F150 Ecoboost Forum banner

81 - 100 of 139 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,701 Posts
So 2018 lariat sport 3.5 been in the shop for
This overheating 4 times now. Thermostat this time. How many times is it gonna take for them to just take the pos away or never There’s obviously something more severe I’d like to think. Thoughts?
Overheating towing or overheating just driving around? This thread is mostly about people towing. If your truck is just overheating driving to get groceries then yes, something is wrong.

I have just started having this same heat spike while towing .
I have been towing the same trailer for 3 years over the same hills with no issues.
Then this trip in July 2020 it started engine code # po217:00-68.
The dealer changed the thermostat and coolant and checked the fan operation and front lovers for operation.
The problem continues about 3 to 4 minutes into a pull the temperature begins to spike .
Have you found any solutions.
2017 Raptor four door 35,000 miles
Where are you towing? Most seem to find the issue is when towing at high elevation in hot temperatures. I am at 6500' and start having issues when its above 80F outside.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,701 Posts
Its funny this thread just came up. I literally just bought this last night so I could put a temp probe in my thermostat housing:



I have a Glowshift EGT/Boost/temperature combo gauge laying around from my jeep after it blew up.
 
  • Like
Reactions: snakebitten

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Did anyone ever end up measuring inlet and outlet temps on the rad. to ensure it's shedding enough heat? Seems with guys going to Misi and FR and still having issues it's certainly not the rad.

I still can't help but think speeding up the water pump a hair would really help. I've read about as much as I can find on this forum (and others) and I believe the water cooled turbos are the issue.. just gotta move that water quicker and/or to a better location on the return.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
I towed in 110° heat going over the Rocky Mountains Colorado and my truck never overheated. The weight of my trailer was about 6,500 pounds. The truck did it without flinching. Transmission temperature never went over 205 degrees.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
860 Posts
I towed in 110° heat going over the Rocky Mountains Colorado and my truck never overheated. The weight of my trailer was about 6,500 pounds. The truck did it without flinching. Transmission temperature never went over 205 degrees.
What model year? Later model trucks with the oil-water transmission cooler seem to be more prone to higher temps (makes sense, more heat getting dumped into the coolant loop).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Has ford changed anything with the 2019 or 2020? I’ve been curious if they have changed any small part of the cooling equation from the 18 I have.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,644 Posts
Did anyone ever end up measuring inlet and outlet temps on the rad. to ensure it's shedding enough heat? Seems with guys going to Misi and FR and still having issues it's certainly not the rad.

I still can't help but think speeding up the water pump a hair would really help. I've read about as much as I can find on this forum (and others) and I believe the water cooled turbos are the issue.. just gotta move that water quicker and/or to a better location on the return.
More speed on the water pump would certainly help. It's the same as downshifting really, it increases RPM (water pump speed) and lowers boost at the same time. However if you have ever looked at the impeller on the water pump, you may think otherwise. It's a pretty anemic fin design - reminds me of an old paddle boat ! just shameful.

My research has let me to the conclusion that since the turbos are at the end of the cooling circuit, they get the hottest coolant and cannot shed enough into the coolant to keep the motor from reaching heat soak. There's a few cutoffs for this. 1) Aftermarket intercooler - Even though those turbos will get smoking hot and pump hot air, a better intercooler would cool that hot air better to resist heat soak. 2) Slowing down and downshifting - Taking your foot out of it will lower the boost (reduce hot air being pumped into the motor) and downshifting will increase RPMs, water pump circulation, etc. this however relies more on the transmission to get you over the hill, which leads to 3) Better trans cooler - The larger trans cooler is pretty cheap and effective at resisting the added strain from pulling a hill in a low gear. 4) Better fan speed and sooner. The fans come on pretty late in the game since the heat load from the turbos can happen very quickly. This is best done through a custom tune.

These are suggestions for 2011-2014, not sure if the design has changed all that much for 2015+.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
860 Posts
And don't forget better radiator. If you can shed the heat more efficiently, that will also help.
 

·
Registered
2013 Ford F150 XLT 3.5 Ecobeast SuperCrew 4X4
Joined
·
932 Posts
And don't forget better radiator. If you can shed the heat more efficiently, that will also help.
Where is a better radiator obtained ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,644 Posts
Full race
 
  • Like
Reactions: Arkansas Eco

·
Registered
2013 Ford F150 XLT 3.5 Ecobeast SuperCrew 4X4
Joined
·
932 Posts
Wow. The list of mods I want to someday do to this truck is getting way way expensive and long 🤪
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
860 Posts
Yep, FR or Mishi. I would probably lean towards FR as their customers tend to be slightly more insane (meaning a better performing product).
 

·
Registered
2013 Ford F150 XLT 3.5 Ecobeast SuperCrew 4X4
Joined
·
932 Posts
I was just looking at them when I ordered the BRA on Stage 3. Those and the tranny cooler look nice together.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,811 Posts
Wow. The list of mods I want to someday do to this truck is getting way way expensive and long
You realize that most of us around here aren't surprised to watch this happen to you.

First, you were one of the immigrants that jumped in head first. Actually participated. (a GOOD thing)

Because of the participation, (plenty of posts) we get to witness the process of discovery. Lol You know, that "list of someday mods"

Happens to the best of us.

(It happens to the silent lurkers too, I imagine. But how do we prove it? They quiet about it)

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
2013 Ford F150 XLT 3.5 Ecobeast SuperCrew 4X4
Joined
·
932 Posts
You realize that most of us around here aren't surprised to watch this happen to you.

First, you were one of the immigrants that jumped in head first. Actually participated. (a GOOD thing)

Because of the participation, (plenty of posts) we get to witness the process of discovery. Lol You know, that "list of someday mods"

Happens to the best of us.

(It happens to the silent lurkers too, I imagine. But how do we prove it? They quiet about it)

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
After driving a 2002 Ranger 3.slow for so long, I am just excited to have a hotrod in the stables LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,701 Posts
I just towed from Park City down too Cedar Breaks National Monument in 90-99* heat. Almost the entire trip is >5000’. I start at 6500’, drop to 4800’, then climb to 11,000’ at the end.

Truck ran pretty hot even on flats. In a few instances, when a head wind kicked up, I couldnt hold more than 65mph(80 mph speed limit on I-15) without the truck starting to head north of 230F even running in 4th gear. The gauge in the dash starts to move at 231F and it would be twitching. At one point I hit 245 just on some rolling hills.

The one major climb on I-15 I ran in 3rd, AC off, heat on max at 60 mph and was pegged at 242-245F the last mile or two of the climb.

This is with the following mods I have at this point:

-Afe intercooler
-Excursion trans cooler
-Setrab oil cooler with Improved Racing Sandwhich plate.
-60% Distilled water/40% Coolant blend
-Redline WaterWetter
-180*F Motorcraft thermostat
-5Star 87 tow tune with fans engaging 10 degrees cooler than normal.

The thermostat and earlier fan engagement did almost nothing. It may have kept it slight cooler on flat ground with no headwind, but there just seems to be a power threashold where the temps just start to climb and nothing stops them.

One thing I did notice though, was once I got off the freeway and was down to 55mph, i could climb pretty much anything without issue. There is one ~3 mile 9% grade a few miles from my house that I climbed without the temps going crazy.

I datalogged the whole trip with Forscan Lite but now I can’t get it to share the files from my phone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
860 Posts
-Afe intercooler
-Expedition trans cooler
-Setrab oil cooler with Improved Racing Sandwhich plate.
-60% Distilled water/40% Coolant blend
-Redline WaterWetter
-180*F Motorcraft thermostat
-5Star 87 tow tune with fans engaging 10 degrees cooler than normal.
You've done about all you can on the mods short of the radiator itself. 60/40 water/coolant? That would seem to be the wrong direction. Coolant increases the boiling point - wouldn't you want 60/40 coolant/water?


The thermostat and earlier fan engagement did almost nothing. It may have kept it slight cooler on flat ground with no headwind, but there just seems to be a power threashold where the temps just start to climb and nothing stops them.
Thermal runaway. Assuming everything else remains constant, if the cooling system can reject X BTUs/min., once you cross that threshold, the heat is just going to continue to build. You have to stop the work and thus the heat generation to get it back under control.

Your options are either a larger reservoir for the heat (more coolant/water) or a better way to reject the heat to the atmosphere (bigger/better radiator and/or more air flow).

FR or Mishi should be your next call.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,701 Posts
You've done about all you can on the mods short of the radiator itself. 60/40 water/coolant? That would seem to be the wrong direction. Coolant increases the boiling point - wouldn't you want 60/40 coolant/water?



Thermal runaway. Assuming everything else remains constant, if the cooling system can reject X BTUs/min., once you cross that threshold, the heat is just going to continue to build. You have to stop the work and thus the heat generation to get it back under control.

Your options are either a larger reservoir for the heat (more coolant/water) or a better way to reject the heat to the atmosphere (bigger/better radiator and/or more air flow).

FR or Mishi should be your next call.
It increases the boiling point but reduces the thermal mass and heat transfer coefficient. The ultimate coolant in terms of heat transfer is pure water with water wetter.
 
81 - 100 of 139 Posts
Top