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18 Plat Screw, FX4, 3.5, 10R80, max tow, stock tune, Mishi CAC no louvers, Mishi rad, 40/60 cool/H2O
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I find it amusing that trailers like mine are marketed as being able to be towed by the family mid-sized SUV (dry weight < 5000lbs). While I know there are some very capable versions with V8’s (like yours), most have nowhere near what it takes to haul my trailer through the hills. Most couldn’t even handle the tongue weight of about 750lbs.
 

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I find it amusing that trailers like mine are marketed as being able to be towed by the family mid-sized SUV (dry weight < 5000lbs). While I know there are some very capable versions with V8’s (like yours), most have nowhere near what it takes to haul my trailer through the hills. Most couldn’t even handle the tongue weight of about 750lbs.
The GX is extremely unique in that its a mid-sized SUV with a body-on-frame and solid axle with a V8. Its a unicorn. There is no other mid-sized truck or SUV quite like it except maybe the Ranger with the Ecoboost. Everything else has 50-80 less ft-lbs of torque. Although, rumor is the next gen Colorado is getting the 2.7L turbo engine from the silverado.

Even then, the GX underpowered for my trailer. It will do it but its not fun or relaxing. Maybe something like a Winnebago Microminnie that is only 7' wide would be better due to less drag.

I've tossed around the idea of going to a MicroMinnie 5th wheel as it would likely have better aero than my current trailer with it being tucked up so close to the back of the truck and only 7' wide.
 
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I think the Toyota Sequoia comes close being on a Tundra chassis. I used to tow my 7500lb rig with that for about 2 trips before I bought the Ecoboost. The Platinum models have the stupid air ride which makes the rear pretty squishy even in sport mode. I think the Limited or SR5 would do better suspension wise. As for power the 5.7L is a woeful dog of a motor. I don't know how the Tundra guys are with it, but I can't imagine it being useful for anything but an SUV motor. It's quite underwhelming in a tow situation.
 

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I think the Toyota Sequoia comes close being on a Tundra chassis. I used to tow my 7500lb rig with that for about 2 trips before I bought the Ecoboost. The Platinum models have the stupid air ride which makes the rear pretty squishy even in sport mode. I think the Limited or SR5 would do better suspension wise. As for power the 5.7L is a woeful dog of a motor. I don't know how the Tundra guys are with it, but I can't imagine it being useful for anything but an SUV motor. It's quite underwhelming in a tow situation.
That is surprising to hear. My cousin tows a 6000+ lb boat around Utah with his Tundra and said it absolutely hauls a**. I've never towed with one but the extra ~70 ft-lbs and 80 hp over my 4.6L has to count for something.

Def no ecoboost though.
 

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18 Plat Screw, FX4, 3.5, 10R80, max tow, stock tune, Mishi CAC no louvers, Mishi rad, 40/60 cool/H2O
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I just did another quick test run up I-15 from St George toward Cedar City at 80+mph without the trailer. Ragged on it pretty hard with boost gauge at about mid-point on several long stretches. Outside temp read 106-108 degrees. I could hear the efans screaming on high. A/C blowing nice cold air. OMG it is really hot today!

ECT topped out at 226 degrees. Most of the 20 minute ride they were high 2-teens to low 220’s. Looks really good so far. Mishi rad seems to have really helped.

Late-June tow to Pinetop will be the acid test.
 

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I just did another quick test run up I-15 from St George toward Cedar City at 80+mph without the trailer. Ragged on it pretty hard with boost gauge at about mid-point on several long stretches. Outside temp read 106-108 degrees. I could hear the efans screaming on high. A/C blowing nice cold air. OMG it is really hot today!

ECT topped out at 226 degrees. Most of the 20 minute ride they were high 2-teens to low 220’s. Looks really good so far. Mishi rad seems to have really helped.

Late-June tow to Pinetop will be the acid test.
Yeah its warm today, although we are a bit cooler at 88 but I don't think my A/C has turned off in 3 hours because the sun is hitting the house so hard.
 

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Same problem here in WJ. Back of the house faces West so it gets cooking in the afternoons. I think we're in the 90's out there right now.

Need to do some datalogging and see what my IAT's are with the Full Race IC in place.

Sent from my SM-N976U using Tapatalk
 

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18 Plat Screw, FX4, 3.5, 10R80, max tow, stock tune, Mishi CAC no louvers, Mishi rad, 40/60 cool/H2O
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I was able to get the Mishi CAC installed late last summer, so I was able to get some performance data towing some big hills in the heat. My IAT2’s were around 120-130 worst case, which is way below what I was seeing before the CAC change.

I was not able to get the Mishi rad in until October since it was backordered. I am just now beginning to get some real-world experience with improvements associated with that expensive change. So far so good.
 

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18 Plat Screw, FX4, 3.5, 10R80, max tow, stock tune, Mishi CAC no louvers, Mishi rad, 40/60 cool/H2O
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Just curious ...

Do any of you guys have a recommendation for an iOS app that will do nice gauges and maybe trend lines for the eco? I have Forscan but hate dragging my laptop along just for monitoring. I’d like to have something I can just use on my iPhone for convenient checks.
 

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Just curious ...

Do any of you guys have a recommendation for an iOS app that will do nice gauges and maybe trend lines for the eco? I have Forscan but hate dragging my laptop along just for monitoring. I’d like to have something I can just use on my iPhone for convenient checks.
There is a forscan app for the iphone as well as an app called OBDLink. OBDLink has a Ford OEM extended PID package you can download that makes it just as capable as forscan I would say.

The problem with the iphone is that you need an obd adapter that works with the iphone. I run the OBDLink MX+ and its great, but pricier than some of the chinese Amazon/ebay adapters. You need an OBDLink adapter to use their app anyways.
 

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I appreciate the recommendations. I ordered the OBPLink MX+ from Amazon. Coming tomorrow. I played with the iPhone OBDLink app a bit. Started building a custom gauges screen for the PIDs I want. Pretty cool so far.

I don't see PIDs for fan speed or AGS position (among others). Are these available in the Ford download that I can get once I have the dongle?
 

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I appreciate the recommendations. I ordered the OBPLink MX+ from Amazon. Coming tomorrow. I played with the iPhone OBDLink app a bit. Started building a custom gauges screen for the PIDs I want. Pretty cool so far.

I don't see PIDs for fan speed or AGS position (among others). Are these available in the Ford download that I can get once I have the dongle?
The OBDLink app is similar to Torque that everyone talks about, but is a little less user friendly. Setting up the gauges is a little clunkier. Where it kills Torque is in the extended PID's. You should get 1 or 2 free extended PID packages with the MX+. I was able to download them for both my F150 and Lexus and both have an insane amount of PID's for literally any module in the vehicle. I can monitor anything from my heated/cooled seats in the lexus to the sway bar disconnect module.
 
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New here, but not new to the overheat problem. This will be my first post, and a long one. Theories and speculation on what's going on at the bottom. 2013 screw, stock with 140k when I first pulled my 26' tt last year. Rolling hills here in MI and about a whole 1000' ASL. Saw the temp gage start rising just trying to maintain 65 on the freeway. I've never had the dash warning, but I've locked out gears, kept the rpm up and boost down, and slowed way down to keep it that way. Replaced both rubber pieces on sides of the rad and did a total cooling system flush. That helped maybe a tiny amount.
Fast forward to this year. Did a whole lot of investigating and reading. Just did the intake valve cleaning and have some parts on the way. Rx catch can, cvf atlas, mishi 19 row oil cooler, Saudi trans cooler, 170° t stat, obd link to monitor. I'm hoping this will help. The last resort for easy mods is a new rad.
What we know happens, we get into boost and the temp goes through the roof. Vehicles are engineered to warm up fast for fuel efficiency. We know the engine oil cooler and coolant interact to warm each other. The coolant runs through the turbos and into the back of the head on recirc until the thermostat opens to warm it up faster, and this may be where the problem is. Turbos spooled up pushing tons of heat and being dumped into the back of the head where the temp sensor is. Get off the boost and turbos cool quickly and rush of cool coolant to the back of the head and temp sensor. It may also act as a safety for the turbo too. The whole system is designed to operate and play well with itself, and also save itself. We need to lower the temps into the turbos to lower them coming out, and into the head. Lowering t stat temp will lower temp into turbo. Lowering oil temp will take some load off the rad, and may help keep turbo cooler. Keeping trans temp down will take some load off the rad. More flow would be nice, but it's doubtful we'll get that. You could always put a small rad plumbed in before, or after each turbo... Let me know if any of my ramblings make any sense to all of you who know way more about this than I.
 

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New here, but not new to the overheat problem. This will be my first post, and a long one. Theories and speculation on what's going on at the bottom. 2013 screw, stock with 140k when I first pulled my 26' tt last year. Rolling hills here in MI and about a whole 1000' ASL. Saw the temp gage start rising just trying to maintain 65 on the freeway. I've never had the dash warning, but I've locked out gears, kept the rpm up and boost down, and slowed way down to keep it that way. Replaced both rubber pieces on sides of the rad and did a total cooling system flush. That helped maybe a tiny amount.
Fast forward to this year. Did a whole lot of investigating and reading. Just did the intake valve cleaning and have some parts on the way. Rx catch can, cvf atlas, mishi 19 row oil cooler, Saudi trans cooler, 170° t stat, obd link to monitor. I'm hoping this will help. The last resort for easy mods is a new rad.
What we know happens, we get into boost and the temp goes through the roof. Vehicles are engineered to warm up fast for fuel efficiency. We know the engine oil cooler and coolant interact to warm each other. The coolant runs through the turbos and into the back of the head on recirc until the thermostat opens to warm it up faster, and this may be where the problem is. Turbos spooled up pushing tons of heat and being dumped into the back of the head where the temp sensor is. Get off the boost and turbos cool quickly and rush of cool coolant to the back of the head and temp sensor. It may also act as a safety for the turbo too. The whole system is designed to operate and play well with itself, and also save itself. We need to lower the temps into the turbos to lower them coming out, and into the head. Lowering t stat temp will lower temp into turbo. Lowering oil temp will take some load off the rad, and may help keep turbo cooler. Keeping trans temp down will take some load off the rad. More flow would be nice, but it's doubtful we'll get that. You could always put a small rad plumbed in before, or after each turbo... Let me know if any of my ramblings make any sense to all of you who know way more about this than I.
I literally was just talking to my boss today about adding a radiator that is only used to cool the coolant that comes out of the turbos. Its the easiest way to add more cooling capacity.
 
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Lowering the tstat only lowers the temp at which you start building too much heat. Once it's fully open its no different than stock and will peak the same.
 

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New here, but not new to the overheat problem. This will be my first post, and a long one. Theories and speculation on what's going on at the bottom. 2013 screw, stock with 140k when I first pulled my 26' tt last year. Rolling hills here in MI and about a whole 1000' ASL. Saw the temp gage start rising just trying to maintain 65 on the freeway. I've never had the dash warning, but I've locked out gears, kept the rpm up and boost down, and slowed way down to keep it that way. Replaced both rubber pieces on sides of the rad and did a total cooling system flush. That helped maybe a tiny amount.
Fast forward to this year. Did a whole lot of investigating and reading. Just did the intake valve cleaning and have some parts on the way. Rx catch can, cvf atlas, mishi 19 row oil cooler, Saudi trans cooler, 170° t stat, obd link to monitor. I'm hoping this will help. The last resort for easy mods is a new rad.
What we know happens, we get into boost and the temp goes through the roof. Vehicles are engineered to warm up fast for fuel efficiency. We know the engine oil cooler and coolant interact to warm each other. The coolant runs through the turbos and into the back of the head on recirc until the thermostat opens to warm it up faster, and this may be where the problem is. Turbos spooled up pushing tons of heat and being dumped into the back of the head where the temp sensor is. Get off the boost and turbos cool quickly and rush of cool coolant to the back of the head and temp sensor. It may also act as a safety for the turbo too. The whole system is designed to operate and play well with itself, and also save itself. We need to lower the temps into the turbos to lower them coming out, and into the head. Lowering t stat temp will lower temp into turbo. Lowering oil temp will take some load off the rad, and may help keep turbo cooler. Keeping trans temp down will take some load off the rad. More flow would be nice, but it's doubtful we'll get that. You could always put a small rad plumbed in before, or after each turbo... Let me know if any of my ramblings make any sense to all of you who know way more about this than I.
I would ditch that RX can. It’s not even the original creator of the system. Expensive, useless piece of junk. Very old news. Your other mods however are spot on. You will love the atlas intercooler. I would use the CC money to something more useful.

I have a Ford PTE coming out again this week. I may bother him a bit and get his input on the overheating problem. I’ve personally never witnessed it.

@DNA Dan is spot on about the thermostat. BCB actually made a great point about it to their customers. Also you want the truck to occasionally hit about 212. That allows the contaminants in the crankcase to be burned. If not then oil degradation is greatly increased.
 

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I literally was just talking to my boss today about adding a radiator that is only used to cool the coolant that comes out of the turbos. Its the easiest way to add more cooling capacity.
I'd like to see coolant temps entering and exiting the turbos. Temp sensor placement may be a safety switch to keep the turbos from burning themselves up. Rad after would probably let you keep in the boost just about forever, until the turbo melts. Or the temps are just fine coming out and it needs a rad, or to be dumped back to the main radiator. I wish they weren't being fed by the already warmed block coolant, but somehow tied into the loop to recirc until the t stat opens. Two small rads after the block and before the turbos would keep them happier, but may not do enough to keep the temps into the back of the heads in check. Round and round we go...
 

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Lowering the tstat only lowers the temp at which you start building too much heat. Once it's fully open its no different than stock and will peak the same.
It may be enough for me in the relatively flat, low area I live in though. It gives me 25° lower start temps which might give that headroom to be able to lock out 5 and 6, and hit the cruise at 65.
 

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It may be enough for me in the relatively flat, low area I live in though. It gives me 25° lower start temps which might give that headroom to be able to lock out 5 and 6, and hit the cruise at 65.
How hot was your coolant getting with the stock t-stat? Mine would routinely be at 215-220 which isnt a huge deal. its when I start seeing 240's that I get nervous.
 
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