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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Our camper is loaded up and I set up the Curt True-Track today. Following are my measurements and my weights.

Unloaded:
Front wheel well: 39.5

Rear wheel well: 41


Loaded but no WDH:
Front wheel well: 40.5

Rear wheel well: 38.5


Loaded with WDH:
Front wheel well: 39 7/8

Rear wheel well: 39 1/4


I also scaled it.
Truck unloaded: 5300 lbs

Truck loaded with WDH: 6140 (6500 gvwr)

Gross combined weight: 11860 (I have a 12800 gcvwr)


Trailer weight totals 6560, and I have 840 lbs tongue weight (12.8%)

Front axle loaded: 3100 (3375 FAWR)

Rear axle loaded : 3040 (3900 RAWR)

Trailer axles combined at 5700



With all that said, what changes, if any, would you guys say I need to do with the WDH to shift any weight differently. Seems odd to me that my front axle holds more than the rear. I know I should have made a pass with no WDH but I was pushed for time. I'll go back some other time and get more weight stats.

The truck looks a touch nose high, but I have a 2.5" level and raised the rear about 1.5" with an add a leaf.

The camper is level, I'd like it to be a touch nose down, but the hitch head is as low as it will go on the shank, so I don't think I can lower it any.


Overall I think I'm pretty good on my limits as far as gcvwr and gvwr. I'm obviously near the limits, closer than some would like, but if it handles well I'm fine with that.


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I’m doing this from my phone so forgive me. Just quickly looking from my minds eye at what your wheel well height is after applying the wdh, it seems right to me. Of course I’m not taking the weights into consideration.

Aside from that, to get the trailer a touch nose down you should be able to add (I think it’s add, but could be remove) a washer from the wdh head? Thereby tilting the ball back some and pitching the nose down.

Question is, how does it tow? If I have time tomorrow I’ll play with the numbers and come back (have a busy day at work lined up already) but you should also post it over on the keystone forum as well..those guys are typically on it hehe.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I’m doing this from my phone so forgive me. Just quickly looking from my minds eye at what your wheel well height is after applying the wdh, it seems right to me. Of course I’m not taking the weights into consideration.

Aside from that, to get the trailer a touch nose down you should be able to add (I think it’s add, but could be remove) a washer from the wdh head? Thereby tilting the ball back some and pitching the nose down.

Question is, how does it tow? If I have time tomorrow I’ll play with the numbers and come back (have a busy day at work lined up already) but you should also post it over on the keystone forum as well..those guys are typically on it hehe.
The Curt doesn't use washers, it has a spring clip that sets the angle on the head in preset locations. But, yes it can be tilted.

I thought tilting the head was meant to be a measure for applying more tension to the spring bars if needed, but I think it would also lower the trailer a touch. Not a lot, but I probably don't need a lot.

It towed well into town to hit the scale, but that was only about 5 miles and I didn't pass any semis or anything. I did run it up to 70 for a bit and it seemed well planted, as well as when hitting bumps and potholes on these rough rural roads.




...but you should also post it over on the keystone forum as well..those guys are typically on it hehe.
I would rather be stuck not going over 50 lest it become a white knuckle affair. Lol

Overall they are a good bunch and a treasure trove of RV related knowledge, but MAN are they rough on half tonners. Especially the ones with the "little engines".

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I think you need to take it on a shake-down loop because who really knows how your combo is gunna ride.

The scales and heights look good on paper.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That's mostly what I wanted to hear. That I was at a reasonable starting point. We're leaving tomorrow after work to take it on our maiden voyage to a state park about an hour away. That's exactly what the plan was, a shakedown run. Not too far from home, and we'll be very close to a Walmart. I have all the tools packed to start over from scratch if I need to on the hitch, but I think it's gonna be close.

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Everything you posted indicates that you have the rig "within the margins" of a proper tow.

In my opinion you will be heading out on the road set up better than the vast majority of ½ tonners pulling the same weight.

That does not mean you can't improve the towing experience though. There are all kinds of things that can add to the towing prowess of the truck itself. But you've already heard them all. Tires, shocks, and rear suspension add-ons like airbags and helper leafs.....

Just take it easy at first. Be careful and have fun!

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Discussion Starter #8
I already have add a leafs, with a supposed 950 lbs of assistance. Given the small amount of squat that the rear end suffered, I'd say they help.

I'm still on all factory shocks at 76,000 miles, so no doubt shocks are in order (especially with the added height in the rear). I'm sure that will help a bit. I don't have plans for too much else. Maybe LT or 10 ply tires when these are worn out if I get the sense that mine are too squishy.

I've watched the roadmaster active suspension for a while too. Some swear by them, but I just couldn't pull the trigger on that price tag without knowing if I even need them.

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I'm telling you..... You will go gaga with Bilsteins on the back and some load E tires.

But DON'T do it yet. Get real used to how it rolls now so that when you add truck shocks and tires you can say wow. Lol



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Discussion Starter #10
I'm trying to balance weight, load bearing ability, and price with tires. So load E will be an absolute last resort.

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I'm trying to balance weight, load bearing ability, and price with tires. So load E will be an absolute last resort.

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You don't want to give up that tire spooling take-off when you ain't towing?

Alright. I can understand that. :)

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I don't think E-range tires are necessary. At least I haven't ever felt the need but I also am on the 20" wheels.

I mean look, the truck is 6140 lbs loaded and I would be willing to bet ~3200 of that is on the front axle. I mean, my naked truck scaled at 3440 lbs on the front axle, 2700 on the rear. What I am trying to say is that at most your axles are hold ~3000 lbs each it looks like. One P rated tire can practically handle that full load.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I don't think E-range tires are necessary. At least I haven't ever felt the need but I also am on the 20" wheels.

I mean look, the truck is 6140 lbs loaded and I would be willing to bet ~3200 of that is on the front axle. I mean, my naked truck scaled at 3440 lbs on the front axle, 2700 on the rear. What I am trying to say is that at most your axles are hold ~3000 lbs each it looks like. One P rated tire can practically handle that full load.
That's how I looked at it when I was purchasing these tires. My truck would be severely overloaded before I overloaded just these P rated tires.

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I didn't think E rated was necessary either. That said, I ended up getting BFG TK02's on the stock 20" rim in a "D" rating. Gives the same off road performance, but just a little stiffer when towing. I could tell the difference going from P --> D, but this was before I added air bags and Bilsteins. You may not see too much difference since you already have an added leaf in there. I run them at max 65 PSI and they are very solid and stiff.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I tried to find a D rated tire, but I couldn't in my size. Seems like it's P or LT or E.

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The numbers you posted look good, should tow good for you. I think if you encounter any sway or push from semi's you may consider stiffening the TV suspension a little. How are the tires on the trailer? I recently read that RIVA changed their tire loading standards for trailers relative to GAWR.
 

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I thought the benefit of the E tires when towing was less about me needing them for weight ratings, but more for how they respond to side loads as you truck down the road. They hold their shoulders and reduce any sidewall flex.

I can promise you will feeeeel the difference.

But then, there's a price to be paid for running empty. They aren't as soft and compliant.

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I thought the benefit of the E tires when towing was less about me needing them for weight ratings, but more for how they respond to side loads as you truck down the road. They hold their shoulders and reduce any sidewall flex.

I can promise you will feeeeel the difference.

But then, there's a price to be paid for running empty. They aren't as soft and compliant.

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My mileage took a hit too... but it's never really great towing a brick.

Your comments are spot on. Before upgrading I felt like I was being pushed around on the highway. Now when semi's come up on me I can feel it pull just a little, but it doesn't have that "suction" effect which can be deadly.
 

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My mileage took a hit too... but it's never really great towing a brick.

Your comments are spot on. Before upgrading I felt like I was being pushed around on the highway. Now when semi's come up on me I can feel it pull just a little, but it doesn't have that "suction" effect which can be deadly.
Perfect description for what I meant.

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Discussion Starter #20
The numbers you posted look good, should tow good for you. I think if you encounter any sway or push from semi's you may consider stiffening the TV suspension a little. How are the tires on the trailer? I recently read that RIVA changed their tire loading standards for trailers relative to GAWR.
It had C rated tires when I bought it, which are 1820 lbs each. I bought and had D rated tires at 2149 lbs each. I felt like the C rated were going to just barely be adequate if I ever have the trailer loaded to its max gvwr and one corner is heavy. My trailer axles are almost a perfect 50/50 split.

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