Also, it's been said that it's better to get the barbs as close to the turbo as possible. During my install I actually removed the drivers side pipe and drilled it so I could get closer. It takes maybe an extra 10 minutes of your time to do so and honestly I think it's worth it. Actually doing it on both sides would be a decent idea, the drivers side is a little easier to get to IMO though.
Correct straw. Every inch away form the turbo inlet itself towards the air filter will reduce the actual measured suction (vacuum) substantially. Good move.
And for those following the fuel/water in the oil issues, this also eliminates that as well.
Here is a good video for any on the fence:
And we still have the standing challenge to any other can someone may be using, install a RX can between ANY cans outlet and the IM vacuum barb and the RX can will show what is getting past any other design. Plain and simple undeniable results. In most cases the RX can will catch as much or more than the primary can making it a good demonstration in design and function.
As soon as temps are above 45*F steadily you will see far less of the water present, but this is also a great example of the oil level increasing due to unburnt fuel and water accumulating in the crankcase when the flow direct for evacuation is not addressed. A good part of this would be accumulating in the crankcase w/out the RX systems dual valve system installed properly, and also how this is the most critical system to install first if on the fence for the cleanside separator.
Here are some good technical videos for those wanting even more understanding of DI vs Port injection, and this clarifies reversion pules and fuel as well dispelling one of the haters that do not believe any of this is true:
To play devils advocate here, the catch cans are something I personally have to piss around with every X miles, and if I don't I could end up with a potential hydrolock problem. Notwithstanding, it's 4 Benjamen's for a tin can. Putting this in perspective, I could get two+ new factory CAC's or even say, every twenty or thirty thousand miles pull and clean a CAC if I was really that worried. My truck has ten thousand miles and sees no more than a few tens of degrees above ambient temps with factory CAC, why bother?
If your fine with the ingestion causing less MPG and less power, as well as the intake valve coking which is a gradual degradation of the engines efficiancy.
And you are correct that most cans are no more than a "tin can", but the few that do have a robust inner design are the ones that work.
If you let this accumulate in the intercooler, that is the cause of most hydrolock catastrophic failures people experience. I think your just looking at this from the water ingestion in cold weather and not the overall effects on the engine. So it is all in if your investment in the truck is worth a few hundred to protect and get the most out of, or if your comfortable as it is. If the later that's fine as well since no one should make you do what you don't want to your vehicle. This is only for those that want to avoid the issues and do what they can to extend life and enjoy it the most.
Here is what you get with the RX system:
Internally it has a complex series of chambers, each with a purpose, and at just under 1 qt, unlike most that are 2 oz's or less, there is some leeway on how long you can go before emptying. In cold temps below 45*F though it is critical to empty weekly and that is why this does not fit into what most owners will accept. Most want to put gas in and nothing else so that understandable....your not alone.
And the cleanside separator:
Now if you were buying one like this:
Then it is no different than a tin can with a couple fittings in it.
So it is a personal choice, and you make valid points.
Since I did not have to run a hose to the breather cap as you would when using the emissions legal version. ..I was able to use the existing barb as my vacuum source when under boost...teeing into the passenger side turbo inlet tube.