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It increases the boiling point but reduces the thermal mass and heat transfer coefficient. The ultimate coolant in terms of heat transfer is pure water with water wetter.
True, unless you hit the boiling point.

I still say your next call is to FR or Mishi for a radiator. Not only would you get a substantially better way to dump the heat to atmosphere, you'd get a significant increase in coolant capacity (Mishi says 45%, I assume FR is similar).
 

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True, unless you hit the boiling point.

I still say your next call is to FR or Mishi for a radiator. Not only would you get a substantially better way to dump the heat to atmosphere, you'd get a significant increase in coolant capacity (Mishi says 45%, I assume FR is similar).
I never found specs on the Ford coolant, but the Zerek G05 I used in my jeep had a boiling point of 265F at 50%/50% and 260F at 60%/40%. I think its probably similar. I was just trying anything i could.
 

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Have we come to a consensus on which tranny cooler upgrade is the best, or at least the best suited for us? Seems like I've seen the Saudi cooler, expedition cooler, and iirc one other option that I can't recall. Maybe it was just those two. Or are they about equal?

Also would I be able to use it with my Wagner?
IMG_20180826_163719418.jpg


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Have we come to a consensus on which tranny cooler upgrade is the best, or at least the best suited for us? Seems like I've seen the Saudi cooler, expedition cooler, and iirc one other option that I can't recall. Maybe it was just those two. Or are they about equal?

Also would I be able to use it with my Wagner?
View attachment 167459

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I dont know about size, but one of the issues with the excursion cooler is that it has both inlet and outlet pointed down. The stock cooler(at least on my 2014) has the passenger side fitting on the bottom and drivers side on the top.

So I had to run a longer line to make it work. Im pretty sure the saudi cooler is plug-n-play, but I think I bought mine before people knew about it.

I fixed my post to say excursion.
 
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Yes there is a ppoint if thermal runaway and it seems to be for me over 80 degrease and the coolant gets over 238, (I have a 170 thermostat) with no downhill (coasting decent). Example if anyone is familiar with Idaho HWY 21 from Idaho City it’s a uphill pull to I84 I got to 238 pulling the hill. Then once in I84 it is a slight grade constantly for the next 5-6 miles. Temps at 65mph, slight headwind were constant 228-231, and it wouldn’t come down. 15 miles home in. 1 mole square grid system stops at about every other mile, temps never went below 215, this is all with the A/C off. A/C in temps would clump from 205-230 sitting at a stop sign with the fan’s screaming like I was cleared for takeoff. With the 170 thermostat it wasn’t able to slow down the coolant long enough to shear hit it had to be wide open the whole way home. This was my first run with the 170 thermostat, I’m sure I couldn’t have climbed any of the grades with the OEM unit. The coolant got to got and couldn’t ahead heat cause I needed more power (heat) to get moving a the next 4 way stop.
I don’t have a thermal gun to verify radiator temps. I’m thinking my radiator is operating at full efficiency, or I’ve just loaded the cooling system so much the coolant is screaming for dear life to shear the heat.
Thinking about the FR or Mishimoto radiator, next. 🤞🏻
 

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Yes there is a ppoint if thermal runaway and it seems to be for me over 80 degrease and the coolant gets over 238, (I have a 170 thermostat) with no downhill (coasting decent). Example if anyone is familiar with Idaho HWY 21 from Idaho City it’s a uphill pull to I84 I got to 238 pulling the hill. Then once in I84 it is a slight grade constantly for the next 5-6 miles. Temps at 65mph, slight headwind were constant 228-231, and it wouldn’t come down. 15 miles home in. 1 mole square grid system stops at about every other mile, temps never went below 215, this is all with the A/C off. A/C in temps would clump from 205-230 sitting at a stop sign with the fan’s screaming like I was cleared for takeoff. With the 170 thermostat it wasn’t able to slow down the coolant long enough to shear hit it had to be wide open the whole way home. This was my first run with the 170 thermostat, I’m sure I couldn’t have climbed any of the grades with the OEM unit. The coolant got to got and couldn’t ahead heat cause I needed more power (heat) to get moving a the next 4 way stop.
I don’t have a thermal gun to verify radiator temps. I’m thinking my radiator is operating at full efficiency, or I’ve just loaded the cooling system so much the coolant is screaming for dear life to shear the heat.
Thinking about the FR or Mishimoto radiator, next.
Im not willing to drop $700 on a radiator if its not gunna be a solution though. Id rather just slow down to 55mph a half mile earlier than drop the cash and be able to make it half mile father up the hill. Just doesnt seem worth it to me.
 
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Yep, big fan of locking out OD gears and working the gears instead of the turbos.
I don't get how a cooler t'stat helps much. It's a delay mechanism, at best.
 

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Im not willing to drop $700 on a radiator if its not gunna be a solution though. Id rather just slow down to 55mph a half mile earlier than drop the cash and be able to make it half mile father up the hill. Just doesnt seem worth it to me.
Unfortunately, without some most excellent thermodynamic modelling, you aren't going to know for sure without trying it. Any trick that increases the heat capacity of the coolant by altering its chemistry, increasing its volume, etc. is just buying time. If you can't dump the heat faster than the truck can generate it, it's just a matter of time. If you want a definitive fix, the only way is to reach a point where the net BTUs is negative - you're dumping more heat to atmosphere than the truck can generate. And there's only two ways for that to happen - reduce the amount of heat going in (such as eliminating the oil-water cooler for the 10R80) or increase the amount of heat being discharged (bigger rad).

Your solution is probably a combination of all these things, where you eventually reach a point that you will never hit the thermal runaway limit during any sort of sane driving. I'm most likely in the same boat.
 

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Im not willing to drop $700 on a radiator if its not gunna be a solution though. Id rather just slow down to 55mph a half mile earlier than drop the cash and be able to make it half mile father up the hill. Just doesnt seem worth it to me.
Oh I hear ya! I don’t want to drop $700 for a radiator that won’t improve anything. I’m just hate having all this power and cannot use it. I believe the 170 is to low of a thermostat I can just saturate the coolant and it cannot dissipate the heat. I just need to figure something, it sucks going up grades watching the ECT climb and there is nothing you can do about it. I mean I went up horseshoe bend Saturday outside temps of 88 ECT maxed at 247! No message, just crested I was able to hold 240 for the longest time, doing 45 MPH in 2nd gear, in 3rd the turbos were spoiled way up running 10 psi boost and the gauge was moving faster than I was climbing.
 

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Oh I hear ya! I don’t want to drop $700 for a radiator that won’t improve anything. I’m just hate having all this power and cannot use it. I believe the 170 is to low of a thermostat I can just saturate the coolant and it cannot dissipate the heat. I just need to figure something, it sucks going up grades watching the ECT climb and there is nothing you can do about it. I mean I went up horseshoe bend Saturday outside temps of 88 ECT maxed at 247! No message, just crested I was able to hold 240 for the longest time, doing 45 MPH in 2nd gear, in 3rd the turbos were spoiled way up running 10 psi boost and the gushed was moving faster than I was climbing.
You might be actually trying to rev too high. Try to keep the revs between 2500-3000 and not go over 3000. 4th gear at 60 mph (6 speed) is about right.
 
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Unfortunately, without some most excellent thermodynamic modelling, you aren't going to know for sure without trying it. Any trick that increases the heat capacity of the coolant by altering its chemistry, increasing its volume, etc. is just buying time. If you can't dump the heat faster than the truck can generate it, it's just a matter of time. If you want a definitive fix, the only way is to reach a point where the net BTUs is negative - you're dumping more heat to atmosphere than the truck can generate. And there's only two ways for that to happen - reduce the amount of heat going in (such as eliminating the oil-water cooler for the 10R80) or increase the amount of heat being discharged (bigger rad).

Your solution is probably a combination of all these things, where you eventually reach a point that you will never hit the thermal runaway limit during any sort of sane driving. I'm most likely in the same boat.
But we do know, because other people have tried, and the bigger rad is just a band aid just like all of the other solutions.

Increasing the size of the coolers isnt working. Lowering the thermostat temp isn’t working.

The difference is the solutions i have done so far are fairly cheap. $1 for a bottle of distilled water, $75 for a trans cooler and an $8 thermostat.The Setrab oil cooler was the most expensive thing but I got it used on here for like 1/4 the price of new.
 

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Anyone put temp probes before and after the turbos to confirm if it's just the turbos dumping way to much heat into the system?

Be interested to know if some of the theories based on the coolant temps dropping almost immediately could be confirmed with a handful of probes installed into the system in various places. Unfortunately not a lot of people want to hack up there trucks...
 

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Anyone put temp probes before and after the turbos to confirm if it's just the turbos dumping way to much heat into the system?

Be interested to know if some of the theories based on the coolant temps dropping almost immediately could be confirmed with a handful of probes installed into the system in various places. Unfortunately not a lot of people want to hack up there trucks...
I bought a drill and 1/8" NPT tap to tap the aluminum thermostat housing on the outlet of the radiator. I think I am going to order a spare new one first in case I mess something up though.

I think knowing the temperature delta across the radiator will tell us the issue. If we only see a 10 degree drop(IE the coolant leaves the engine at 245 and is going back in at 235), then that would suggest that the radiator simply isnt shedding the heat.

If the outlet of the radiator is at 180, then that would suggest a coolant flow issue. It is sitting too long in the engine and heating up and sitting too long in the radiator.
 

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A comment from left field, and I do not tow or haul heavy but am familiar with race crews using Evans Waterless coolant. Expensive yes (around $200 for F150, 4 gallons at $49 each) but a listed boiling point over 350 F. That ensures minimum local boil inside the engine and components. Cheaper than an aftermarket HP radiator. KM
 

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A comment from left field, and I do not tow or haul heavy but am familiar with race crews using Evans Waterless coolant. Expensive yes (around $200 for F150, 4 gallons at $49 each) but a listed boiling point over 350 F. That ensures minimum local boil inside the engine and components. Cheaper than an aftermarket HP radiator. KM
But then you have to make sure that your tune has every single setting changed so that there are no adverse effects when the PCM see's your coolant is 300F.
 
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I'd really be interested in delta across the turbos too...

Factory temp probe is after everything is hot and right before the radiator correct? So downflow of motor and turbos..
 

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I'd really be interested in delta across the turbos too...

Factory thermostat is after everything is hot and right before the radiator correct? So downflow of motor and turbos..
The factory tstat is at the inlet of the waterpump and somewhat in the outlet hose of the radiator. So its actually controlling the temperature flow into the engine rather than out of the engine. It can receive mixed flow from both the radiator outlet and engine outlet at the same time, and is attempting to blend the two to hit the desired inlet temp.
 

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The turbo cooling lines need to be moved to the beginning of the circuit. Better radiator helps, but the water pump is too anemic to make good use out of it. The flow through the system should be increased to utilize the aftermarket radiators better. Probe your stocker already! I need some data.
 
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