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18 Plat Screw, FX4, 3.5, 10R80, max tow, stock tune, Mishi CAC no louvers, Mishi rad, 40/60 cool/H2O
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I can't remember but have you already swapped out the tstat?

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I have a 180 and a 188. In the end, I decided to leave the factory 195 in. It is wide open past around 217, so I just don’t see any advantage dropping it. I can always do it later if I change my mind. Costs some coolant but I don’t think I will end up doing it.
 

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18 Plat Screw, FX4, 3.5, 10R80, max tow, stock tune, Mishi CAC no louvers, Mishi rad, 40/60 cool/H2O
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I did run in to one little “quality control” issue (on my work, not the Mishi radiator). The side ductwork on the driver side did not fit very well, and I did my best to do a little trimming to make it work better. It’s pretty crappy even with the factory radiator. Anyway, it got hung up in the louver mechanism on that side and caused the computer to throw a soft code indicating it was stuck. I was able to pull the grille back from the top just enough (without pulling the whole front end apart again) to do a little more trimming and free it up. It cycles through its calibration steps now without hanging up and all is good now.
 

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Welcome to the club!(y) The CP-E rides close to the hood latch lever. I used this tool and straightened mine Amazon.com: Robinair 18403 Fin Straightener: Automotive

It's pretty easy to fix. Did you drill any of the drain plugs for a weep hole? I currently have the drivers side drilled. Haven't noticed any liquids yet, but it's my first winter on it. I can definitely feel the difference on a cool crisp morning in the 40's when you get on it.
That thing is pretty friggin cool. Im buying one. Need it for my AC condenser on the truck and the house :ROFLMAO:
 

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Welcome to the club!(y) The CP-E rides close to the hood latch lever. I used this tool and straightened mine Amazon.com: Robinair 18403 Fin Straightener: Automotive

It's pretty easy to fix. Did you drill any of the drain plugs for a weep hole? I currently have the drivers side drilled. Haven't noticed any liquids yet, but it's my first winter on it. I can definitely feel the difference on a cool crisp morning in the 40's when you get on it.
DNA DAN, all I can say is.>42-39-56....You can say she has it all!!!
What a blast that chunk of aluminum is literally!
The flange adapter showed up today for the Supersonic Turbo Smart BOV....
Already installed revised 5* tunes.....Amazing.
I'm gonna be soooo ready for tow season
I'm not going to drill the CP-E....It's got the drain plugs and the Monster Catch Can has been bone dry since the revised Gen 1 was installed.
Big smiles....
Honored to be in the CP-E CLUB
Screenshot_20201119-183154_Gallery.jpg


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Question about the fans.
Are the fans supposed to kick on as soon as you start the truck? I've noticed that as soon as I start my truck the fans are on low speed and never shut off during idle at least. My fans are supposed to kick on around 188° or so according to the 5* tech since I run the °180 tstat. I've also read they kick on at start up but shut down after about 5 minutes. I let my truck idle for over 5 minutes and ECT was around °175 and fans never shut off.

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Question about the fans.
Are the fans supposed to kick on as soon as you start the truck? I've noticed that as soon as I start my truck the fans are on low speed and never shut off during idle at least. My fans are supposed to kick on around 188° or so according to the 5* tech since I run the °180 tstat. I've also read they kick on at start up but shut down after about 5 minutes. I let my truck idle for over 5 minutes and ECT was around °175 and fans never shut off.

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5Star sent me a tune once where the fans were not set right and were always on. It could be a mistake.
 
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5Star sent me a tune once where the fans were not set right and were always on. It could be a mistake.
Its definitely tune related, put truck back to stock and fans did NOT kick on. Thanks for sharing your experience with the same issue. I'll shoot 5* a email and get some revised tunes for proper fan start up.

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I have a 180 and a 188. In the end, I decided to leave the factory 195 in. It is wide open past around 217, so I just don’t see any advantage dropping it. I can always do it later if I change my mind. Costs some coolant but I don’t think I will end up doing it.
You should also consider the SuperStant. It's only a few degrees cooler but opens up larger. Slow flow Floyd is waiting to make his rematch.
 
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Just heads up, but usually Mishi puts on a sale on this time of year. May be a good opportunity for some!
Yeah i am on their black friday text alert thing with my finger hovering over my mouse button

I am also tracking the price on amazon.
 

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5* sent revised tunes today and fixed the fan situation, they no longer kick on as soon as truck starts.

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Its definitely tune related, put truck back to stock and fans did NOT kick on. Thanks for sharing your experience with the same issue. I'll shoot 5* a email and get some revised tunes for proper fan start up.

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The fans rely on ECT, Trans Temp, or A/C pressure. I do know they make the tables more aggressive but sometimes an overcharged A/C system can cause the fans to come on extremely early.
 

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18 Plat Screw, FX4, 3.5, 10R80, max tow, stock tune, Mishi CAC no louvers, Mishi rad, 40/60 cool/H2O
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Just discovered something odd on my 2018 radiator setup. There is a factory installed plug in the vent line between the passenger side radiator vent and the coolant tank. It is sealed in place with a clamp and even has a green factory mark to indicate if it has been tampered with.

With the engine off, I removed the coolant tank cap, and then pulled the vent line from the radiator and purged another quarts worth of air from the top of the radiator. The level of the coolant tank dropped quickly as the air purged. I then jacked up the front passenger side and purged a bit more air. Lots of gurgling noises from the radiator in the process.

I assume air purge is exactly why this line is there, but I can’t imagine why it is deliberately plugged from the factory. I left it that way, but anyone else with this same setup may want to purge the top of the radiator like I did by jacking up the passenger side and pulling the vent line. Just hold you finger over the hose bard on the radiator and release a bit until nothing but coolant comes out. Then top off the coolant tank.

Maybe this little discovery will help someone else.

28A53A79-F5D7-4B32-9D1A-D7CF415EAD17.jpeg
 

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Just discovered something odd on my 2018 radiator setup. There is a factory installed plug in the vent line between the passenger side radiator vent and the coolant tank. It is sealed in place with a clamp and even has a green factory mark to indicate if it has been tampered with. WTF!

With the engine off, I removed the coolant tank cap, and then pulled the vent line from the radiator and purged another quarts worth of air from the top of the radiator. The level of the coolant tank dropped quickly as the air purged. I then jacked up the front passenger side and purged a bit more air. Lots of gurgling noises from the radiator in the process.

I assume air purge is exactly why this line is there, but I can’t imagine why it is deliberately plugged from the factory. I left it that way, but anyone else with this same setup may want to purge the top of the radiator like I did by jacking up the passenger side and pulling the vent line. Just hold you finger over the hose bard on the radiator and release a bit until nothing but coolant comes out. Then top off the coolant tank.

Maybe this little discovery will help someone else.

View attachment 169378
My truck has the same line with plug inside. I don't believe it is a solid plug though. It has to have some tiny hole or 1 way something in there for air to purge into the reservoir. As I was going through the process of this I would pull the cap off in the morning before work and I could hear the tank purge and watch the level drop in the reservoir. I did what you suggested anyways and had a few coolant bubbles come out but no radiator gurgling, level didn't drop much in the reservoir. I wonder if your vent line is plugged up at all? I'd be interested to see exactly what that plug consists of.

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Gotta have some type of hole in it. Thermostatic one way valve? I too am wondering if it’s plugged. Might try removing the tube and blowing compressed air through it. If air doesn’t come through from at least one direction I would assume there might be a problem with it. I’d be interested in hearing from those who may know.
 

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I wonder if its a check valve so that when the truck is turned off and cools, air doesnt get sucked back in from the tank.
 
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