F150 Ecoboost Forum banner

1361 - 1380 of 1405 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
980 Posts
That is the solution we have all been after. I really didnt find anything that dramatically effected coolant temps until I installed the Mishimoto radaitor. I had a lower temp T-stat, 40% coolant/60% water with water wetter, big intercooler, big trans cooler, oil cooler, etc. None of those ever really changed the coolant temps for me. The radiator did seem to help as I was seeing 205 on the flats at 70mph on my last tow but it was also a relatively cool day.
So the long and skinny is the Mishi radiator did the job?
 

·
Registered
18 Plat Screw, FX4, 3.5, 10R80, max tow, stock tune, Mishi CAC no louvers, Mishi rad, 40/60 cool/H2O
Joined
·
197 Posts
For me it’s like most of the other mods I’ve done ... an improvement. By itself is it enough? Probably not. But with all of my mods collectively (and with more thoughtful driving), my truck performs much better than it did from a cooling perspective.

Can I still make it overheat? I have no doubt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
For me it’s like most of the other mods I’ve done ... an improvement. By itself is it enough? Probably not. But with all of my mods collectively (and with more thoughtful driving), my truck performs much better than it did from a cooling perspective.

Can I still make it overheat? I have no doubt.
Drop it into 10th, hit the cruise at 65 and drive up a grade in a headwind :ROFLMAO:
 
  • Like
Reactions: Arkansas Eco

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,114 Posts
For me it’s like most of the other mods I’ve done ... an improvement. By itself is it enough? Probably not. But with all of my mods collectively (and with more thoughtful driving), my truck performs much better than it did from a cooling perspective.

Can I still make it overheat? I have no doubt.
Same.

220F when its 70F outside and i have a tail wind suggests i could easily overheat mine in harsher conditions still.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,145 Posts
Very well put. With all the mods it's MANAGEABLE. But it needs to be actively monitored to prevent overheating for me.
 

·
Registered
18 Plat Screw, FX4, 3.5, 10R80, max tow, stock tune, Mishi CAC no louvers, Mishi rad, 40/60 cool/H2O
Joined
·
197 Posts
Here’s round 2 with the OBDLink MX+ and OBDLink iPhone app. This is my first attempt at a “live run”. Most of the dashboard works great. I still need to get the radiator AGS position working, and I also need to get fan speed on here somehow. (I know when they are on high by the jet engine sound, but I want an indicator on this dashboard.)

DE7958E0-7236-42D6-BD4C-FCB9404F6A7D.png


This particular run was up one of my favorite test hills heading north on I-15 out of St. George. Values are fairly “steady state” with cruise on about 80mph. Not a tough test with ambient around 90 degrees and no trailer, but not coasting, either.

For those who cringe at ECTs in the 220s, my truck is stock 195 degree tstat and stock tune. Fans were never on high and I’m sure AGS was much less than 100% open on this particular run. My truck ECT lives between about 210 and 225 all the time, winter or summer. I’m pretty sure that is by Ford design.

The best thing I see on this screenshot is the IAT and IAT2 values. The Mishi CAC, along with removing the AGS slats and front license plate, is far superior to the stock setup. I knew this from the Forscan runs I did late last summer, but this new run today reminded me.
 

·
Premium Member
2013 XLT 302A 145" Screw
Joined
·
3,208 Posts
Same.

220F when its 70F outside and i have a tail wind suggests i could easily overheat mine in harsher conditions still.
Man that is just crazy and makes no sense. Y'all have mostly dry air out there and seems like it would be easier to cool with it than this humid air we have here. Towing 8000 up up and up to pretty much anywhere I camp. 100% stock. Never an issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Maybe Ford designed these to run at hot temps to prevent build up on the backs of the valves? The extra heat would help burn any build up on the back of the valves up wouldn’t it? Maybe trying to get it to run cooler allows for more build up bc it’s not getting heated enough to solidify and turn to particulates?

Just a random thought.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Maybe Ford designed these to run at hot temps to prevent build up on the backs of the valves? The extra heat would help burn any build up on the back of the valves up wouldn’t it? Maybe trying to get it to run cooler allows for more build up bc it’s not getting heated enough to solidify and turn to particulates?

Just a random thought.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you got the valves hot enough to burn the carbon off you'd have some major issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Well the combustion process is what around 4500 degrees anyway right? Even if the valves were sodium filled to help with heat and weight some heat would still get passed through the valve stem. Maybe their thinking was bc were using direct injection instead of port injection a little extra heat will help with the coking we know is going to happen on the backs of the valves.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,114 Posts
Well the combustion process is what around 4500 degrees anyway right? Even if the valves were sodium filled to help with heat and weight some heat would still get passed through the valve stem. Maybe their thinking was bc were using direct injection instead of port injection a little extra heat will help with the coking we know is going to happen on the backs of the valves.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The 2017+ motors have port injection though, so you would think this wouldnt be an issue for the newer trucks but it clearly is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Unfortunately I am a 2016…but fortunately I don’t have any issues with that. I also am not at the altitudes and or under the towing conditions all of you seem to be.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,145 Posts
Pretty informative series this guy does using full-race products and CRP manifolds. You can tell he put a lot of thought into trying to keep the conditions similar. One mistake he makes is it seems in the "before" test the truck was idling before the test. So the initial IAT2 was pretty high when it started. The "after" test doesn't seem to start with IAT2 so high. Other than that, it's nice to see some actual data using some of these bolt on mods. This is part 7 of the series. The rest of the videos show his installation of the parts. Good stuff and pretty well done.

 
  • Like
Reactions: Blown F-150

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,145 Posts
I hear ya, it will give some headroom. For me the downside was warming the truck up in winter. If you live where it snows, your oil will never reach temperature with a stat that is super low. Not good for the motor.
I've been thinking about lower thermostats more and after seeing another youtube video with someone who put in a lower stat and a FR oil cooler they claim it dropped their max coolant temp by like 20 degrees. They threw out a theory that what's happening is the larger radiators are cooling the coolant so much it's closing the stock stat, but the outlet from the motor is smoking hot coolant when the turbos are dumping heat. I know there is a bypass in the thermostat housing and a mixing line, but is this possible? Could the CHT sensor be seeing 240+ degrees while the radiator output is marginally 200 degrees and fighting to keep the thermostat closed?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,114 Posts
I've been thinking about lower thermostats more and after seeing another youtube video with someone who put in a lower stat and a FR oil cooler they claim it dropped their max coolant temp by like 20 degrees. They threw out a theory that what's happening is the larger radiators are cooling the coolant so much it's closing the stock stat, but the outlet from the motor is smoking hot coolant when the turbos are dumping heat. I know there is a bypass in the thermostat housing and a mixing line, but is this possible? Could the CHT sensor be seeing 240+ degrees while the radiator output is marginally 200 degrees and fighting to keep the thermostat closed?
I think there was some discussion about this a while back and that the way the stat was designed there was always some amount of hot side coolant flow coming through the “tube” to the tstat motor.

I dont see how the cold coolant would have zero effect though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
I sorta lucked out and read the entire thread before I joined over the course of 2 days. There was something back in the thread about the cooler temps closing the stat. It was also discussed that even with the stat at open there is a small amount of hot coolant coming up through the center that should in theory keep it open.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
And just to get the info out there. Cruising down the freeway at 75 with nothing in tow ambient was 90° I saw the following temps. Trans 205f, ait 110f, ECT 214. Truck is as stock as it gets minus the Toyo open country at3, level, and mbrp 3".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
that was the thing that drove me insane, cruse set at 70 mph empty on the hwy my ECT would hover around 215 to 220, towing the same route, same speed, cruse set 70 mph locked out of 8 9 10 gears my ECT would hover around 215 to 220,on grade maybe a touch higher, I tow 3 trailers from 5k to 10k, 18' flat bed, 8x12 enclosed cargo trailer, and a 14K dump trailer, (no RV) so it's not apples to apples, I dropped in a Mishimoto CAC/Intercooler ,170 degree T-Stat (RAT-4D), NGauge w/ 5 Star Tunes all at the same time, and now cruising the route I rarely see 200 ECT towing some grades I might see 205, and after adding those mods plus a Leer Sport Cap I lost 4 mpg, I've' come to the conclusion that things are designed or meant to run hot for FE
 

·
Registered
18 Plat Screw, FX4, 3.5, 10R80, max tow, stock tune, Mishi CAC no louvers, Mishi rad, 40/60 cool/H2O
Joined
·
197 Posts
Here’s where I landed on my gauge layout in the OBDLink iPhone app. I think everything works now. Ranges/color coding are subject to further tweaks, but right now they are my best guesses related to heavy towing based on my experience.

Top row of gauges covers the critical driver inputs. We all know the balancing act between RPM, trans gear, MPH, and turbo boost.

Middle left is all I need to know about the CAC performance. Air temp out of the air box, and air temp into the manifold. Either the CAC is doing its job, or it’s not.

Middle right is what I believe are 2 key environmental parameters. What’s the ambient air temp, and what’s the altitude (roughly tied to barometric pressure). Gauge runs from sea level to 12,000ft in 3,000ft increments.

Bottom row is the 2 key concerns. ECT and TFT. Also, a couple of FYI parameters for AGS % open and fans on hi.

My plan is to take screen shots as “data acquisition” when I’m towing this summer and share results.

Any other parameters worth logging?

D51FC854-9A80-4F3C-A902-C4498599BA3A.png
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,114 Posts
Here’s where I landed on my gauge layout in the OBDLink iPhone app. I think everything works now. Ranges/color coding are subject to further tweaks, but right now they are my best guesses related to heavy towing based on my experience.

Top row of gauges covers the critical driver inputs. We all know the balancing act between RPM, trans gear, MPH, and turbo boost.

Middle left is all I need to know about the CAC performance. Air temp out of the air box, and air temp into the manifold. Either the CAC is doing its job, or it’s not.

Middle right is what I believe are 2 key environmental parameters. What’s the ambient air temp, and what’s the altitude (roughly tied to barometric pressure). Gauge runs from sea level to 12,000ft in 3,000ft increments.

Bottom row is the 2 key concerns. ECT and TFT. Also, a couple of FYI parameters for AGS % open and fans on hi.

My plan is to take screen shots as “data acquisition” when I’m towing this summer and share results.

Any other parameters worth logging?

View attachment 172716
I like to log load and use that to gauge when to shift. I will let the truck run up to about 1.5 load and if it starts to exceed that I downshift. Then of course KR and OAR are some favorites of mine but they wont really tell you too much other than if you have crappy fuel or not.
 
1361 - 1380 of 1405 Posts
Top