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Discussion Starter #1
2012 xlt started the tic in the dash. I pulled the temperature cluster and the radio to see if it was the blend door actuator behind the radio but it didn't seem like that is where the noise from coming form. Seems like its higher up in the dash. Are there more then one actuators hidden in there somewhere?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Forgot to add, I have both heat and cold still, it seems like I can get it to stop when I change between defrost, floor, and vent settings.
 

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Odd question, but how old is your cabin air filter? I've personally heard a dash tick in a car that had a blocked filter; the HVAC caused it to lift and fall back down as it tried to draw air through the filter.
 

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There are 3 blend door actuators from what I know. One behind the radio area, one sandwiched between some ducting near the floor behind center console duct area (I replaced this one, took me 8 hours), and one on the drivers side of the center console (can actually see this one if you put your head near the accelerator pedal). I’m guessing you might check this last one since you can see it and it’s rod move easily.
 

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There are 3 blend door actuators from what I know. One behind the radio area, one sandwiched between some ducting near the floor behind center console duct area (I replaced this one, took me 8 hours), and one on the drivers side of the center console (can actually see this one if you put your head near the accelerator pedal). I’m guessing you might check this last one since you can see it and it’s rod move easily.
holy **** lol. I watched the ford tech on youtube do one of them on f150 with center console, his "short cut" was to take the whole center console out to get to it. Not looking forward to that one.

I have done extensive work like this before for BDA on panther cars. It is in the middle of the dash, you unbolt the entire dash to get to it, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok well it seems to be the one under the dash by the accelerator, hopefully that one will be easier to change out, now that I have all ready had the radio pulled out. Now to get a part number.
 

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Well I thought it was going to be easy. I cant seem to access the upper bolt holding this thing in. This isn't the actuator where you have to pull the dash is it?
 

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I have not done this one yet but I will need to soon since it’s been clicking for a while on mine. I found a YouTube video on it in the past and I think it’s this one starting at 12mins in:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah that’s the one at the 12 min mark, he didn’t really show the path he took to get the upper bolt out though. Evidently there is no secrete trick, just have dislocate a couple joints in my wrist I guess.
 

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Yea, the lower one left me with shoulder pain for months. Didn’t help that I did it twice cause I was worried about cutting the plastic the first time and never removed the motor. Second time I was determined! Let us know what worked for you if you get it out. I seem to also recall one guy saying the accelerator pedal should be removed for room but I wasn’t sure about that. Depends what’s keeping you from getting to that top screw.
 

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Definitely remove the pedal....their aren't that many bolts holding it and it makes it waaaasy easier to get to that little black box 😊 and or you may need a drink before and or (in addition to) after trying to squeeze under the dash?-lol....being 6'2" & 225#'s wasn't much fun.
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Pull the seat out? All seats are 4 bolts and electrical connection.

I would pay good money for these things that are guaranteed to be bullet proof. They are horrible design and constant fail for decades now.
 

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If you do pull the seat, be careful of the electrical. It’s hooked into the airbags and unless you disconnect and drain all electrical first, they have a small chance of deploying and ruining your day.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I think if I remove accelerator pedal I will have enough room to get my arm up there to remove the upper bolt. Now to figure out how to remove the accelerator pedal.
 
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