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Why dont you guys use either the SAE PID or the Ford enhanced download PID for boost?
Tried them, got the same reading from all of them. Boost + 14.7
 

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Tried them, got the same reading from all of them. Boost + 14.7
So make a custom PID. The addresses and equations for the SAE PIDs can be found on Wikipedia.
 
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18 Plat Screw, FX4, 3.5, 10R80, max tow, stock tune, Mishi CAC no louvers, Mishi rad, 40/60 cool/H2O
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Been doing some additional testing with OBDLink. It’s 107 here today, so I’m logging some performance data and shaking down my OBDLink gauge setup.

I am having 2 issues:

IAT2 looks right. IAT, which I thought was just downstream of the filter box, does not look right. It looks more like a temp sensor in the inlet manifold, itself. Is there an OBDLink PID for the temp sensor downstream of the filter box? IAT1? Seems like there is in Forscan.

The PIDs I’m using for HiFan and LoFan are doing nothing. No data. Any ideas on which OBDLink PIDs I should be using to monitor fans?


The Mishi radiator still looks like it is doing great. No issues flying uphill on I-15 at 107 degrees. I can hear the fans on high, and the AGS is 100%. No ECT over about 225, even with 5-10 psi boost. Continues to be encouraging.

I ordered a digital thermometer that reads 2 k-type thermocouples. It comes with 2 thermocouples that attach to the surface with high temp tape. Also, ordered some thermocouple wire and connectors to route the signals into the cab. My plan is to capture radiator inlet/outlet temps. Not sure how well this will work, but I’m going to give it a try.
 

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Been doing some additional testing with OBDLink. It’s 107 here today, so I’m logging some performance data and shaking down my OBDLink gauge setup.

I am having 2 issues:

IAT2 looks right. IAT, which I thought was just downstream of the filter box, does not look right. It looks more like a temp sensor in the inlet manifold, itself. Is there an OBDLink PID for the temp sensor downstream of the filter box? IAT1? Seems like there is in Forscan.

The PIDs I’m using for HiFan and LoFan are doing nothing. No data. Any ideas on which OBDLink PIDs I should be using to monitor fans?


The Mishi radiator still looks like it is doing great. No issues flying uphill on I-15 at 107 degrees. I can hear the fans on high, and the AGS is 100%. No ECT over about 225, even with 5-10 psi boost. Continues to be encouraging.

I ordered a digital thermometer that reads 2 k-type thermocouples. It comes with 2 thermocouples that attach to the surface with high temp tape. Also, ordered some thermocouple wire and connectors to route the signals into the cab. My plan is to capture radiator inlet/outlet temps. Not sure how well this will work, but I’m going to give it a try.
I logged a little bit today, but wasn't towing. Pretty standard stuff in 85° ambient. It's pretty much all stock right now. Mishi rad on the way, mishi thermostatic oil cooler here, Saudi trans cooler here, 170 t stat here, cvf atlas here. It'll be a busy weekend.
 

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18 Plat Screw, FX4, 3.5, 10R80, max tow, stock tune, Mishi CAC no louvers, Mishi rad, 40/60 cool/H2O
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IAT2 looks right. IAT, which I thought was just downstream of the filter box, does not look right. It looks more like a temp sensor in the inlet manifold, itself. Is there an OBDLink PID for the temp sensor downstream of the filter box? IAT1? Seems like there is in Forscan.
I think I figured this one out. It is so hot here today, and the engine compartment is really hot, that the inlet air ductwork is transferring lots of heat to the inlet air. The truck has been sitting in the garage for over an hour, and the plastic ductwork still registers over 130 degrees on my IR thermometer.

With the inlet air entering at 105+, and with limited inlet air flow, the ductwork is heating the air to about 115 at IAT1, the turbos are adding more heat, and IAT2 is still 115-120 even after the Mishi CAC. I think the OBDLink gauge values are right.

I still would like to solve the fanhi fanlo PID issue.
 

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2013 XLT 302A 145" Screw
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Towed with cruise set at 54 mph on hilly curvy 2 lane blacktop today, 93*F, ~65% humidity. ~8000 lbs. Manual mode, mostly in 4th, going to 3rd on hills. Tranny temp never exceeded 203*F. 100% stock except taller heavier tires.
 

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Towed with cruise set at 54 mph on hilly curvy 2 lane blacktop today, 93*F, ~65% humidity. ~8000 lbs. Manual mode, mostly in 4th, going to 3rd on hills. Tranny temp never exceeded 203*F. 100% stock except taller heavier tires.
What about coolant? Trans has never been an issue for me.
 

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On my 2013 I guess I assumed the transmission fluid flow was into the radiator first and then into the aux cooler. Can someone confirm the flow direction for me?
 

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On my 2013 I guess I assumed the transmission fluid flow was into the radiator first and then into the aux cooler. Can someone confirm the flow direction for me?

Post #53 towards the bottom.
 
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What about coolant? Trans has never been an issue for me.
IDK. Haven't a way to monitor it. Dummy gauge never moved from slightly less that half-gauge. No loss of power or limp.
 

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18 Plat Screw, FX4, 3.5, 10R80, max tow, stock tune, Mishi CAC no louvers, Mishi rad, 40/60 cool/H2O
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Completed my first test using thermocouples to log various cooling system temps. This was just a first attempt to see if I could make it all work.

I ran a couple of thermocouple wire runs (extensions) through a grommet on the firewall. This allows me to get 2 signals into the cab from various areas of the engine bay.

Meter is an Amprobe TMD-53 from Amazon. It came with 2 little button style k-type TC’s. I calibrated everything against a fairly high-end Extech unit I use for HVAC work. Everything was within 0.5 degrees at about 72 in my house. I also checked the setup in boiling water. Reading was 208 degrees, which is spot on for our elevation of just under 3,000ft.

My first simple test was nudging one of the little TC’s under the cooling system return line to the radiator right at the radiator inlet. I loosened the clamp just enough to get the bead under the clamp area of the hose. This should have provided pretty good contact between the TC bead and the aluminum radiator hose connection.

4C3E50FE-8FFA-463A-938B-3572BA82770D.jpeg


The purpose of this test was simply to compare the temperature of the coolant at the radiator inlet vs. the ECT reading from the computer. Why? Just wanted to know if the ECT reading really does reflect the actual return coolant temperature, or is it some other value inferred from multiple other inputs.

The answer is, no matter the ECT displayed on my dash, the actual reading was always about 6-8 degrees less. Even at 229 ECT, which was the hottest I got to on my test run. Also, my measured temps reacted fairly quickly to changes right along with the dash ECT. I expected some lag, but there was no more than a few seconds at most. When the dash ECT shoots up under heavy boost, the coolant at the radiator inlet is right there.

I’m thinking the difference (6-8 degrees lower than the dash ECT) is primarily related to the location of my TC being on the outside of the aluminum return nozzle vs. directly in the coolant stream. Maybe also the hose length between the engine and the radiator losing a degree or 2 along the way. Regardless, my conclusion is the ECT displayed on my digital dash, and also by Forscan and OBDLink PIDs, is an accurate reflection of what is heading back to the radiator (just in case anyone besides me was curious).

My next test will be to suspend one TC behind each of the 2 radiator fans. I am curious just how “saturated” the cooling air flow really is traveling through the thicker Mishi core. The fan nearest the radiator inlet should exhaust hotter air. The fan nearest the outlet should be less hot. We shall see. This test I will do later this afternoon when ambient temps are pushing 110, so a pretty good check I think.

Final test will be radiator outlet temps. Maybe tomorrow.
 

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Completed my first test using thermocouples to log various cooling system temps. This was just a first attempt to see if I could make it all work.

I ran a couple of thermocouple wire runs (extensions) through a grommet on the firewall. This allows me to get 2 signals into the cab from various areas of the engine bay.

Meter is an Amprobe TMD-53 from Amazon. It came with 2 little button style k-type TC’s. I calibrated everything against a fairly high-end Extech unit I use for HVAC work. Everything was within 0.5 degrees at about 72 in my house. I also checked the setup in boiling water. Reading was 208 degrees, which is spot on for our elevation of just under 3,000ft.

My first simple test was nudging one of the little TC’s under the cooling system return line to the radiator right at the radiator inlet. I loosened the clamp just enough to get the bead under the clamp area of the hose. This should have provided pretty good contact between the TC bead and the aluminum radiator hose connection.

View attachment 172767

The purpose of this test was simply to compare the temperature of the coolant at the radiator inlet vs. the ECT reading from the computer. Why? Just wanted to know if the ECT reading really does reflect the actual return coolant temperature, or is it some other value inferred from multiple other inputs.

The answer is, no matter the ECT displayed on my dash, the actual reading was always about 6-8 degrees less. Even at 229 ECT, which was the hottest I got to on my test run. Also, my measured temps reacted fairly quickly to changes right along with the dash ECT. I expected some lag, but there was no more than a few seconds at most. When the dash ECT shoots up under heavy boost, the coolant at the radiator inlet is right there.

I’m thinking the difference (6-8 degrees lower than the dash ECT) is primarily related to the location of my TC being on the outside of the aluminum return nozzle vs. directly in the coolant stream. Maybe also the hose length between the engine and the radiator losing a degree or 2 along the way. Regardless, my conclusion is the ECT displayed on my digital dash, and also by Forscan and OBDLink PIDs, is an accurate reflection of what is heading back to the radiator (just in case anyone besides me was curious).

My next test will be to suspend one TC behind each of the 2 radiator fans. I am curious just how “saturated” the cooling air flow really is traveling through the thicker Mishi core. The fan nearest the radiator inlet should exhaust hotter air. The fan nearest the outlet should be less hot. We shall see. This test I will do later this afternoon when ambient temps are pushing 110, so a pretty good check I think.

Final test will be radiator outlet temps. Maybe tomorrow.
Think you could get the coolant temp exiting the engine oil cooler to go with your rad outlet temp? That'd give a good idea of how much that's dumping into the block before the coolant gets into actual circulation
 

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Classicrockguy ROCKS! Another test would be the delta between the coolant crossover pipe where the turbos dump into the head and the radiator outlet pipe. You could then work the turbos hard and see how quickly the crossover pipe goes up vs. the radiator outlet temperature. Might show a long lag here when working the turbos? That would be indicative of poor flow (water pump). Same test with a downshift would also generate useful data.

I'd also be interested in the radiator outlet coolant before and after the stock oil cooler when working the motor to see if that is seriously handicapping the coolant temp a lot or just minimal.
 

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Classicrockguy ROCKS! Another test would be the delta between the coolant crossover pipe where the turbos dump into the head and the radiator outlet pipe. You could then work the turbos hard and see how quickly the crossover pipe goes up vs. the radiator outlet temperature. Might show a long lag here when working the turbos? That would be indicative of poor flow (water pump). Same test with a downshift would also generate useful data.

I'd also be interested in the radiator outlet coolant before and after the stock oil cooler when working the motor to see if that is seriously handicapping the coolant temp a lot or just minimal.
Hoping to install my mishi 19 row oil cooler this weekend and the thermostatic plate has an 1/8 port that I should be able to pull temp off from with a cheap gage. I'm interested in how much that oil cooler is working, and if I can eliminate it running the mishi cooler.
 

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18 Plat Screw, FX4, 3.5, 10R80, max tow, stock tune, Mishi CAC no louvers, Mishi rad, 40/60 cool/H2O
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Just finished another test run. This time the TC’s were dangling in the cooling fan exhaust airflow. One on the rad inlet side fan, and one on the rad outlet side fan.

5ACDC47D-6C21-4A26-A09A-7CB9D42CAF05.jpeg


0A8BF532-028A-4001-8E9D-486E8AA1B3D5.jpeg


Ambient was 103-104 degrees. Uphill on I-15 70-80mph. 10th gear (mostly). Fans and ac on high the whole time. Boost 0-10 psi. ECT was 220’s, max 228.

Highest average fan exhaust air temp on the rad inlet side was 183 degrees. Highest on the outlet side was 115 degrees. Most of the time, outlet side was 105-108 degrees … barely over ambient!

Under these conditions, I would have to conclude the Mishi rad was running well within its capacity. Rad outlet temps can’t be very high with fan exhaust air only a few degrees over ambient. And, they can’t be less than ambient.

I will try to get some rad outlet temps tomorrow once I figure out a good way to attach the TC. No rubber hose clamp on that side to slip it under, so I’m thinking aluminum tape with high temp adhesive.

There are some caveats with this test vs. towing. The 2 main ones are 1) 65mph towing means less airflow vs. 70-80mph and 2) higher rpms while towing in lower gears means more hot coolant flow through the rad which means higher average rad temps. I’m not sure how these differences will play out, but I suspect they will both lead to higher radiator outlet temps. Does this trade off with higher rad heat transfer (higher avg core temp) and higher coolant flow through the block scavenging heat? Hmm.
 

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Crazy idea, but you guys with the 2015+ trucks may have an option for a mechanical cooling fan. I remembered that the F150 Powerstroke has a mechanical cooling fan but uses the same size radiator as a Max-tow 3.5L. Heres the parts diagram for the PSD:

172778


And here is the radiator setup:

172779


It looks like the radiator is the same exact part number which means you could even mount this shroud to the mishimoto/FR radiator. I wonder if there was any 3.5L or 3.7L water pump that had a mechanical fan pulley on it?

It looks like an electric fan clutch too, so you could probably trigger the clutch using the cooling fan wiring.
 
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I’ve been going back and forth with OBDLink tech support and they verified the PIDs for fan lo and fan hi are per Ford spec. Here’s what I get in OBDLink.

E76DB3C9-30FB-4EF8-A255-39BA324EF176.png


They suggested I try the FORScan PIDs HFC/LFC and they do not work, either. Everything keeps saying 0’s (off) when I have the engine running, hood open, and fans are screaming on high.

36A5F008-3368-4228-8E4F-651AE23B9B91.jpeg


Has anyone else with a 2018 3.5 eco been able to get fan hi and fan low to work in any OBD reader?
 

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I’ve been going back and forth with OBDLink tech support and they verified the PIDs for fan lo and fan hi are per Ford spec. Here’s what I get in OBDLink.

View attachment 172781

They suggested I try the FORScan PIDs HFC/LFC and they do not work, either. Everything keeps saying 0’s (off) when I have the engine running, hood open, and fans are screaming on high.

View attachment 172780

Has anyone else with a 2018 3.5 eco been able to get fan hi and fan low to work in any OBD reader?
I thought to 2015+ trucks had PWM controlled fans and no longer have a hi/lo setting?
 
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