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How hot was your coolant getting with the stock t-stat. Mine would routinely be at 215-220 which isnt a huge deal. its when I start seeing 240's that I get nervous.
Didn't have anything to monitor it but the stock gage that started on its fast climb to limp mode. I let off and downshifted before I got there. Monitored just driving around town with AC blasting in slow traffic with my handheld scanner in 85° temps and it was hovering around 210. I believe I have a 195 stat in there right now.
 

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Didn't have anything to monitor it but the stock gage that started on its fast climb to limp mode. I let off and downshifted before I got there. Monitored just driving around town with AC blasting in slow traffic with my handheld scanner in 85° temps and it was hovering around 210. I believe I have a 195 stat in there right now.
Depending on what the fans were up to that could explain the 210 temp while idling. The stock fan configuration does not turn them on until I believe 214F I believe.
 

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Depending on what the fans were up to that could explain the 210 temp while idling. The stock fan configuration does not turn them on until I believe 214F I believe.
That's what I figured. I could care less if it idles at 215 around town. Cruising down the road at 55-65 with tt in tow is when I want it cooler. Fans aren't doing me any good at that speed. Unless I'm riding the bumper of the vehicle in front of me. If that were the case I shouldn't be towing 6500# of trailer
 

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That's what I figured. I could care less if it idles at 215 around town. Cruising down the road at 55-65 with tt in tow is when I want it cooler. Fans aren't doing me any good at that speed. Unless I'm riding the bumper of the vehicle in front of me. If that were the case I shouldn't be towing 6500# of trailer
That is the solution we have all been after. I really didnt find anything that dramatically effected coolant temps until I installed the Mishimoto radaitor. I had a lower temp T-stat, 40% coolant/60% water with water wetter, big intercooler, big trans cooler, oil cooler, etc. None of those ever really changed the coolant temps for me. The radiator did seem to help as I was seeing 205 on the flats at 70mph on my last tow but it was also a relatively cool day.
 

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18 Plat Screw, FX4, 3.5, 10R80, max tow, stock tune, Mishi CAC no louvers, Mishi rad, 40/60 cool/H2O
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The fans on my truck scream on high at freeway speeds when it’s really hot out. I can’t imagine why Ford would run them this way if they didn’t improve flow through the stack vs shutting them down. The fans draw major current on high speed, which the alternator has to provide. That consumes hp.

Maybe they don’t help at highway speeds vs no fan or shroud assembly, but I’m betting they do help reduce pressure behind the stack since they are already there and “in the way”.

With the thicker Mishi rad (more pressure drop vs stock), I would bet the fans on high are even more important.
 

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The fans on my truck scream on high at freeway speeds when it’s really hot out. I can’t imagine why Ford would run them this way if they didn’t improve flow through the stack vs shutting them down. The fans draw major current on high speed, which the alternator has to provide. That consumes hp.

Maybe they don’t help at highway speeds vs no fan or shroud assembly, but I’m betting they do help reduce pressure behind the stack since they are already there and “in the way”.
this. but the tuning does not have a provision for speed unfortunately.
 

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Someone with $ to burn rig up two secondary rads before the turbos for us
 

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Someone with $ to burn rig up two secondary rads before the turbos for us
I think the pre turbo coolant temps are probably whatever temp is coming out of the radiator. The turbo coolant lines come out lower on the block near where the main coolant galley is and then the returns connect at the back of the heads. I think you gotta to a radiator post turbo to really get some good heat transfer. If that fluid is truely coming out at 250F or whatever, it will be a lot more effective than trying to cool 190-200F coolant.
 

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I think the pre turbo coolant temps are probably whatever temp is coming out of the radiator. The turbo coolant lines come out lower on the block near where the main coolant galley is and then the returns connect at the back of the heads. I think you gotta to a radiator post turbo to really get some good heat transfer. If that fluid is truely coming out at 250F or whatever, it will be a lot more effective than trying to cool 190-200F coolant.
Agreed. Unless it's a safety measure to keep from melting the turbos down.
 

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18 Plat Screw, FX4, 3.5, 10R80, max tow, stock tune, Mishi CAC no louvers, Mishi rad, 40/60 cool/H2O
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I think the pre turbo coolant temps are probably whatever temp is coming out of the radiator. The turbo coolant lines come out lower on the block near where the main coolant galley is and then the returns connect at the back of the heads. I think you gotta to a radiator post turbo to really get some good heat transfer. If that fluid is truely coming out at 250F or whatever, it will be a lot more effective than trying to cool 190-200F coolant.
If you have the coolant diverter/oil cooler arrangement, coolant temps into the water pump/engine are already elevated vs the radiator outlet. On the 10r80 trucks, tranny heat is also added pre-block and turbos. Engine sort of sucks “hind t$t” on coolant inlet temps.
 

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18 Plat Screw, FX4, 3.5, 10R80, max tow, stock tune, Mishi CAC no louvers, Mishi rad, 40/60 cool/H2O
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Still playing with the layout, but I really like this iPhone app. I need to get AGS position and fan speed on here. Altitude would be nice, too.

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in
 

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I haven't looked into routing the trans fluid through the open air cooler and then to the radiator to take that load more off the rad. Maybe a possibility?
 

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I haven't looked into routing the trans fluid through the open air cooler and then to the radiator to take that load more off the rad. Maybe a possibility?
I did that on mine. It was fine. It didnt run any hotter than without the radiator end tank. The only time it gets hotter is if you are going really slow and the fans are not on.

Edit: Sorry, I misread, i totally bypassed the trans cooler in the radiator and was only running the air cooler.
 

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2013 XLT 302A 145" Screw
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Still playing with the layout, but I really like this iPhone app. I need to get AGS position and fan speed on here. Altitude would be nice, too.

What is it called ?
 

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18 Plat Screw, FX4, 3.5, 10R80, max tow, stock tune, Mishi CAC no louvers, Mishi rad, 40/60 cool/H2O
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I took mass-hole’s advice and ordered an OBDLink MX+ dongle ($100 ouch) and downloaded the OBDLink app for the iPhone (free). I don’t have the dongle yet, so I am just playing with dashboard layouts from the generic PIDs. Once I have the dongle, I can download the Ford-specific PIDs (included with the price of the dongle) and customize the dashboard further.
 

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2013 XLT 302A 145" Screw
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I took mass-hole’s advice and ordered an OBDLink MX+ dongle ($100 ouch) and downloaded the OBDLink app for the iPhone (free). I don’t have the dongle yet, so I am just playing with dashboard layouts from the generic PIDs. Once I have the dongle, I can download the Ford-specific PIDs (included with the price of the dongle) and customize the dashboard further.
Sounds great. Where do you get the dongle ?
 

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I took mass-hole’s advice and ordered an OBDLink MX+ dongle ($100 ouch) and downloaded the OBDLink app for the iPhone (free). I don’t have the dongle yet, so I am just playing with dashboard layouts from the generic PIDs. Once I have the dongle, I can download the Ford-specific PIDs (included with the price of the dongle) and customize the dashboard further.
I ordered the same the other day. It's a lot cheaper than a bunch of gauges.
 
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I took mass-hole’s advice and ordered an OBDLink MX+ dongle ($100 ouch) and downloaded the OBDLink app for the iPhone (free). I don’t have the dongle yet, so I am just playing with dashboard layouts from the generic PIDs. Once I have the dongle, I can download the Ford-specific PIDs (included with the price of the dongle) and customize the dashboard further.
Just FYI the MX+ will work with the Forscan iphone app as well.
 

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I went for the SuperStant tstat. I think it's like 190 or so, only 4-5 degrees cooler. However my tests have shown that it has a larger opening when fully open. Which leads me to believe that we need more capacity AND flow when those turbos are smokin hot.
 
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It may be enough for me in the relatively flat, low area I live in though. It gives me 25° lower start temps which might give that headroom to be able to lock out 5 and 6, and hit the cruise at 65.
I hear ya, it will give some headroom. For me the downside was warming the truck up in winter. If you live where it snows, your oil will never reach temperature with a stat that is super low. Not good for the motor.
 
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