow and 3.73 EL rear has never overheated and that includes towing our 7,000 lb travel trailer over Monarch Pass (11,200’) and other passes in Colorado and other states out West. Now I don’t see how fast I can make it tow when going up long steep grades though.


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What's considered hot? I'll admit I don't tow in super high elevations, but where we go we hit the occasional 7% grades that go for a few miles. My temps never reached 227 or higher, and it only went that high passing a semi and I punched it a bit. I'm only pulling a 6200lb trailer.
 

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Buy a 170° Thermostat and flush your coolant...you won't have that issue again.

My old truck had one and I would rod the **** out of it and would never get over 200°. Towing my boat (albeit not in the mountains) I would never see over 200°
 

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Those who do not have this issue just don't understand the scenario well.

I think your idea has a lot of merit. I recently installed the FR Gen2 radiator and it seems to help out a fair amount. There is however what I consider a "tipping point", for me somewhere at about 90-95 degrees, under load, on long grades where nothing seems to help other than slowing down and down shifting. Your proposed idea makes sense, because what I am essentially doing is increasing RPM = faster water pump speed = increased removal of heat from the block. (At the same time staying out of boost and stopping the runaway heat from them).

A while back I suggested someone to make a different sized water pump pulley. This would increase it's speed throughout it's operating range.

If what you say is true, plumb the turbo straight back to the radiator and try this. Any takers?

Here's a question for the engine builders, when upgrading the turbos do you use the stock turbo cooling setup? If not, what do you do to re-route these lines?
 

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Those who do not have this issue just don't understand the scenario well.

I think your idea has a lot of merit. I recently installed the FR Gen2 radiator and it seems to help out a fair amount. There is however what I consider a "tipping point", for me somewhere at about 90-95 degrees, under load, on long grades where nothing seems to help other than slowing down and down shifting. Your proposed idea makes sense, because what I am essentially doing is increasing RPM = faster water pump speed = increased removal of heat from the block. (At the same time staying out of boost and stopping the runaway heat from them).

A while back I suggested someone to make a different sized water pump pulley. This would increase it's speed throughout it's operating range.

If what you say is true, plumb the turbo straight back to the radiator and try this. Any takers?

Here's a question for the engine builders, when upgrading the turbos do you use the stock turbo cooling setup? If not, what do you do to re-route these lines?
Same here. When the ambient temps are below 90F the truck can maintain 230F coolant no problem. Once over 90 it looses control and I'm over 240 quickly. This is on a 6-8% continuous grade.

Since we are talking about coolant. One thing that bugged me when I first saw the ecoboost is how the oil cooler is plumbed in. Mine has a fitting in the coolant line from the water pump to the radiator. The supply and return to the oil cooler come from this fitting. To make water flow to the oil cooler there has to be some kind of restriction in this fitting, or no water would bypass. This seems like it would restrict the main radiator flow.

Typically this would be plumbed in properly from the supply/return side of the water pump. The ecoboost arrangement looks a bit half-assed...

Regarding the turbos, I'm not sure how much heat they really put into the system vs how much the engine is putting in. You are only cooling the turbo center section so it's just the heat that's being transferred from the turbine housing into the center section. It obviously goes up with higher EGT's but it's not like we are trying to cool the full stream of exhaust gases.
 

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weird, how some have the issue and some don't. Mine does well towing in the 100 degree days and at elevation, all monitored by the SCT. I think the intake helps control the heat some, and the grill I installed allows for max air flow. Keeping the trans temps down helps some too...
 

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So I was pulling my 31' travel trailer, over Deadman's Pass in north eastern Oregon and I was reduced to 45 mph in 3rd gear. One thing that I did notice while monitoring temps, its seems what really gets the temps to climb is the amount of load on the motor. Once it gets locked in boost with a ton of load on it, the cat sensors were reading at damn near 900 Fahrenheit. I wonder if catless down pipes would help move the super heated gases out faster. I run a Banks cold air intake, MBRP 4" catback, Air Lift Suspension, Hellwig sway bar, AEM Meth kit, 9-row Motorcraft tranny cooler, Vent to Atmosphere setup, and a 5STAR 91 octane Tow/Performance Tune with a super aggressive fan curve. The only thing I have that I haven't installed is a 19-Row Setrab Oil cooler with a Improved Racing sandwich plate with thermostatic bypass. One thing that didn't over heat or even come close was the tranny, it stayed at 201 the entire pull. I would say the oil cooler would help keep temps down slightly but I think the probably this truck has is the same problem every water cooled turbo has. I have to say though pulling 11k lbs up 6% for 3-6 miles at 45mph is still impressive, I would have done the oil cooler before my trip but I decided I wouldn't have enough wheel time with the cooler before I took it on a long trip so i'll save it for when I am home again. I bet those turbos could be re-plumbed and I am waiting for a smaller water pump pulley to surface, I would try that out in a heart beat.
 

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The turbos are fed from the block, and returned to the head, around where the junction into the main return line. I doubt that has any effect on your peak operating temps.
 

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another thing to think about is where the thermostat is located. on paper a thermostat on the inlet to the engine seems better than outlet, but im pretty sure every car ive ever worked on that has a inlet thermostat runs hotter than id expect it to. my dad has a 09 gmc with the little 4.8 ls. i steal his truck every now and then to just look things over and maintain what he doesnt. i noticed everywhere you drive it runs around 210. reading from a scantool. tstat on inlet.
i bought a 170 tstat for it and installed it. so after it averaged about 195. thats the norm that i see on inlet thermostats. the thermostat opening temp never correlates to engine operating temp.
it wouldnt take much effort to make these little eco motors have a return thermostat instead of a inlet.
 

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You always want to stay at 45 mph+ once you get below that speed the air flow through intercooler drops as well as radiator air flow. I still need to check if the 2002 lightning water pump pulley is smaller than the on on the ecoboost. It should bolt up would need a shorter belt.
 

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I looked at the stock water pump pulley and it's already very close to the housing. I don't think there's any room to shrink it. Unless you have some OEM pulley meant for this water pump in a different model. Would it be possible to increase another pulley to get faster rotation? I was thinking the harmonic dampener, but now this gets into the engine's engineering a bit too much.

I also replaced my water pump when I did my timing chain. The vanes on the old pump looked fine, but I replaced it anyway. Didn't notice anything floating in the system like that other person with the metal rod. The only thing I did notice when I was in there is the coolant tube coming from the back of the motor had some corrosion on the inside of it. I can imagine anywhere a steel piece is located in the motor is probably corroding little bits of rust deposits. Whether this is "enough" to clog up small cooling passages, I dunno.

I am leaning more and more that the turbos are overworked and dumping excessive heat into the motor as OP postulated. I say this because after a long pull and shutting off the motor, on restart I have seen the engine be hotter, sometimes even tripping an overheat condition just briefly, then the fans cool it back down as part of the startup procedure. This was an oddity to me at first, but now it makes complete sense. This tells me there is some residual heat somewhere in the motor that is being dumped into the cooling system when it's off. I bet those turbos are glowing hot! So one thing on my to-do list is to fix an exhaust leak on my driver's side. When I am in there I will be sure to inspect the turbo coolant line for any obstruction.

I know others have mentioned that the heat from a hot turbo isn't really all that much compared to the overall engine heat, but where would this "residual" heat come from when the truck is off? Is that simply the coolant's inability to pull the heat from the block? Man I wish there was an upgrade for the water pump. :mad:
 

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I just towed up to 7k above sea level in Flagstaff from Scottsdale
Ambient temps in the 90's°....truck with the 5* 91 pt/fan tune ran frickin excellent!
A beast!....10.9mpg's with an accident on the way to do some stop and goes.
AC blasting, one hand on the wheel etc-lol
I'm sooo happy with the way the Boost pulls my 9k dry travel palace.
In a month Shawn (454SS) will be assisting me in adding the High Speed Fan Switch Mode
Listen, I'm not sure if this will really help but I've already committed with wiring through the firewall and switch.
Let's just call it Option #2-lol
Option #1 is current.....91pt/ fan tune.
I will tell you Jacob at 5* knows his shi*!
Diesel ....what the hel* for?
This truck is absolutely the best 1/2 ton ypu can buy-period.
Lol.....Keystone Forum is having a hard time digesting this?
I told them....go out and test drive a Boost; hook up a heavy trailer than get back to me......


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PS....been drinking at campsite-lol
Keystone Forum asked if I was a Ford Salesperson?
Pushing the Boost like I do..
All I said was "Test Drive".... figure out the rest.


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I just towed up to 7k above sea level in Flagstaff from Scottsdale
Ambient temps in the 90's°....truck with the 5* 91 pt/fan tune ran frickin excellent!
A beast!....10.9mpg's with an accident on the way to do some stop and goes.
AC blasting, one hand on the wheel etc-lol
I'm sooo happy with the way the Boost pulls my 9k dry travel palace.
In a month Shawn (454SS) will be assisting me in adding the High Speed Fan Switch Mode
Listen, I'm not sure if this will really help but I've already committed with wiring through the firewall and switch.
Let's just call it Option #2-lol
Option #1 is current.....91pt/ fan tune.
I will tell you Jacob at 5* knows his shi*!
Diesel ....what the hel* for?
This truck is absolutely the best 1/2 ton ypu can buy-period.
Lol.....Keystone Forum is having a hard time digesting this?
I told them....go out and test drive a Boost; hook up a heavy trailer than get back to me......
Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
I have to disagree slightly, it does a ok job pulling, but this trucks gen 1 cooling is kind of a **** show. I went from Hagerman Idaho, to Ogden Utah, via I-84 - I-86, then continued on from Ogden Utah to Walcot Wyoming via I-80, then from took Hwy 30 from Walcot to Hwy 34 over Morton Pass to I-25 to Glendo State Park in Wyoming. It was a solid 12 hours driving, I left Idaho at 3:25am and got to my destination around 4:25pm. I must have fueled up 4 times, and was running 5* 91 perf/tow tune with no revisions for about 400-500 miles of the trip when I stopped in Rock Springs WY to go back to my stock tune, I was getting major flutter from the drivers side turbo, due to I am assuming to much boost, I believe the mechanical blow off spring is whooped and can't handle the boost when its in the higher gears with more boost. When I would down shift it would fix the issue. The ambient temps were around 85-92 for the better half of Wyoming. I still have to drive to Montana and then back home to WA, I am hesitant to go back to the 5* for fear of detonation when the computer gets messed up with to much fuel but not enough boost, due it boost bleeding off due to the poor springs. I did request that 5* do a aggressive fan tune but I don't think they did anything to be honest. If you have never taken this route across Wyoming, it is up. hill. the. entire. way. The truck did great but I would have rather been in a 6.7, I have 2 sway controllers, a dialed in weight distro hitch, air lift and Hellwig sway bar and with a slight breeze and passing semis it was pretty sketchy. I did 70-80mph the entire way and was tugging a 31' Heartland Trailrunner, with the tank full and probably tugging 10-12k lbs. If I had a 6.7 its ready to go off the lot and I wouldn't have to worry about ****. Otherwise its the most bad ass half ton pick up on the market, but, its still a half ton.
 

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I have been reading about Ecoboost's running hot since I bought my truck over a year ago, I have personally experienced this problem. What I have experienced and read doesn't jive with a standard overheating problem, (engine getting hot as hell going up a hill and cooling back to normal once you crest the hill in a very short time).
What this tells me from years of dealing with overheating problem is that the real problem is the turbos dumping super heated water back into the block and then the water pump can't get it out of the block fast enough or the water capacity of the block is to small to absorb the excess heat.
It looks to me like a higher volume water pump an/or a thermostat system on the hot water exhaust side of the turbo that would direct water directly back to the radiator when super heated would get rid of this problem.

When you crest a hill and the engine is hot as hell and it cools back off in a 1/4 mile that tells me there is nothing wrong with the radiator,cooling fan part of the cooling system, there is plenty of normal temperature water in front of the engine, it's just the water in the block that is overheated.

I don't see any remedy for this and I can't believe Ford hasn't figured this out yet.

If you think I'm nuts tell me so but I've read about people trying larger radiators and cooler thermostats and different fans and non of those work.
Our resident ecoboost builder had mentioned in another thread that we needed someone to build a better water pump

Buy a 170° Thermostat and flush your coolant...you won't have that issue again.

My old truck had one and I would rod the **** out of it and would never get over 200°. Towing my boat (albeit not in the mountains) I would never see over 200°
The problem with this is my truck will sit at 220 F just towing on flat ground. 170F won’t fix that.

I looked at the stock water pump pulley and it's already very close to the housing. I don't think there's any room to shrink it. Unless you have some OEM pulley meant for this water pump in a different model. Would it be possible to increase another pulley to get faster rotation? I was thinking the harmonic dampener, but now this gets into the engine's engineering a bit too much.

I also replaced my water pump when I did my timing chain. The vanes on the old pump looked fine, but I replaced it anyway. Didn't notice anything floating in the system like that other person with the metal rod. The only thing I did notice when I was in there is the coolant tube coming from the back of the motor had some corrosion on the inside of it. I can imagine anywhere a steel piece is located in the motor is probably corroding little bits of rust deposits. Whether this is "enough" to clog up small cooling passages, I dunno.

I am leaning more and more that the turbos are overworked and dumping excessive heat into the motor as OP postulated. I say this because after a long pull and shutting off the motor, on restart I have seen the engine be hotter, sometimes even tripping an overheat condition just briefly, then the fans cool it back down as part of the startup procedure. This was an oddity to me at first, but now it makes complete sense. This tells me there is some residual heat somewhere in the motor that is being dumped into the cooling system when it's off. I bet those turbos are glowing hot! So one thing on my to-do list is to fix an exhaust leak on my driver's side. When I am in there I will be sure to inspect the turbo coolant line for any obstruction.

I know others have mentioned that the heat from a hot turbo isn't really all that much compared to the overall engine heat, but where would this "residual" heat come from when the truck is off? Is that simply the coolant's inability to pull the heat from the block? Man I wish there was an upgrade for the water pump.
I can’t believe no one could build a billet pulley in like 10 minutes for not too much money. SLP used to sell underdrive harmonic dampers for the LS motors for like $180. A simple pulley for the water pump shouldn’t be more than that.

I bet even a 10% overdrive pulley would do a lot and shouldnt blow anything up. These trucks have a 6k redline but almost never see it. Running a 10% overdrive pulley to 5500 rpm is like running the stock one to 6050.

Maybe I will try to get my hands on a used pump and pulley and see if I can work something up in cad. Find out if it could be overdriven much.

The heat you’re seeing after you stop and turn off the motor is likely from the engine itself but some may be from the turbo. Metal still has some insulating value and the heat transfer coefficient to the coolant is not perfect either. In other words, the ability of the coolant to absorb the heat from the metal is basically helping insulate the metal slightly. This means that most of the engine is hotter than the coolant and will be until you turn it off. At that point you are left with whatever coolant is stuck in the motor to absorb any residual heat.
 

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After tearing into my truck this weekend, I'm really surprised at how puny the oem radiator is.
That's an understatement. The fans leave a lot to be desired too. Don't the parts "feel" like parts from a sedan or a compact car? Hard to imagine these things pull like they do. That's why I went with the FR radiator. Doesn't fix the overheating, but does help a fair amount.
 
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