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Discussion Starter #1
2012 XLT 4x4, HD Payload, Max Tow, Crew, 6.5 bed Eco.
Coming up on 60,000

A little over a year ago (45,000 mi), while towing an 8,500 lb fifth wheel from Minn. to the Gulf coast, got the dreaded Wrench. No other symptoms, except being in limp mode. Would clear on restart, but after a few miles would happen again. Managed to go the 60mi. to the camp site (it does NOT tow well when in limp!), and went to an Alabama Ford dealer. 10 hrs, and $400, later it was diagnosed as a cracked electrical connector. Per a Ford TSB it was replaced and heavily wrapped in electrical tape.

Now 15 mo. later I have started to see it again during non-towing use. Very sporadic, not near as frequent as before and cannot dependably get it to happen, yet. No other symptoms - no shudders, no engine light, just goes into limp at start-up (twice) or while idling at a stop sign (once). Of course, cannot get it to the local (Minn.) dealer when it is happening. They've gone over it twice, and they have been unable to pull any codes. It seems to meet all specs. They say there is nothing they can do, until they catch it in the act.

Have planned a 4,000 mi trip this fall, towing to Colorado and Utah. Lots of big ups and downs, and areas a very long distance from a dealership.

About a month left to sort this out. Any advice on how to get a handle on the issue? Or do I just have to wait for it to happen when they are open for service?
 

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I've had similar problems with defective parts on these TSB's and they won't do anything. And if you don't have an extended warranty, after 60k miles all of these defective parts (and any other problems they cause) will have to be changed at your cost. 'FordService' may reply and act like they are going to help, but they won't. The rest of the replys you'll get on this board are fake. They are the same posters on each board and all they do is blow Ford, EB, etc. Only thing you can do is trade it in ASAP.

You must be Elkharts twin brother.
 

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A wrench light but no codes can be pulled? They should be able to get a code with their gear easy........no real helping you out on here with what you say.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Umm, trading is not an option. And of course it is at my expense. Cars break and need to be fixed. I am frustrated that they say there are no codes, very odd that nothing is stored. Other than scanning it, they took it on a couple of short drives to see if they could get the wrench (as I did beforehand, hoping to get it to occur when I took it in). They refused to find out from the other dealer in their nationwide chain as to what the prior repair was, so they could at least visually re-check it! Wondering if there are any other approaches other than "drive it till it breaks"?
 

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Check your paperwork and find out what the repair was yourself or call the old dealer and find out what they did. Give them our invoice number to reference.

Most causes of limp mode we see are due to major misfiring due to the moisture creation in the CAC. (intercooler).

Think you can monitor misfires with Androids Torque Pro and an OBD II dongle. Might be worth the $20 bucks to buy and learn how to use. That way you yourself can try and pull the codes as soon as it happens.
 

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Umm, trading is not an option. And of course it is at my expense. Cars break and need to be fixed. I am frustrated that they say there are no codes, very odd that nothing is stored. Other than scanning it, they took it on a couple of short drives to see if they could get the wrench (as I did beforehand, hoping to get it to occur when I took it in). They refused to find out from the other dealer in their nationwide chain as to what the prior repair was, so they could at least visually re-check it! Wondering if there are any other approaches other than "drive it till it breaks"?
Can you reach out to the dealership that did the original fix and find out: 1) what part they replaced/repaired, 2) the location of said part, and 3) what TSB number the part was replaced under? They should have that all on record. Just because your local dealership is being stubborn and won't make the call, doesn't mean you can't. Then, you can go to the local place armed with a bit of knowledge: symptoms of current problem, history of issues and repairs, possible cause of this problem, and what/where they need to check. Also, if it's just checking an electrical connection, you can always check that yourself - find it, unwrap the electrical tape, check for loose wires/connection, then take apart the connector, and look for corrosion inside.

Maybe it's not even the same connector that's causing the problem... maybe somewhere else in the wiring harness the wire got pinched or melted or shorted or... And perhaps the symptoms are almost the same but not exactly the same. Thus the reason the dealership wants to replicate it themselves. If it happens to you when you're anywhere near an auto parts store, try swinging in and having them scan codes for you. It takes all of 60 seconds to pull codes with a CANBUS capable OBD2 scanner and you might see something the dealership is not able to.

I do understand that it's under warranty and you probably feel like they should just fix it... just know that some dealerships will do everything in their power to deny you service, so you might need to take the initiative on it yourself. But it really sucks that you're not able to get it to exhibit the issue when they have the truck! Intermittent problems are so frustrating.
 

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Also start by pulling the plugs to see how their burning , wet via CAC and or PVC crankcase crap.
Check the gap and better yet drop some SP534's gapped at .030.
I agree with the torque pro app and dongle setup. It's cheap to do and a great way to monitor your Boost.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the tips.

This truck is out of warranty, so no issue there - it will be on my dime.
Dealer did a plug change as part of 60K normal maint. and attempt to read codes, after the first time seeing the Wrench. It's happened twice in the 7 days since then. So a plug change didn't have an effect.

After getting it back yesterday from the Minn. dealer, I noted that the rock guard underneath was hanging down. Called the Alabama dealer and got the info on the prior repair. Went back to get the guard reinstalled, and while there the very helpful mechanic (as opposed to his Service Manager!) showed me the connector (as referenced on wiring diagrams he printed) on the TCBP that was bad previously. Was wrapped up tight. So, while it could be possible, seems not much more likely than the myriad of other things that could be going on.

Am investigating Torque Pro now. Anything similar for iPhone/iPad that can be recommended? I don't mind picking up a cheap Galaxy tablet or similar if that what it takes, though.
 

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Forscan doesn't have the monitoring ability that Torquepro does I believe.
 

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2012 XLT 4x4, HD Payload, Max Tow, Crew, 6.5 bed Eco.
Coming up on 60,000

A little over a year ago (45,000 mi), while towing an 8,500 lb fifth wheel from Minn. to the Gulf coast, got the dreaded Wrench. No other symptoms, except being in limp mode. Would clear on restart, but after a few miles would happen again. Managed to go the 60mi. to the camp site (it does NOT tow well when in limp!), and went to an Alabama Ford dealer. 10 hrs, and $400, later it was diagnosed as a cracked electrical connector. Per a Ford TSB it was replaced and heavily wrapped in electrical tape.

Now 15 mo. later I have started to see it again during non-towing use. Very sporadic, not near as frequent as before and cannot dependably get it to happen, yet. No other symptoms - no shudders, no engine light, just goes into limp at start-up (twice) or while idling at a stop sign (once). Of course, cannot get it to the local (Minn.) dealer when it is happening. They've gone over it twice, and they have been unable to pull any codes. It seems to meet all specs. They say there is nothing they can do, until they catch it in the act.

Have planned a 4,000 mi trip this fall, towing to Colorado and Utah. Lots of big ups and downs, and areas a very long distance from a dealership.

About a month left to sort this out. Any advice on how to get a handle on the issue? Or do I just have to wait for it to happen when they are open for service?
Thanks for the tips.

This truck is out of warranty, so no issue there - it will be on my dime.
Dealer did a plug change as part of 60K normal maint. and attempt to read codes, after the first time seeing the Wrench. It's happened twice in the 7 days since then. So a plug change didn't have an effect.

After getting it back yesterday from the Minn. dealer, I noted that the rock guard underneath was hanging down. Called the Alabama dealer and got the info on the prior repair. Went back to get the guard reinstalled, and while there the very helpful mechanic (as opposed to his Service Manager!) showed me the connector (as referenced on wiring diagrams he printed) on the TCBP that was bad previously. Was wrapped up tight. So, while it could be possible, seems not much more likely than the myriad of other things that could be going on. ...
Let me know if you head back into the dealer for this, sande005, and I'll see how I can best assist. Send over a PM with your name, phone number, VIN, and servicing dealer. We want you to enjoy your trip!

I've had similar problems with defective parts on these TSB's and they won't do anything. And if you don't have an extended warranty, after 60k miles all of these defective parts (and any other problems they cause) will have to be changed at your cost. 'FordService' may reply and act like they are going to help, but they won't. The rest of the replys you'll get on this board are fake. They are the same posters on each board and all they do is blow Ford, EB, etc. Only thing you can do is trade it in ASAP.
I’m sad to see you feel this way, Urshermo. I do see that we were able to escalate a case for you previously; as the CSM stated, the dealer does need to be able to diagnosis the concern to know if TSBs apply, as well as appropriately fix the vehicle. Should you chose to go back to the dealer, I’m here to help.

Rachel
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you Rachel - PM to be sent.
Just FYI, the Alabama dealer was great, even though the diagnosis and repair entailed 10hrs in their waiting room. They bent over backwards to keep me informed and to help with the situation.
My nearest dealer, where I purchased the truck, is not so versed. So, if the wrench reappears I will be moving to another. Luckily there are 3 others a short drive away (even if in limp mode)!
 

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Rachel,

There is nothing else Ford can do for me, so any effort you apply will be wasted. But it does bother me to see you deny service to replace defective parts in these TSB's. Especially the ones that have the potential to cause other problems. My truck and transmission build date clearly met the requirements for TSB 14-0134 and you continually denied me service because it could not reproduce the intermittent groaning noise. But that's fine, I replaced the $16 defective separator plate by myself and my truck will never see another stealership as long as I'm the owner. The only thing I want from Ford is for them to mail me a master brake cylinder that isn't defective, but I'm sure I'll have to fight for that too.
I understand your frustration; however, I am unable to assist without your truck being at the dealer. If you do ever change your mind, you know where to find me.

Thank you Rachel - PM to be sent.
Just FYI, the Alabama dealer was great, even though the diagnosis and repair entailed 10hrs in their waiting room. They bent over backwards to keep me informed and to help with the situation.
My nearest dealer, where I purchased the truck, is not so versed. So, if the wrench reappears I will be moving to another. Luckily there are 3 others a short drive away (even if in limp mode)!
I'll keep an eye out for your PM. I'm glad to see the Alabama dealer took good care of you, and that you've got a few other options to try locally. Keep me posted!

Rachel
 

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Discussion Starter #14
An update: The dreaded wrench has not yet reappeared. But, in the prior work with the dealer I had a pretty bad chain of customer service problems. When I got the Ford survey, I was very honest, and went into detail on the issues. Vowed never to go back. Within 2 days, I got a call from the GM of the dealership. Would have just ignored it, but I had to return yesterday for them to reattach a lower rock guard, that fell down after a previous trip to reattach it! GM and SM both pulled me into an office for a long chat and apologies for the issues, and what they were doing to resolve them. Despite no firm way to determine what was causing the wrench, they installed a new throttle body, replaced the plugs a second time, and reflashed the programming, all at no charge. Hmmm, they have a history of struggling with front line customer service (the actual mechanical work has generally been fine), but at least they know what their issues are, and do whatever it takes to moderate any failures.

Crossing fingers that the throttle body replacement makes the problem go away. It appears milage has gone up, also with the change out!
 

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Wrench and limp mode

2012 XLT 4x4, HD Payload, Max Tow, Crew, 6.5 bed Eco.
Coming up on 60,000

A little over a year ago (45,000 mi), while towing an 8,500 lb fifth wheel from Minn. to the Gulf coast, got the dreaded Wrench. No other symptoms, except being in limp mode. Would clear on restart, but after a few miles would happen again. Managed to go the 60mi. to the camp site (it does NOT tow well when in limp!), and went to an Alabama Ford dealer. 10 hrs, and $400, later it was diagnosed as a cracked electrical connector. Per a Ford TSB it was replaced and heavily wrapped in electrical tape.

Now 15 mo. later I have started to see it again during non-towing use. Very sporadic, not near as frequent as before and cannot dependably get it to happen, yet. No other symptoms - no shudders, no engine light, just goes into limp at start-up (twice) or while idling at a stop sign (once). Of course, cannot get it to the local (Minn.) dealer when it is happening. They've gone over it twice, and they have been unable to pull any codes. It seems to meet all specs. They say there is nothing they can do, until they catch it in the act.

Have planned a 4,000 mi trip this fall, towing to Colorado and Utah. Lots of big ups and downs, and areas a very long distance from a dealership.

About a month left to sort this out. Any advice on how to get a handle on the issue? Or do I just have to wait for it to happen when they are open for service?
""""I had the same problem took it to the dealership 6 times before they could figure it out kept throwing a turbo sensor harness code ended up being the intercooler and charge pipe which there is a TSB on"""""""
 

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Just wanted to pass along some info in case anyone else is having electronic TB issues with their truck.

Symptoms of failure in my case:

About a week ago the truck began completely losing throttle control. While trying to accelerate onto the highway or traveling at Highway speeds up to 70mph truck would shut off with complete loss of throttle response, a blue wrench icon would appear and I would have to try and coast to the shoulder safely without causing an accident. At a complete stop the truck would continue to not have throttle control, to regain throttle control I would have to restart the truck. The truck would then drive for a short period of time and lose throttle again several miles down the road. This problem proved to be a very serious safety issue while trying to make turns across lanes of traffic not knowing if the truck would lose power and throttle control in the path of an oncoming vehicle. This issue proved to be equally dangerous while suddenly slowing from highway speeds in heavy traffic with no throttle control and complete loss of power.

The truck was delivered to the local dealership late last week.

The dealership determined the cause of failure to be the electronic throttle body, the electronic controller had failed inside the throttle body and the unit would need to be replaced. I was quoted $667 and told it was not covered under the powertrain warranty. I then called ford customer satisfaction department and started a case with them. I was contacted this afternoon and was informed by the dealer that I would be partially covered and would need to pay an out of pocket expense of $250. Needing the truck back I agreed to pay the $250 out of pocket expense while continuing to make and attempt to regain my out of pocket a later date.

Truck: 2014 F150 XLT Ecoboost

Milage at time of incident: 48,800

Details of existing issues with other ford electronic throttle body failures:

http://www.carcomplaints.com/news/20...-lawsuit.shtml

http://www.carcomplaints.com/news/20...imp-home.shtml
 

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I'm having the same problem with my 2013 f150 fx4 eb except mine is stuck in limp mode I can turn it off and it clears the wrench but as soon as you start it, it will put it right back into limp mode. I can not even drive the truck to the dealer. I have all kinds it problems with this truck at the moment I have complete loss of power steering, I have a need to service advanced track warning flashing on the screen , down hill desent failure flashing on the screen I'm about ready to light advanced match and walk away. I own 3 ford's and was a ford guy until these new vehicles started messing up right out of warranty I just don't know what to do anymore
 

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Well I am new to this forum and new to participating in forums. But I have a 2013 F150 crew cab. I purchased it new and have only 24k miles. I just started to encounter the wrench and limp mode. It certainly is not encouraging reading these post's as I don't see a root cause identified for this issue. So am I missing something or has a root cause been identified? My pattern is the same as what i have read in these posts, wrench comes on truck immediately goes into limp mode. I pull over restart the engine and things seem to return to normal operation although the engine seems to idle a bit rough. The timing of this issue surfacing is terrible as I am planning a 2,000 mile trip pulling a trailer. So getting a bit anxious about taking this trip with this issue. Any updates would be greatly appreciated. I am taking the truck to the dealer this week armed with the information I have learned from this forum.
 

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Wow a 2013 with only 24K and having issues thats not good. I believe even though you only have 24k the years might put you out of warrenty. I would take it to the dealer and see what they can do for you.
 
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