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My original one was replaced with the water pump, it would run 195. When I did the timing chain,.a non oe one was put in and I was constantly seeing 213. I replaced it within 20k and now it's 188. Apparently the new ones are better?

I'm not saying it's going to cure the issue, it might be worth the $30-40 to see.
Yeah I'll give her a shot after this trip is done. It's a brand new engine also which is really throwing me for a loop considering I've done the radiator, intercooler and transmission cooler replacement therapy. My only other idea is a mister setup as a break the glass type thing.
 

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I have a 170 and a 160 but can't decide which to use. You think it makes that big of a difference? Stock is 180 correct?
Stock is 195. A 180 or 170 will delay it for a small amount of time. Are all 3 of your rubber air deflectors intact? Lower air dam still on? Are the fins on your AC condenser bent and blocking flow?
I really think all 3 cooling mods need to be done to keep it in check (mishi rad, saudi trans cooler, additional oil cooler). The CAC will just allow you to keep in the gas longer without the computer cutting power due to IAT's being too high. There's a few of us that have all 3, or 4 if you include the CAC. Masshole and I are probably the closest on cooling mods. I'm generally lower elevation than him and cooler temps. I can push my truck HARD and not overheat. I believe his runs about like mine, but maybe a little warmer in the higher temps and higher elevation.
 

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I have a 170 and a 160 but can't decide which to use. You think it makes that big of a difference? Stock is 180 correct?
it should ne around 192. The 5.0 thermostat is 180 and that would be my recommendation. 170 and 160 just sound too cold for a daily driver.
 

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it should ne around 192. The 5.0 thermostat is 180 and that would be my recommendation. 170 and 160 just sound too cold for a daily driver.
Agreed. If I wasn't lazy I'd switch my 170 out for the 180.
 
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Lower air dam is not on. Not sure what rubber deflectors you're talking about
on either side of the radiator.

im pretty sure the air dam is just as much for cooling as mpg’s. They put the giant air dams on F550’s that aren’t even rated for mpg.
 

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on either side of the radiator.

im pretty sure the air dam is just as much for cooling as mpg’s. They put the giant air dams on F550’s that aren’t even rated for mpg.
It actually makes sense if you think about it. The truck is already a brick with huge frontal area. So if you can block off all alternative routes for that air to escape but the actual cooling stack is fundamental.

Gaps around the cooling stack are probably very influential.

On my current truck it's easy to see the efforts made to seal any bleeding off air entering the grill. The frame around the louvers is definitely a good trap!
 

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18 Plat Screw, FX4, 3.5, 10R80, max tow, stock tune, Mishi CAC no louvers, Mishi rad, 40/60 cool/H2O
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Lower air dam creates a significant low pressure area just behind, which evacuates a lot of hot air from the engine compartment, and pulls more cool air through the stack. I know it’s not “pretty”, but it is very functional for cooling capacity.
 

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The lower air dam and the rubber pieces are pretty essential for moving more air through the stack. On my 13 there's 1 piece on the passenger side, and two on the driver's side.
 
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2019 f150 3.5 ecoboost crew cab 4x4 heavy tow package fx4 6.5' bed highly modified
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Hmm, my 2019 3.5 there was pretty much no difference in temperature with or without air dam, (engine coolant, ait2..) Verified by multiple datalogging sessions .

Maybe it’s different for the first generation, I never did the testing on my old 2013

Now with or without the license plate in the center of intercooler Was a different story.
 

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Hmm, my 2019 3.5 there was pretty much no difference in temperature with or without air dam, (engine coolant, ait2..) Verified by multiple datalogging sessions .

Maybe it’s different for the first generation, I never did the testing on my old 2013

Now with or without the license plate in the center of intercooler Was a different story.
Was that while towing a parachute with the truck getting close to overheating? Not towing you're probably not going to see much of a difference if any because you're not running close to the limits of the system. The air dam won't make it run any cooler, and neither will the rubber pieces. They'll raise the threshold of when the truck will begin to overheat.
 

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Hmm, my 2019 3.5 there was pretty much no difference in temperature with or without air dam, (engine coolant, ait2..) Verified by multiple datalogging sessions .

Maybe it’s different for the first generation, I never did the testing on my old 2013

Now with or without the license plate in the center of intercooler Was a different story.
Probably no difference due to 6” lift! Also, what Gord0 said.
 

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Are those oil coolers or tranny coolers ?
 

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Removing the air dam is a fad that could backfire if ya tow heavy in heat.
 

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2019 f150 3.5 ecoboost crew cab 4x4 heavy tow package fx4 6.5' bed highly modified
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Was that while towing a parachute with the truck getting close to overheating? Not towing you're probably not going to see much of a difference if any because you're not running close to the limits of the system. The air dam won't make it run any cooler, and neither will the rubber pieces. They'll raise the threshold of when the truck will begin to overheat.
With and without, It wasn’t a crazy heavy trailer but it was about 5000 pounds.
it was also here in the West Coast mountains in the summer some 100° temperatures

Probably no difference due to 6” lift! Also, what Gord0 said.
it was before I lifted my truck

Removing the air dam is a fad that could backfire if ya tow heavy in heat.
For some people this is true but other people like myself one big reason to remove it is because it will get ripped off when off-road/4 wheeling, I know my first gen it actually said in the owners manual to remove it if driving off-road/over snow drifts.
 

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With and without, It wasn’t a crazy heavy trailer but it was about 5000 pounds.
it was also here in the West Coast mountains in the summer some 100° temperatures



it was before I lifted my truck



For some people this is true but other people like myself one big reason to remove it is because it will get ripped off when off-road/4 wheeling, I know my first gen it actually said in the owners manual to remove it if driving off-road/over snow drifts.
All fair enough. However, the heat shedding capacity of the overall cooling system is reduced by removing the air dam, and also by raising the truck. Both allow more frontal airflow to pass under the vehicle, which increases pressure under the engine bay. This decreases airflow through the stack and out under the engine bay (the only place the stack airflow can exit).

Whether you need this capacity is another question. If the truck ECT stays in the design range under mid-240’s (per Ford’s choice to force “limp mode” at this level), then no harm no foul reducing airflow. FYI, I chose 230 as my “design limit” when heavy towing, and I was able to achieve this “conservative” limit with all of my mods.

I was never trying to get the truck to “run cooler” in the sense of lowering Ford’s design operating temps when not at the cooling system capacity. I know some folks try to do this (eg they don’t like the normal design temps for whatever reason). This requires changing several design elements including t-stat, efan programming, and AGS programming (or removal).

In simple terms, the vast majority of this ugly-long thread is dedicated to avoiding limp mode under heavy towing vs. reducing design operating temps.
 

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All fair enough. However, the heat shedding capacity of the overall cooling system is reduced by removing the air dam, and also by raising the truck. Both allow more frontal airflow to pass under the vehicle, which increases pressure under the engine bay. This decreases airflow through the stack and out under the engine bay (the only place the stack airflow can exit).

Whether you need this capacity is another question. If the truck ECT stays in the design range under mid-240’s (per Ford’s choice to force “limp mode” at this level), then no harm no foul reducing airflow. FYI, I chose 230 as my “design limit” when heavy towing, and I was able to achieve this “conservative” limit with all of my mods.

I was never trying to get the truck to “run cooler” in the sense of lowering Ford’s design operating temps when not at the cooling system capacity. I know some folks try to do this (eg they don’t like the normal design temps for whatever reason). This requires changing several design elements including t-stat, efan programming, and AGS programming (or removal).

In simple terms, the vast majority of this ugly-long thread is dedicated to avoiding limp mode under heavy towing vs. reducing design operating temps.
Yeah, the only way i know if my mods have done much is whether or not my truck exceeds 230F. Otherwise the variables between two tows make comparison very difficult. I rarely get the same mpg’s each way on the same trip which means the truck is working harder on way vs another.
 
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My summer trip continues with the new SD 6.7. Towing my 5500 tt remains a non-event with this truck (as it should). Zero overheating or power issues on even the toughest climbs as we haul through Utah, Wyoming, Montana, and now Idaho. Only surprise? This screen:

View attachment 181060

Last summer I averaged 9-10mpg on premium with the 3.5 eco.
Always a pleasure getting another stick in the eye. Okay I'll bite, how are the payments?
 

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Well I made my journey. It was over 2500 miles of the Canadian Rockies. The road doesn’t have “passes”, it’s more just constant up and down, up and down, up and down. There is no cell service or towns or anything to help if you break so I tried to stay below 230. The truck probably could have gone faster but I wasn’t risking it. I also had mpg target I had to hit to make it on fuel, as the fuel stops are few and far between with some places charging $8-10 a gallon, so I tried to avoid those.

The powerboost had the power to get up the hills but the temps would climb if I tried to maintain speed up the hills. I’d also get 4-5 mpg’s so I bled off my speed and then accelerated down the hills. I was definitely over the design limits for the F150 based on gcwr and gvwr(specifically rear axle). My brakes struggled and more often than not you could smell them at pit stops(yes I know how to dowshift and use trailer brakes). The suspension also struggled to handle the weight which I was over the limit on. Honestly for the powerboost to do what it just did is pretty amazing but alas I need(want) a bigger truck. I am sad because my powerboost is awesome for driving daily and for literally everything besides towing my trailer.

if anyone has a lead on a 250/350 let me know, finding one is difficult. I’ll honestly pick one up from anywhere in the lower 48, then I get to make the drive again!
 
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