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Discussion Starter #1
History:
2011 F150 3.5l (my first EcoBoost)
Startup rattle started about 9 months ago, it was not bad and I thought it was from cold oil/sticky lifters.... WRONG

10 days after my extended PT warranty expired I had a horrible loss of power up to about 2500rpm
This was on and off maybe 50% for a week (thought it was a dirty air filter) then the engine light came on.
P0016 is the only code.

I have the timing set ordered and am wondering if I should/need to replace the phasers?

Don't really have the extra $400+ right now and no one has them locally and I wand to do this over the long Memorial weekend.


Here is what I got in the kit and I'm trying to track down all the needed bolts, seals and gaskets. Auto zone, Advanced and Oriley does not seem to have any of what I need....
This item includes:
1 Timing Chain (primary, lower, 254L)
2 Timing Chain upper (cam to cam, 50L, 2 required)
1 Tensioner primary (lower tensioner)
2 Tensioner upper (piston & shoe assembly, 2 required, one left one right)
2 Guide Rail upper (2 required, secondary)
1 Guide Rail right (fixed short rail. Lower)
1 Guide Rail left (fixed short rail. Lower)
1 Guide Rail left (fixed long rail. Lower)
1 Guide Rail right (tensioner rail. Lower)
1 Cam Sprocket (intake VVT cam actuator) - not included
1 Cam Sprocket (exhaust VVT cam actuator) - not included
1 Crank Sprocket (29 teeth)

Per the picture of what I orderd the upper chains have marked links but the main does not.
Is there anywhere I would find the link count from crank to cam to cam and mark them myself?


Thanks!
 

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Do yourself a favor a put this on hold until you have ALL the parts. This is a pain in the arse to do, so if you do it wrong, don't replace the right parts, etc., I can guarantee that 1000, 10,000 maybe even 25,000 miles down the road, you'll be ripping into the motor again.

I took the approach that I only wanted to do this ONCE for the time I owned the vehicle. So personally I replaced everything I could, especially everything that came in contact with the timing chains. Added to your list would be all 4 cam phasers, 4 cam phaser bolts, all 4 VVT solenoids (These get clogged and don't flow proper oil to the cam phasers), and the idler gear (listed as AUX pump). For good measure I also replaced the coolant crossover tube, the water pump, harmonic balancer and the lower radiator hose. Unless something fails, I have absolutely no reason to rip into that part of the motor again.

Do it right the first time or don't do it at all, because if you have to go into it again, you will probably have to replace the chain and a lot of bolts/gaskets again. So you'll be paying for it TWICE in the long run.
 

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Do yourself a favor a put this on hold until you have ALL the parts. This is a pain in the arse to do, so if you do it wrong, don't replace the right parts, etc., I can guarantee that 1000, 10,000 maybe even 25,000 miles down the road, you'll be ripping into the motor again.

I took the approach that I only wanted to do this ONCE for the time I owned the vehicle. So personally I replaced everything I could, especially everything that came in contact with the timing chains. Added to your list would be all 4 cams, 4 cam bolts, all 4 VVT solenoids (These get clogged and don't flow proper oil to the cams), and the idler gear (listed as AUX pump). For good measure I also replaced the coolant crossover tube, the water pump, harmonic balancer and the lower radiator hose. Unless something fails, I have absolutely no reason to rip into that part of the motor again.

Do it right the first time or don't do it at all, because if you have to go into it again, you will probably have to replace the chain and a lot of bolts/gaskets again. So you'll be paying for it TWICE in the long run.
What he said. This guy would know, having been down this road and living this particular "dream" before. I'd personally take his advice without hesitation.
 

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Yes you would be wasting your time not doing the phasers. Also these motors use shimless buckets, no lifters.

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