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Haven't the guys with larger radiators still had trouble? Or are they even too small?

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The larger radiators do not increase the frontal area(height x width), they just get thicker. Going thicker is not a 1:1 payoff. As the air travels through the core it heats, which means the heat transfer reduces. So every inch you add to the thickness of a radiator does less than the inch before it did. At some point the air passing through the core reaches saturation where it is the temperature of the fluid inside of the radiator and no longer transfers heat.

Ideally, We would increase the height and or width of the cores as well as the thickness, by it is not really feasible. There isnt much room to make them taller or wider, and the fan shroud would no longer fit.
 

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Curious how the Full Race unit stacks up, I assume its similar dimensionally to the Mishimoto? And curious how the efficiency compares between all of them. Did Ford use a better/ more efficient design than some of those other OEMs and that allows for a smaller size? Seems like a pretty big error to put a small, inefficient heat exchanger on a turbo'd engine that will create more heat than the average truck or SUV. But it would explain all the persistent temp issues...

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The FR this thinner than the Mish. 42mm vs 52mm. Stock 11-14 max tow radiator is 32mm.

Width and height are basically the same for all 3 + or - a half an inch here or there.
 

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So what you're saying is we need one of these? I knew that was you driving down the highway the other day. . . :ROFLMAO:
171957
 

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So here is my test attempt at flap door in the fan shroud. Im gunna run with just the one and see if i can use my wifi bore scope to snap some shots of the flap at different speeds and see if it blows open.




 

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2013 Ford F150 XLT 3.5 EgoBeast SuperCrew 4X4, 3.55 axles, 9.75" w/elocker
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Can the pulley size on the pump be changed ?
Could the metal vs plastic on the 2 radiators above be a thing ? Maybe the metal sheds heat alot more efficiently ?
 

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2018 F-150 XLT SCAB 4x4 3.55:1
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The primary concern using higher percentage of water should be corrosion resistance.

Specific heat capacity of the working fluid matters if the pump does not move enough volume. Turbulent flow increases heat transfer from block to working fluid, low speed laminar flow won’t hardly transfer any heat. Specific heat of air over the radiator limits heat transfer. No substitute for larger radiator surface.

Reminds me of something: Is the radiator mounted square to the front? I haven’t noticed an angle but have not paid attention. In HVAC designs the fins are deliberately misaligned at least 3° to prevent laminar flow from developing. My 1986 VW Golf radiator was deliberately mounted “off”, one side an inch or so behind the other.

If the cooling system once worked but not so well today then perhaps the interior of the radiator is coated with something producing a boundary layer to slow heat transfer? Use of an acid flush was common 50 years ago. What do we do today?
 

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So the radiator is in. Here is the total list of cooling upgrades I have now:
  • Mishimoto Radiator
  • 40%/60% Coolant/Water, changed to the Ford Yellow coolant since I emptied the whole engine anyways.
  • Kool-It Water Wetter
  • Setrab oil cooler, now mounted down in front of the CAC in its own air path.
  • CVF CAC
  • Excursion Transmission Cooler
  • AFE Transmission Pan(if you can count this)
  • "3.7 V6" water pump(possibly not an upgrade)
  • Flap Door in Fan Shroud(yet to be proven)
  • Mustang Thermostat(forget the temp 185F maybe?)

If this doesn't keep it cool I give up.

A note, the Mishimoto radiator core is about 3/4" wider and taller than the stock radiator.
 

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So the radiator is in. Here is the total list of cooling upgrades I have now:
  1. Mishimoto Radiator
  2. 40%/60% Coolant/Water, changed to the Ford Yellow coolant since I emptied the whole engine anyways.
  3. Kool-It Water Wetter
  4. Setrab oil cooler, now mounted down in front of the CAC in its own air path.
  5. CVF CAC
  6. Excursion Transmission Cooler
  7. AFE Transmission Pan(if you can count this)
  8. "3.7 V6" water pump(possibly not an upgrade)
  9. Flap Door in Fan Shroud(yet to be proven)

If this doesn't keep it cool I give up.

A note, the Mishimoto radiator core is about 3/4" wider and taller than the stock radiator.
Did you do the stock oil cooler delete as part of the oil cooler setup?
 

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Did you do the stock oil cooler delete as part of the oil cooler setup?
No. I kept the stock one. I dont trust the air cooler alone to do the job. At slow speeds it will do almost nothing.
 

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So you have the oil line connected via a sandwich adapter on the stock cooler? Good point about the heat when idling. I wonder if other s with the delete see heat issues in traffic? I was just thinking about removing some heat load on the radiator so the turbos see cooler coolant. You think that oil cooler setup would work better than stock if it had a fan on it for low rpms? With no stock cooler?

Also where did you mount the cooler? Any pics?
 

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What temps are you seeing with the updates, empty driving I'd assume? What temps were you seeing with all the stock stuff?
 

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What temps are you seeing with the updates, empty driving I'd assume? What temps were you seeing with all the stock stuff?
I have no idea yet. I literally drove it for 5 minutes after i buttoned it up and it was snowing. So i think it got to like 190.

The thing is the coolant temps are so whacky when you are at the thermostat opening temperature. You touch the gas and the temp will jump 10 degrees before the thermostat can react, and then it will drop back down as the cold coolant from the radiator dumps into the engine.

I doubt the radiator does anything until the truck is under heavy load. The only place I could really test it without a trailer is climbing out of salt lake city on a 100F day with the AC blasting. Ive climbed that before with the truck unloaded and had the temp gauge start to creep right.
 
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So here is the oil cooler. I mounted it directly to the CAC crossmember(see two button head screws in first pic). I just need to make a bracket to run from the bumper to the lower cooler mount holes.

I wanted to mount the oil cooler behind the CAC toward the drivers side, but the issue is CAC is bar and plate, so huge portions of it are blocked from flow. If i mounted the oil cooler behind the CAC, it would not only be getting hotter air, but ~50% reduced flow. Oil cooler is tube and fin so it doesnt block much area and should still allow most air through to the CAC.

I may put up a mesh screen to protect it on rock strikes.
 

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You stole my mount location ;)

We're about identical in our cooling mods at this point.

One thing I've noticed since I've done a decent amount of towing with this setup at this point. The location of the oil cooler brought my intercooler temps up about 20 degrees. Still WAY improved vs the OEM intercooler, but worth noting. I can also say that my brother in law still gets warm in his 2015 with just an oil cooler upgrade (though much improved.) I got warm before with just the mishimoto radiator (though much improved.) So FAR (knock on wood) - the combo of both the radiator & engine oil coolers, upgraded trans cooler and intercooler - things have remained under danger zone. Seems to be the ticket - happy so far but... we'll see when the summer heat comes... I will say I was PUSHING it hard on this last trip to Yosemite (and I was over my rear axle limit per the CAT scale) and it stayed cold - though - it was only 60 degrees out..



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Also some pics from last weekend on the way home from Yosemite, just for fun!
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There is no way I would put an oil cooler in front of the grill opening like that. My intercooler has taken some decent hits to it and I strictly drive in the city. One hit, your oil is gone and the motor is locked up before you know what's wrong
 

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Mine has as well but nothing that created any leaks - that would take one major rock. I need as much airflow to that thing as I can get. But it's getting a grill/screen mounted in front of that here in the next week anyway so it should be fine.

Hmm... or maybe I shouldn't install the screen.. motor locks up I have an excuse to upgrade my truck... 🤔
 

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There is no way I would put an oil cooler in front of the grill opening like that. My intercooler has taken some decent hits to it and I strictly drive in the city. One hit, your oil is gone and the motor is locked up before you know what's wrong
Where would you put it? I had mine up by the trans cooler and it got pegged up there too. My ac condenser has taken plenty of hits.

My only other thought was behind the CAC but the. I feel like i might as well not even have the cooler.
 

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