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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all. My truck started making this strange rattle/grinding noise the other day.
I'm sure it's not related, was right after new front struts were installed.
Anyway, this happens around 1100-1300 ish rpms. Very slight load and 45mph or under.
It could be happening at higher speeds but I can't hear it.

My truck doesn't have a noisy start up, nice and quiet, no rattle.

I'm still leaving towards something to do with the chains but thought before I worried about the worst case I would post and see what you all think.


https://youtu.be/T0PNlp1YYWU
 

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I'm betting it IS directly related to having new struts put on. In fact, it's easy for the accidental injury to the IWE vacuum system to take place during the strut install.

More than a few have been victims

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I should have said, put it in 4WD and see if the noise stops. That'd be a sure sign you have injured the vacuum driven IWE circuit somewhere

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, I'll give the 4x4 test a shot.

I've checked all the vacuum lines going to the hubs and through the engine bay and couldn't see anything obvious.
I'll drive then see about getting it up on a hoist so I can see better.

Report back after that.

I should have said, put it in 4WD and see if the noise stops. That'd be a sure sign you have injured the vacuum driven IWE circuit somewhere

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Discussion Starter #5
Have it a quick test. Seemed to have gone away with 4x4 enabled.
As mentioned though, it only does it with fully warmed up and the drive wasn't very long.
I'll test longer here shortly.

Just for giggles, I did climb all over the truck and didn't see anything unplugged. I wonder if something could be plugged in incorrectly.?
 

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There's a small check valve in the IWE path. Not sure exactly where it is on 18's.

Locate it and make sure it isn't leaking down.
But look for a pinch or crack somewhere close to where the coilover work was done.

You want to avoid that noise because it's literally the sound of damage being done to the IWE teeth and pawls. It doesn't take long to trash the meshing ability.

Keep in mind that zero vacuum IS 4wd.
So if 4WD stops the clatter, it indicates that full-vaccum (2wd) is not attainable for some reason. An indication of vacuum leak.

Obviously I'm guessing that the coilover work is the culprit, but there are lots of warnings about protecting the vacuum hoses and fittings when removing the front struts on these trucks.

Could just be a coincidence, of course. But it was dejavu when you posted.

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I think Snake has called this correctly. As for the timing on this and the fact that you checked to make sure the vacuum lines were reattached at the hub. I’d bet that the half shaft was loosened up and reinstalled improperly. The splines must be lined up before tightening the half shaft. I hope not but I’d suspect it’s damaged the IWE. It’s also possible that the vacuum lines were damaged if they were removed resulting in a vacuum leak at the hub. A little liquid soap and a spray bottle might help identify if the hoses were cracked.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Took it to my shop and got it up in the air.
Chased the lines from vac source to the valve to each hub.
Everything was intact.
Checked that little check valve next to the firewall and control valve, seems it's bad. I can blow through it once then it seals then it doesn't.
I removed it and plugged the line and took it for a drive.
No more noise.


Thanks for the advice, honestly my next step was to start pricing timing parts.
 

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That little $8.00 check valve has caused many folks grief. And a few folks replaced expensive damaged 4WD parts.

Thanks GearHead for the vote of confidence.

I guess if I keep swinging, I'd eventually get out of my slump. :)

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Took it to my shop and got it up in the air.
Chased the lines from vac source to the valve to each hub.
Everything was intact.
Checked that little check valve next to the firewall and control valve, seems it's bad. I can blow through it once then it seals then it doesn't.
I removed it and plugged the line and took it for a drive.
No more noise.


Thanks for the advice, honestly my next step was to start pricing timing parts.
Nice crack there! Replaced it on my 18 in well under a year.
 

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That little $8.00 check valve has caused many folks grief. And a few folks replaced expensive damaged 4WD parts.

Thanks GearHead for the vote of confidence.

I guess if I keep swinging, I'd eventually get out of my slump. :)

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That's what, the third one in the past few weeks? Perhaps we should document the part number, where it's located and what year trucks this can be found on. Not sure about 2012, but this is definitely something I am going to buy and throw in the glove box. Can you imagine towing on a very long trip and having to ride 4wd the whole way home on the dry interstate? Good grief!
 

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I replaced YG-429 on my 13. It is right under the IWE solenoid on the drivers side. It is a 3 valve little guy. I originally bought the one the op had but could not find it lol so I think that is for the newer trucks. I got mine off of amazon.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It's been a few days now and I can confirm is repaired.
Super strange that that little valve failed when it did but it's all good now.

Not sure if any damage occurred and without taking everything apart in not sure how to tell.

Thanks for the help everyone.
 

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It's been a few days now and I can confirm is repaired.
Super strange that that little valve failed when it did but it's all good now.

Not sure if any damage occurred and without taking everything apart in not sure how to tell.

Thanks for the help everyone.
If you can go into and out of 4WD gracefully and without unusual issue, I'd say you caught it in time.

For the next couple of days just give that feature a workout.

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It's been a few days now and I can confirm is repaired.
Super strange that that little valve failed when it did but it's all good now.

Not sure if any damage occurred and without taking everything apart in not sure how to tell.

Thanks for the help everyone.
Would you be so kind as to post the part number, where it's located and the year/trim of your truck? Thanks!
 

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I had to replace that valve on my 2016 3.5 as well. It's by the brake booster on the drivers side, right near the firewall. I don't recall exactly where cause it's been a little since I replaced it, but I can take a picture of the location later and post it if anyone is curious.

Also, you can get a higher quality aftermarket check valve. I didn't lol, but you can and it'll probably save you from ever having to do this again.
 
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