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Here’s round 2 with the OBDLink MX+ and OBDLink iPhone app. This is my first attempt at a “live run”. Most of the dashboard works great. I still need to get the radiator AGS position working, and I also need to get fan speed on here somehow. (I know when they are on high by the jet engine sound, but I want an indicator on this dashboard.)

View attachment 172707

This particular run was up one of my favorite test hills heading north on I-15 out of St. George. Values are fairly “steady state” with cruise on about 80mph. Not a tough test with ambient around 90 degrees and no trailer, but not coasting, either.

For those who cringe at ECTs in the 220s, my truck is stock 195 degree tstat and stock tune. Fans were never on high and I’m sure AGS was much less than 100% open on this particular run. My truck ECT lives between about 210 and 225 all the time, winter or summer. I’m pretty sure that is by Ford design.

The best thing I see on this screenshot is the IAT and IAT2 values. The Mishi CAC, along with removing the AGS slats and front license plate, is far superior to the stock setup. I knew this from the Forscan runs I did late last summer, but this new run today reminded me.
Just did a little drive around town picking a few things up with obdlink. For some reason my boost is not reading right. 10psi in drive stopped, and 35psi when I got on it. Did you have to do anything to yours to get it to read right?

It's also 94° and while sitting in line at Costco for gas my ECT hit 237. Put it in neutral and bumped the throttle and it immediately dropped to 217. I think I might eliminate my stock oil cooler when I install the mishi to help with flow, and take some load off the cooling system.
 

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Just did a little drive around town picking a few things up with obdlink. For some reason my boost is not reading right. 10psi in drive stopped, and 35psi when I got on it. Did you have to do anything to yours to get it to read right?

It's also 94° and while sitting in line at Costco for gas my ECT hit 237. Put it in neutral and bumped the throttle and it immediately dropped to 217. I think I might eliminate my stock oil cooler when I install the mishi to help with flow, and take some load off the cooling system.

subtract 14.7 psi
 

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18 Plat Screw, FX4, 3.5, 10R80, max tow, stock tune, Mishi CAC no louvers, Mishi rad, 40/60 cool/H2O
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Just did a little drive around town picking a few things up with obdlink. For some reason my boost is not reading right. 10psi in drive stopped, and 35psi when I got on it. Did you have to do anything to yours to get it to read right?

It's also 94° and while sitting in line at Costco for gas my ECT hit 237. Put it in neutral and bumped the throttle and it immediately dropped to 217. I think I might eliminate my stock oil cooler when I install the mishi to help with flow, and take some load off the cooling system.
Use the “Boost” PID in the “calculated” section.

I can’t imagine hitting 237 ECT idling. Either mechanical or data issue. I get ECT from the Ford transmission control module. I couldn’t find it anywhere else.

Both of these PIDs match my factory digital dash exactly.
 

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Use the “Boost” PID in the “calculated” section.

I can’t imagine hitting 237 ECT idling. Either mechanical or data issue. I get ECT from the Ford transmission control module. I couldn’t find it anywhere else.

Both of these PIDs match my factory digital dash gauges exactly.
The 237 idling was legit. I looked at it and thought that can't be right, then looked at my dash gage and it had creeped up from it's normal resting place. Like I said, put it in neutral and just bumped the throttle real quick to 1krpm and it instantly went down.
 

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That was also the boost reading from the calculated section. Hmm, got some digging to do.
 

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18 Plat Screw, FX4, 3.5, 10R80, max tow, stock tune, Mishi CAC no louvers, Mishi rad, 40/60 cool/H2O
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That was also the boost reading from the calculated section. Hmm, got some digging to do.
Sorry if this is a dumb question, but did you download the Ford specific PIDs and select the 2013 F150? I couldn’t get anything to work right until I did that.
 

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Sorry if this is a dumb question, but did you download the Ford specific PIDs and select the 2013 F150? I couldn’t get anything to work right until I did that.
Yeah, I did. I'll double check to make sure it was reading them. Thanks.
 

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Just did a little drive around town picking a few things up with obdlink. For some reason my boost is not reading right. 10psi in drive stopped, and 35psi when I got on it. Did you have to do anything to yours to get it to read right?

It's also 94° and while sitting in line at Costco for gas my ECT hit 237. Put it in neutral and bumped the throttle and it immediately dropped to 217. I think I might eliminate my stock oil cooler when I install the mishi to help with flow, and take some load off the cooling system.
It sounds like it may be logging MAP possibly? Absolute pressure?

I dont log boost, i log MAP because MAP tells you the actual pressure in the manifold. Boost tells you the gauge pressure, which is usually relative to sea level(14.7 psi). Im not sure the boost pid compensates for altitude.
 
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18 Plat Screw, FX4, 3.5, 10R80, max tow, stock tune, Mishi CAC no louvers, Mishi rad, 40/60 cool/H2O
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I chose to display boost because it matched what I was seeing on the dash gauge, and one of my thoughts is to try and establish the driving parameters that give me the most stable cooling performance while towing. I don’t intend to drive with the iPhone display all the time, so I want to know what works the best with what I see on the factory display.

Just a preference on my part.
 

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18 Plat Screw, FX4, 3.5, 10R80, max tow, stock tune, Mishi CAC no louvers, Mishi rad, 40/60 cool/H2O
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Anyone ever try this approach to getting radiator inlet and outlet temps? Seems to me these would stick well to the Mishi aluminum end tank right near or at the hose connections. I would really like to have this temp data.

2FF12D21-D416-425F-ACF2-8332D4CF4948.png


Would have to have a k-type temp gauge with at least 2 inputs, and maybe a couple of extension cables to get the signals in to the cab.
 

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Anyone ever try this approach to getting radiator inlet and outlet temps? Seems to me these would stick well to the Mishi aluminum end tank right near or at the hose connections. I would really like to have this temp data.

View attachment 172738

Would have to have a k-type temp gauge with at least 2 inputs, and maybe a couple of extension cables to get the signals in to the cab.
I thought about that. I used to have access to all these thermocouples and an 8 channel standalone data logger, but I dont work at the office anymore so I cant swipe them for a weekend.
 

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Anyone ever try this approach to getting radiator inlet and outlet temps? Seems to me these would stick well to the Mishi aluminum end tank right near or at the hose connections. I would really like to have this temp data.

View attachment 172738

Would have to have a k-type temp gauge with at least 2 inputs, and maybe a couple of extension cables to get the signals in to the cab.
That's certainly easier than cutting a coupler with a probe port into the water hose . Thanks for the tip!
 

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It sounds like it may be logging MAP possibly? Absolute pressure?

I dont log boost, i log MAP because MAP tells you the actual pressure in the manifold. Boost tells you the gauge pressure, which is usually relative to sea level(14.7 psi). Im not sure the boost pid compensates for altitude.
Tried every pid I could find in there and all would read boost + 14.7. I don't necessarily need it to read 0-20, but I'm sure I'm doing something wrong.
 

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Anyone ever try this approach to getting radiator inlet and outlet temps? Seems to me these would stick well to the Mishi aluminum end tank right near or at the hose connections. I would really like to have this temp data.

View attachment 172738

Would have to have a k-type temp gauge with at least 2 inputs, and maybe a couple of extension cables to get the signals in to the cab.
I've got a temp probe that goes with my multimeter... I could just mount that to my hood lol
 

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Tried every pid I could find in there and all would read boost + 14.7. I don't necessarily need it to read 0-20, but I'm sure I'm doing something wrong.
This is how mine is setup.

594B49D5-A560-44AE-9040-E731A3F64350.jpeg


C0373DE9-7C8B-4A37-BA19-A217C0BDE091.jpeg


683123E9-4D3B-46FD-A719-5AB676E1FA12.jpeg


I will test again in the next few days since it is going to be 110+ here.
 

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Yep, that's how mine is set up, well one of them, tried all of them. Reads 10psi at idle. Surprised there's not a way to offset, or calibrate the gage reading.
Why dont you guys use either the SAE PID or the Ford enhanced download PID for boost?

Either that or make your own pid from the sae for MAP minus Barometric.
 

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Saudi cooler arrived today, cvf cac yesterday, mishi thermostatic oil cooler on the way, said eff it and ordered the mishi radiator. Going to be a busy father's day weekend. Wondering if I want to just pull the whole front bumper off for this fun project.
 
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