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Hi all,

First post here! I have a '14 Lariat screw 4wd that I purchased used so I didn't get a window sticker.

My first question is, how can I tell if I have max tow/max payload packages on my truck? It has the trailer brake controller and integrated trailer sway control (I have a question regarding that, too) so I believe it likely has the max tow package. If so, would that automatically include oil and trans coolers? My max payload is only 1200 lbs so i dont believe the truck has the payload package.

Regarding payload, I know that regardless of what I do to the truck, it wont technically increase how much weight I can carry. My intent is not to push the limits of the trucks capabilities, but to increase safety and possibly add a little peace of mind while towing.

My plan is to get a "smaller" TT, likely something shorter than 28' and less than 7,000 lbs. Based upon what I've read that should fall safely within my trucks limits. However, my truck is leveled with 35" tires (gearing is 3.55) so I will need to account for that. Would air bags be a good idea here? Or would something else be better (while still maintaining unloaded ride quality)?

Also, I've been factoring in a propride hitch into my cost because it seemed like a no brainer even at $3k if it keeps my family safer. However, does the integrated sway control negate the need for a sway eliminating hitch?

I will also be upgrading the stock brakes to power stops. That may be overkill, but I'm ok with that.

Any tips/advice is welcome, I'm still learning at this point and want to educate myself as much as possible before I load up my family and hit the road. Thanks!!
 

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Your GVWR would be 7650 or greater, if you had max tow that year. If it is a US truck, it would have dumbo mirrors, but those can be added. My initial guess from the 1200 lbs alone, is you have the 535 tow package (AKA Heavy Duty), which is a step down from max tow. It does include the larger radiator and trans cooler. The brake controller was an option.

Suspension mods are up to you and your preference, if you are within your trucks standard capabilities. I started with Timbrens and changed to air bags later on, after my level.

The truck's sway control does not take the place of a sway control mechanism on the hitch. That system is only activated in severe sway. You don't want to be minor-ly swaying down the road. That would make for an uncomfortable vacation.

IMO, Propride/Hensley are overkill and too costly. My Andersen made me comfortable everywhere. In fact, the 5th wheel sways more than my TT did with an Andersen.

PowerStop Z36 rock!

Take your time and buy the things you think will make your travels more comfortable and enjoyable. Your truck won't fall apart while you are trying it out and making decisions on upgrades.

Enjoy!🔥🍻⛱🏕
 

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First of all, make sure you have one of these. The 10-row transmission cooler. The smaller one sitting on the bumper is the "max tow" one. It's a joke, don't even mess around. If you don't have a cooler there at all, you'll need to buy the inlet and outlet hoses. It just plugs into the hard pipe transmission lines at the bottom of the radiator, snaps into place, then the short rubber hose goes to the top of the radiator end tank. Some guys pull 8-10K, but they are heavily modified. Aftermarket intercooler, tunes, suspensions locked down, etc. It's easy to spend 5,6,7K just to pull something at max tow with a fair amount of confidence.

Since you have a modified suspension and the 3.55 gears, I'd shoot for your numbers as a MAX. That means you should probably be looking at trailers which are in the 5000-6000 lb range. It's very easy to drop 1000lbs in a trailer between toys, tools, and cargo. If you're the paranoid type and bring a lot of "extra" stuff, definitely shoot towards the 5K number for the trailer. I have the firestone air bags with Bilsteins set to the stock height. This works pretty solid for me and we tow about 7K fully loaded with ~45 PSI in the bags. My other modifications are in my sig. With the added height of your rig you might want to consider beefing up the springs to minimize the amount of bouncing/porpoising.

165344
 

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Agree with max and dan. Keep hitch weight below 1,000, Bilstein’s shocks are good options all around and rear sway bar also is a good option. I would wait and see after those upgrades before getting anything else until you get your RV and tow it some to see how it handles then go from there. Happy travels👍
 

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At least you have the 36 gallon fuel tank! Gonna need it when towing with these things!

I'm towing a #7000 26' Rockwood and coming from towing a #5000 22' Prowler before the Rockwood that extra #2000 is noticeable.

I did the PS brakes and Bilsteins with the 1.5" level. Stock 20" tire size and 3.73 gears. I do have the Max Tow option with #1920 payload, so this works for me.

I use a simple EAZ-Lift #1000 WD bar setup. No other mechanical sway control, as this has served me well over the years and no sway at all.

I went with the Hellwig overload spring option for some help with sagging, even with the WD. I should have only gone with the .75" level, but it's where it is now.. Not gonna fret about it.

I'm running 92 octane gas and it makes a difference for me anyway. I used to run 87 with the old Prowler and tried it one time with the Rockwood.. Went with 92 the next tow and there was an improvement for sure.

Good luck!

Mitch

 

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I have an 18 with thee max trailering package. I have added a Helwig rear sway bar, and put the silver Bilsteins all around. I opted to level the front using the shock’s ride height adjustment. I started with Timbrens but replaced them with the 2,000# air bags from Air Lift, also added the onboard compressor to adjust while enroute. I didn’t like the Timbrens, but many swear by them. They are for sale, if. You’re interested.

I also have a Hensley Arrow hitch and have learned that in crosswinds the factory sway control will fight the Hensley. Quite frankly, this is worse than having no sway control at all so I opt to turn the factory sway control off from the driver information center controls.

My honest opinion. Is that the engine and transmission are phenomenal for towing. The chassis is too light, and the truck is not heavy enough. Yes, I know, should have bought a 3/4 ton... but they won’t fit in my garage.

Happy towing!


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I should probably add that I will have roughly 550 lbs of people in the cab. I'd imagine we would travel relatively light, I'm not a huge fan of hauling any more than what we need with us. I also have a toolbox in the bed of the truck that likely weighs about 100 lbs, including contents of the box.
 

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That's a big girl you picked out there... If your payload is only #1200, then you can do the math... Sounds like you are going to have around #700 in the truck alone. That leaves around #500 left. Dry tongue weight on that gal is pretty much #800.

Everyone says they "pack light".. Sure, you do that the first couple of trips.. Then realize what you missed and want to bring next time.. It'll add up quick! I know, I admit I pack heavy. Been doing this RV thing since 2002 with my own rigs.. Ever since I was a baby going waaay back in time.

In the end, it really depends on how much over payload are you willing to go? I've towed over payload for many years when I had my old 97 F150, like around #500 over.. Nothing blew up and that old gal had some 255,000 miles on her when I traded it for the 13.

I feel I'm towing all I want to tow with my rig.. But, that's just me.. Other's out there would tow that and not even blink an eye..

Good luck!

Mitch
 

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Yeah, that is a pretty healthy trailer for a 1200 lb payload capacity. I think you will be over at least GVWR and probably RAWR.
 

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I see where you're headed with the floorplan. I personally would not pull that without major modifications to the truck. Look at the Rockwood Mini lites like Mitch and I have. Mine has the Murphy bed which takes off 3-5 feet of trailer. It's a compromise, but they are much lighter. Also the slide out is a full 3 feet. Feels spacious with the whole family in there.

Check out the 2509s much more reasonable on weight. You can lower the tongue weight by losing the dual 30lb tanks for the smaller 20lb ones.
 

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Yeah, you really should look around. There are many with similar floorplans that are on the lighter side of that Cherokee. There are literally hundreds of floorplans out there. Since you are looking at bunks, check out the Outbacks with rear bed slides. The wife still complains about loosing that Outback king bed when we moved to the 5th wheel.
 

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Yeah, you really should look around. There are many with similar floorplans that are on the lighter side of that Cherokee. There are literally hundreds of floorplans out there. Since you are looking at bunks, check out the Outbacks with rear bed slides. The wife still complains about loosing that Outback king bed when we moved to the 5th wheel.
This.

I have a Jayco Jayfeather x213 which has the exact same layout as the outback 210urs(rear king slide with front bunks) and it makes for a very compact trailer when folded up. Its great if you boondock in the woods and need to slip into a tight spot.

It is a little tight in the kitchen/dinette area with no side slide, thats the one downside. I know outback makes ones with both a rear and side slide but then you are creeping up in size and weight again.
 

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I have an 18 with thee max trailering package. I have added a Helwig rear sway bar, and put the silver Bilsteins all around. I opted to level the front using the shock’s ride height adjustment. I started with Timbrens but replaced them with the 2,000# air bags from Air Lift, also added the onboard compressor to adjust while enroute. I didn’t like the Timbrens, but many swear by them. They are for sale, if. You’re interested.

I also have a Hensley Arrow hitch and have learned that in crosswinds the factory sway control will fight the Hensley. Quite frankly, this is worse than having no sway control at all so I opt to turn the factory sway control off from the driver information center controls.

My honest opinion. Is that the engine and transmission are phenomenal for towing. The chassis is too light, and the truck is not heavy enough. Yes, I know, should have bought a 3/4 ton... but they won’t fit in my garage.

Happy towing!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I also have an '18 with max tow. The 3.5EB + 10 speed + 3.55 is an amazing tow platform. I hang a Lance 2375 on the back, and it's GVWR is 7000. I pack light, so it's probably 6600 for me. The 12,700 tow capacity is plenty. (Platinum trim with 20" wheels. Love Pro Backup Assist!)

As you wrote, the payload is barely adequate. With 900 on the tongue, me at 230, and the wife, we're close to the payload capacity of 1465.

I added Helwig helper springs in parallel with the leaves a) to reduce squat and b) to provide a softer ride with loaded. I have an Equal-i-zer hitch that does a great job in conjunction with the truck's sway control.

I haven't towed with the Helwig's yet, so I don't know how it's all going to work. I suspect that I'll need to lower the ball 1" to get the trailer level.

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