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Interesting that GM had a trans issue even though the ECT appeared to be totally normal. Bean counters suck, and I'm sure fellow engineers at auto makers would agree.
 

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Interesting that GM had a trans issue even though the ECT appeared to be totally normal. Bean counters suck, and I'm sure fellow engineers at auto makers would agree.
I have no idea what GM uses for transmission cooling since they went to the 10 speed. But the Tundra went to the oil/liquid exchanger similar to how Ford does it now and when they did the IKe it got up to like 245+ even though the engine coolant was ok.

I had my truck get hot on a similar climb at a similar speed. Not the transmission but the coolant. I was running my heater the whole way up the hill and my truck was sitting around 240 most of the climb.
 

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I'm a pretty firm believer that ford dumped the hot coolant where they did to keep you from cooking the turbos, or oil going through the turbos. If you put a cooler after them and before the block you'll likely trick the temp sensor, but your turbos and manifolds may get torched.
Good point. Would have to find a way to keep that sensor inline. I'm still leaning towards adding a booster electric pump in the lower radiator hose and removing the restrictors on the short cycle circuit. I think if you bump the flow things would improve greatly.
 

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So it looks to me like the GM's have a transmission air cooler but possibly not a liquid/oil cooler? Unless the liquid cooler is on the transmission and just is not shown but I cannot find it anywhere. This is how I had my truck setup for a while.

173357

So my guess is the issue was slow speeds and not enough fans. This is exactly why I didnt wanna delete the oem oil cooler when I installed the Setrab.
 

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So it looks to me like the GM's have a transmission air cooler but possibly not a liquid/oil cooler? Unless the liquid cooler is on the transmission and just is not shown but I cannot find it anywhere. This is how I had my truck setup for a while.

View attachment 173357
So my guess is the issue was slow speeds and not enough fans. This is exactly why I didnt wanna delete the oem oil cooler when I installed the Setrab.
I would agree, however if that cooler is in front of the rad, it should be getting airflow from the fan. They had to sit for 25 minutes and the temp only reduced by 50* or something. Maybe it's behind the rad and getting "hot" air?
 

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I would agree, however if that cooler is in front of the rad, it should be getting airflow from the fan. They had to sit for 25 minutes and the temp only reduced by 50* or something. Maybe it's behind the rad and getting "hot" air?
Or there was maybe no flow through the cooler while sitting? Some rpm may have helped?
 

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Or there was maybe no flow through the cooler while sitting? Some rpm may have helped?
And i almost wonder if that is why it got so hot in the first place. The engine probably was not revving all that hard to do 30 mph.
 

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And it was Chevys top of the line 6.2L V8 pulling 7k on a flatbed trailer?....not so good. View attachment 173358

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As much as I hate to admit it, yes, 300F transmission temps are worse than any overheating my truck has ever had lol
 
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Meaz just gloated!

I knew I could count on him.

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Since this is an intelligent conversation ...
I will tow as slow as I need to be comfortable and not damage my pickup.
I'm on vacation and in no hurry.
Those haters sharing the road with me can pay closer attention to my salute out the window. They can return the salute when I pull up behind them at the campground check-in line or at the gas pump.
Also, I do understand your issues and frustration and would love to see you all get them solved. It might be in the form of a powerstroke.
 

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Limp Mode/"Fail Safe Cooling" : (in current 2021 Ford-speak)

Fail Safe Cooling


A strategy called Fail Safe Cooling is built into the PCM that will control the engine if it starts to
overheat.

Stage 1 of the strategy commences if the engine starts to overheat. The CHT sensor transmits a signal to the PCM , which moves the temperature gauge pointer into the red zone. If the engine is not switched off and the temperature continues to rise, the Powertrain Check Lamp is illuminated. This indicates to the driver that the engine is approaching critical limits and should be
stopped. At this point DTC P1285 is set in the PCM which can be retrieved using a scan tool.

Stage 2 of the strategy commences if the lamp and temperature gauge are ignored by the driver. The PCM will start to control the engine by cutting out 3 cylinders and restricting engine speed below 3,000 RPM. Simultaneously the MIL illuminates. This indicates that long term engine damage can occur and vehicle emissions will be affected. At this point DTC P1299 is set in the PCM which can be retrieved using a scan tool.
Air is drawn into the deactivated cylinders. This helps to control the temperature of the engine internal components. The deactivated cylinders are alternated to allow even cooling of all the cylinders.

NOTE: If the driver is using a high percentage of throttle travel (for example, an overtaking maneuver) when the PCM starts engine deactivation (Stage 2), the deactivation will be delayed for 10 seconds.

NOTE: After 3-cylinder operation has begun, the engine will not revert to 6-cylinder operation, even if the temperature should fall, until the ignition is switched off and then on again.

NOTE: The MIL can only be extinguished by using a scan tool after the fault has been rectified and the DTC cleared.

Stage 3 of the strategy will commence if the engine temperature continues to rise. This results in the engine being totally disabled before major engine damage or seizure occurs. The Powertrain Check Lamp will begin to flash, indicating to the driver that the engine will be switched off after 30 seconds. This allows the driver time to choose a suitable parking place.

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I know that's for 2021, but stage 2 sounds like what I experienced. Nothing like pulling 8K on the ball with a heat soaked 3 cylinder engine :poop: At least I know my PCM works okay!
 
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I know that's for 2021, but stage 2 sounds like what I experienced. Nothing like pulling 8K on the ball with a heat soaked 3 cylinder engine :poop: At least I know my PCM works okay!
Same. My truck just totally killed power half way up the hill and dropped down to 20 mph until i pulled off the road.

I had no idea it was even hot. There was no warning light or dings or anything prior to the power reduction. Just the temp gauge silently moving into the red.

Andre’s truck did not seem to go to 3 cylinder mode though. His kept chugging along at 50-55 mph i am pretty sure. His truck was only 20 seconds slower than the Duramax up the hill.
 

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I'm sure that there are differences in the 2021 failsafe strategies from the 2020 and the 2014. But I bet there's far more similarities.

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I'm surprised it doesn't say anything about opening the waste gates. That'd be pretty effective at reducing power and cooling down. Maybe it does but doesn't want to confuse customers with fancy technical speak...
 

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I know that's for 2021, but stage 2 sounds like what I experienced. Nothing like pulling 8K on the ball with a heat soaked 3 cylinder engine :poop: At least I know my PCM works okay!
Agreed for when mine hit reduced power mode as well. Seems like they added some "early detection" logic to make for a better driving experience.
 

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Jeez it’s just a light duty work truck. Auto manufacturers are going way overboard with this computer stuff. How about just giving us a cooling system that matches the engine capabilities. This fancy stuff sounds like a way to cut cost while still being able to brag about capabilities.
 

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Jeez it’s just a light duty work truck. Auto manufacturers are going way overboard with this computer stuff. How about just giving us a cooling system that matches the engine capabilities. This fancy stuff sounds like a way to cut cost while still being able to brag about capabilities.
Exactly what it is. And there's the whole EPA crap they have to deal with. Bean counters suck sometimes.
 

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I'm maybe a little less cynical about the complexity of all this. I'm not defending complexity for the sake of complexity, but I think we might underestimate just how much sophistication is actually REQUIRED to operate a motor like the 3.5 Ecoboost.

I also believe that while we can scratch our heads sometimes and think "what were they thinking?", if you look at it from another perspective you can't help but notice that there must be some REALLY REALLY smart people working at Ford.

Boostking's posts are the perspective that I am pointing out. I don't want to put words in his mouth but guys like him and Matt at GearHead are the kind of people that in an effort to speak to someone like me about what is underlying in these trucks, they may not know it but the one thing that I DO understand that they are conveying is that Ford did some AMAZING engineering.

My 2021 Hybrid is just a huge leap in bringing even more of that engineering prowess to the consumer. I'm currently digesting some of what is in it from Fords own documentation. It's mind blowing.

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