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18 Plat Screw, FX4, 3.5, 10R80, max tow, stock tune, Mishi CAC no louvers, Mishi rad, 40/60 cool/H2O
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Just finished my first real test run since putting in the Mishi rad late last year. I had to do some work on the trailer anyway so since I had it on the hitch, I made a hard run up the hill from St George toward Cedar City.

This run goes from about 2500’ to about 5500’ up I-15 toward Salt Lake. Ambient started about 80 degrees and ended about 70 degrees. There was a fairly strong headwind from the NW, and I ran 70+ most of the way up. A/C on as well. Not “worst case”, but still pretty tough as I could tell from watching the boost gauge.

Results were twofold:

1) If I locked out 10-9-8 on the 10r80 the rpms stayed well above 2000, and the coolant temps never got past 228 degrees. Tranny maxed at about 215 degrees. Very stable and drivable. Lots of pedal left under my right foot. Very much improved from where I started bone stock.

2) If I let the computer decide the gear (tow/haul mode), the truck was constantly heading to 8th, rpms dropped below 2000, and I saw 232 degrees one time. Also, boost gauge was pegged often and gas mileage went right in to the crapper. Truck felt sluggish and labored, and basically refused a lower gear until I pushed down hard.



Whoever at Ford is responsible for the tow/haul mode programming is an idiot who knows nothing about how this drivetrain performs under heavy towing. Blows me away considering the millions Ford spends on developing such things.

I am becoming more and more convinced that it is unlikely any reasonable cooling modifications will allow me to tow heavy using tow/haul mode “automatically”. These motors generate too much heat, and are too inefficient doing so, operating max boost in the sub-2000 rpm range.

I will learn more about my truck’s new “limits” in late June when I head to Pinetop, AZ in what I assume will be closer to “worst case” conditions. However, I am already pretty confident the truck is much improved vs. stock, and I will be able to avoid most of the overheating issues without so much effort as before. Lock out 10-9-8 and relax.
 

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Just finished my first real test run since putting in the Mishi rad late last year. I had to do some work on the trailer anyway so since I had it on the hitch, I made a hard run up the hill from St George toward Cedar City.

This run goes from about 2500’ to about 5500’ up I-15 toward Salt Lake. Ambient started about 80 degrees and ended about 70 degrees. There was a fairly strong headwind from the NW, and I ran 70+ most of the way up. A/C on as well. Not “worst case”, but still pretty tough as I could tell from watching the boost gauge.

Results were twofold:

1) If I locked out 10-9-8 on the 10r80 the rpms stayed well above 2000, and the coolant temps never got past 228 degrees. Tranny maxed at about 215 degrees. Very stable and drivable. Lots of pedal left under my right foot. Very much improved from where I started bone stock.

2) If I let the computer decide the gear (tow/haul mode), the truck was constantly heading to 8th, rpms dropped below 2000, and I saw 232 degrees one time. Also, boost gauge was pegged often and gas mileage went right in to the crapper. Truck felt sluggish and labored, and basically refused a lower gear until I pushed down hard.



Whoever at Ford is responsible for the tow/haul mode programming is an idiot who knows nothing about how this drivetrain performs under heavy towing. Blows me away considering the millions Ford spends on developing such things.

I am becoming more and more convinced that it is unlikely any reasonable cooling modifications will allow me to tow heavy using tow/haul mode “automatically”. These motors generate too much heat, and are too inefficient doing so, operating max boost in the sub-2000 rpm range.

I will learn more about my truck’s new “limits” in late June when I head to Pinetop, AZ in what I assume will be closer to “worst case” conditions. However, I am already pretty confident the truck is much improved vs. stock, and I will be able to avoid most of the overheating issues without so much effort as before. Lock out 10-9-8 and relax.
Stock thermostat?

DItto on the need to fire the tow-haul programmers. It's like they want to rely on boost to get you over the hill but didn't design the cooling system to handle 100% boost for 5 miles under heavy load.
 

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18 Plat Screw, FX4, 3.5, 10R80, max tow, stock tune, Mishi CAC no louvers, Mishi rad, 40/60 cool/H2O
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Stock thermostat?

DItto on the need to fire the tow-haul programmers. It's like they want to rely on boost to get you over the hill but didn't design the cooling system to handle 100% boost for 5 miles under heavy load.
Stock 195 stat.
 

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Just finished my first real test run since putting in the Mishi rad late last year. I had to do some work on the trailer anyway so since I had it on the hitch, I made a hard run up the hill from St George toward Cedar City.

This run goes from about 2500’ to about 5500’ up I-15 toward Salt Lake. Ambient started about 80 degrees and ended about 70 degrees. There was a fairly strong headwind from the NW, and I ran 70+ most of the way up. A/C on as well. Not “worst case”, but still pretty tough as I could tell from watching the boost gauge.

Results were twofold:

1) If I locked out 10-9-8 on the 10r80 the rpms stayed well above 2000, and the coolant temps never got past 228 degrees. Tranny maxed at about 215 degrees. Very stable and drivable. Lots of pedal left under my right foot. Very much improved from where I started bone stock.

2) If I let the computer decide the gear (tow/haul mode), the truck was constantly heading to 8th, rpms dropped below 2000, and I saw 232 degrees one time. Also, boost gauge was pegged often and gas mileage went right in to the crapper. Truck felt sluggish and labored, and basically refused a lower gear until I pushed down hard.



Whoever at Ford is responsible for the tow/haul mode programming is an idiot who knows nothing about how this drivetrain performs under heavy towing. Blows me away considering the millions Ford spends on developing such things.

I am becoming more and more convinced that it is unlikely any reasonable cooling modifications will allow me to tow heavy using tow/haul mode “automatically”. These motors generate too much heat, and are too inefficient doing so, operating max boost in the sub-2000 rpm range.

I will learn more about my truck’s new “limits” in late June when I head to Pinetop, AZ in what I assume will be closer to “worst case” conditions. However, I am already pretty confident the truck is much improved vs. stock, and I will be able to avoid most of the overheating issues without so much effort as before. Lock out 10-9-8 and relax.
Your description of the shifting while towing is how I feel about my 6 speed truck period, towing or not. It wants to resist downshifting, even with tunes. Sport mode helps but does not totally eliminate it. I find myself manually shifting a lot, especially with a trailer. When I do, and it's not lugging, the whole truck feels happier and it performs beautifully.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
 

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Your description of the shifting while towing is how I feel about my 6 speed truck period, towing or not. It wants to resist downshifting, even with tunes. Sport mode helps but does not totally eliminate it. I find myself manually shifting a lot, especially with a trailer. When I do, and it's not lugging, the whole truck feels happier and it performs beautifully.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
Once you hit that 2500-3500 RPM power band it seems like the engine can just pull whatever, forever until something melts!
 
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Your description of the shifting while towing is how I feel about my 6 speed truck period, towing or not. It wants to resist downshifting, even with tunes. Sport mode helps but does not totally eliminate it. I find myself manually shifting a lot, especially with a trailer. When I do, and it's not lugging, the whole truck feels happier and it performs beautifully.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
@mwemaxxowner ....I dont have that problem whatsoever with my 6speed /5* Tow Tune.
It downshifts firmly upon braking and stays in 4th & 5th gear 98% of the time when towing my doublewide
I have a camping trip booked for May 21st. Their will be altitude, 7% grades and ambient temps in the high AZ 90's.
We shall see what difference the CP-E; Supersonic BOV, deep dish ribbed AFE aluminium transmission pan, and full open thermal trans bypass valve will do?
I mean, what other 1/2 ton truck can pull a house ( yes gets a pinch hot ) ; than unloaded smoke 75% or more of any vehicle on the road!
PS....highlighted red points 😊
Screenshot_20210503-202228_Facebook.jpg
Screenshot_20210427-140607_Torque.jpg


Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
 

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2013 Ford F150 XLT 3.5 EgoBeast SuperCrew 4X4, 3.55 axles, 9.75" w/elocker
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Your description of the shifting while towing is how I feel about my 6 speed truck period, towing or not. It wants to resist downshifting, even with tunes. Sport mode helps but does not totally eliminate it. I find myself manually shifting a lot, especially with a trailer. When I do, and it's not lugging, the whole truck feels happier and it performs beautifully.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
I totally agree with this. I tow in manual mode and when the boost gauge gets up to 9 or 10 I shift down. Sometimes sooner.
 
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I guess what I do would be considered modified auto. Haha

I don't go full on manual. By now I know about when I need it to shift, or can see ahead that I'll need to, so I'll bump down to lock out a gear, or two, or three in an extreme situation I guess. Then when the load on the truck eases up I'll bump it back up and enable the gears again, allowing the truck to shift back up into them whenever it's ready.

Having the selectshift ability I think lets us make up for a lot of shortcomings if necessary!

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
 

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Yeah my 5Star tunes are pretty perfect other than I think they contributed to warping my manifolds. I just set it and forget it for the most part.

This is one of the reasons why i may just go with a V8 next time around. If i have to force my truck to spin a 4000+ rpm anyways, why not make it at least sound good.

My lexus is only rated for 301 hp @ 5500 rpm at sea level. Even here at 6500’ it will pull hills at 65 mph at 4000 rpm with my trailer at full load(full water tank, 2x batteries, 2x 40 lb propanes). So i am not even at peak power and it will do. A 400 hp V8 should do it without issue.
 
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2013 Ford F150 XLT 3.5 EgoBeast SuperCrew 4X4, 3.55 axles, 9.75" w/elocker
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I guess what I do would be considered modified auto. Haha

I don't go full on manual. By now I know about when I need it to shift, or can see ahead that I'll need to, so I'll bump down to lock out a gear, or two, or three in an extreme situation I guess. Then when the load on the truck eases up I'll bump it back up and enable the gears again, allowing the truck to shift back up into them whenever it's ready.

Having the selectshift ability I think lets us make up for a lot of shortcomings if necessary!

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
I was doing it that way and then thot what the heck just shift it manually. I set the cruise and just shift up and down unless a tight curve and hafta brake.
 

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It would be really hard to get the transmission to automatically shift at a certain load or boost. The way the transmission shift tables are set up for the 6 speed is that they shift based on the pedal position and mph as opposed to a certain torque value or load value.

Translating the pedal position into a certain torque and then from torque into a certain boost or load would be incredibly difficult and would take a ton of analysis.
 

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I gathered that they had done all they could, which was further proven to me by having the same experience with other tuners, which is why I've chosen to just manually take over. It works and it's not much of an inconvenience. I can also jab the throttle a little and force a shift but it's hard to make that nice and smooth.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
 

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2013 Ford F150 XLT 3.5 EgoBeast SuperCrew 4X4, 3.55 axles, 9.75" w/elocker
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Also, it’s one reason they include the shift buttons. Besides, since the other day when I had the music loud and forgot I was in manual mode, I know it can rev over 6k without issue :oops:
 

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I gathered that they had done all they could, which was further proven to me by having the same experience with other tuners, which is why I've chosen to just manually take over. It works and it's not much of an inconvenience. I can also jab the throttle a little and force a shift but it's hard to make that nice and smooth.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
I think it could be done with some Excel wizardry. But you would also have to do it for each specific tire size and gear ratio too. since the tables are in MPH the rpm will be different for every axle ratio and tire size.
 

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Kinda hate to admit it, but I have gone through 40+ revisions of my tune, just trying to dial in the shift schedule for towing and normal mode on my truck. In tow mode, I basically just erred on the side of downshifting with less throttle input for a given speed. My truck won't even shift into 6th while towing until I'm over 70mph with light throttle.
 

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2013 Ford F150 XLT 3.5 EgoBeast SuperCrew 4X4, 3.55 axles, 9.75" w/elocker
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I don’t want mine in 6th while towing.
 
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