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Discussion Starter #1
So over the last few weeks I’ve been doing a few things to prepare for towing a trailer this summer. The truck is max tow package so it has the transmission cooler already.

So far I’ve added:
-180 degree thermostat to help keep coolant temps down.

- CPe intercooler to keep Intake temps down
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- Brake Ducts to avoid heat soak while braking through the mountain passes, probably is overkill but I’ve never seen it done so figured I’d give it a go
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If you guys have any suggestions how I could further improve the towing performance of the truck I’d appreciate it!
 

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I think you’ll be good. I don’t have max tow and pulled 7k between Vancouver and Calgary many times. Keep speeds in check and watch your water temps.


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Discussion Starter #3
I think you’ll be good. I don’t have max tow and pulled 7k between Vancouver and Calgary many times. Keep speeds in check and watch your water temps.


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okay sweet, I saw some guys saying they upgraded to a Saudi Transmission cooler, wasn’t sure if I should go that far too cause aside from that I think a good weight distribution hitch and it should be okay!
 

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While I love the enthusiasm and creativity my head makes me question how durable those vent hoses might be? Old school would have dictated that you simply have a stationary exit that is dumping fresh/cool air into the general areal. I‘ll be interested to see how these hold up.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I’m a noob on the forums and double posted.
 

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While I love the enthusiasm and creativity my head makes me question how durable those vent hoses might be? Old school would have dictated that you simply have a stationary exit that is dumping fresh/cool air into the general areal. I‘ll be interested to see how these hold up.

They are dedicated brake duct hoses so hopefully about as durable as it gets!

Brake Duct Hose 3 x 10ft Black 275 Deg ALL42150
 

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okay sweet, I saw some guys saying they upgraded to a Saudi Transmission cooler, wasn’t sure if I should go that far too cause aside from that I think a good weight distribution hitch and it should be okay!
I have the Raptor Saudi Cooler on mine. I should be able to hunt down the part number if you need it. It was a 5 minute install and pretty sure it was more than double the size of my original.


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You're going to have a lot of friction loss in those brake ducts as many bends as you have in there. Getting those lines straight would dramatically increase air flow.
 

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I have the Raptor Saudi Cooler on mine. I should be able to hunt down the part number if you need it. It was a 5 minute install and pretty sure it was more than double the size of my original.


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That easy eh? If it’s not crazy pricy I’d probably give it a go, cooler transmission never hurt!
 

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You're going to have a lot of friction loss in those brake ducts as many bends as you have in there. Getting those lines straight would dramatically increase air flow.
well my small shop fan even blows a good amount of air through so I can imagine 60-80mph is going to put a lot of air through, guess we will find out. I’m gonna do some tests with them blocked and open and put my temp laser on the brakes after each trial.
Unfortunately because I still need to steer the bends are all necessary!
 

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Saudi cooler definitely. <$100 and so easy to install. If you need to take your foot out of it and downshift tranny can get warm. With the Saudi cooler I can drop low and slow and pull hard without getting the trans hot at all.
 

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I'd ditch the light bar in the bumper where the CAC is supposed to get it's air flow from first of all. I wish these trucks had a bigger rad to begin with.. That would eliminate a lot of the heat issues I think right there..

I tow a #7000 TT now and did some suspension and brake upgrades.. Engine and such are all stock.




Not sure why you would need those front brake cooling ducts.. If you are heating up your brakes that much, you don't know how to brake going down steep grades in the first place..

Controlling the engine temps is more about watching how much boost you are applying. If you need to bomb up the grades at 70+ mph, then you'll need boost, and boost makes a lot of heat..

Anyway, these rigs tow pretty good out of the box.. I did what I did to help more with handling more than anything else and hauling heavy in the bed as well has towing.

Not that I'm an expert by any means... Just my own experience over the past 30-40 years of towing stuff since I was a kid to now... :)

Good luck!

Mitch

 

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I went with a ceramic hybrid pad for the fronts. They squeal when cold but there's very little brake fade when towing.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'd ditch the light bar in the bumper where the CAC is supposed to get it's air flow from first of all. I wish these trucks had a bigger rad to begin with.. That would eliminate a lot of the heat issues I think right there..

I tow a #7000 TT now and did some suspension and brake upgrades.. Engine and such are all stock.




Not sure why you would need those front brake cooling ducts.. If you are heating up your brakes that much, you don't know how to brake going down steep grades in the first place..

Controlling the engine temps is more about watching how much boost you are applying. If you need to bomb up the grades at 70+ mph, then you'll need boost, and boost makes a lot of heat..

Anyway, these rigs tow pretty good out of the box.. I did what I did to help more with handling more than anything else and hauling heavy in the bed as well has towing.

Not that I'm an expert by any means... Just my own experience over the past 30-40 years of towing stuff since I was a kid to now... :)

Good luck!

Mitch

yeah I’ve actually been thinking about finding some kind of little grille to put down there in its place that still allows air through better. Don’t want it wide open so the cac gets ruined!

I wasn’t thinking it was necessary but had the truck parked and figured it’d make for a fun little project, besides there are some steep grade mountain passes around here so keeping the brakes a little cooler should help them last a little longer at the very least, I imagine there has to be some brake fade on a long decent regardless as j have heard these engines don’t do much for engine braking. guess we will see if it does much. Worst case I spent 40 bucks haha.

I imagine with the max tow having stiffer leafs my suspension should be alright with a wd hitch anyway? or should I look into bags etc?
 

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I got this for the CAC hole in the bumper. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B006X8BATI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Does not seem to block that much air flow, but will keep any debris from slamming the cooler...

I did the overload springs because I was stupid and did the 1.5" front level with the Bilstein shocks, so when I put any kind of load, or the tongue weight of my trailer, even with the WD bars cranked up, it still has a sag to it... I should have only done the .75" on the front, but was not thinking when I did it.. ha, ha... DOH...

As far as the brakes, I'd rather have the fog lamps in those holes... You don't need to ride the brakes going down the grades... What I do is downshift accordingly, let the truck do what it's gonna do, when it gets going too fast, hit the brakes hard, slow down about 10 mph less than what you were going, then release and let it cool while it picks up speed again.. Sometimes, I'll just hit the trailer brake controller to hit just the trailer brakes and then let off to let the brakes cool between applications. If you just lightly apply the brakes for a long time, that's when they heat up too much and you overheat them... In my experience, this has done me well, and I've never faded my brakes or over heated them on the grades.. I go over mountain passes here in the NW all the time and never an issue.

Mitch
 

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yeah I’ve actually been thinking about finding some kind of little grille to put down there in its place that still allows air through better. Don’t want it wide open so the cac gets ruined!

Dark rain gutter screen works👍 Can’t see it either
 

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I got this for the CAC hole in the bumper. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B006X8BATI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Does not seem to block that much air flow, but will keep any debris from slamming the cooler...

Mitch
Same grille I’ve been running for several years... kept the stock fx4 upper. I thought the bumper looked incomplete from the day we picked it up... just had to touch it up with some satin black rattle last month from that debris you speak of.



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Same CAC grille i have too! Mitch is spot on with the technique i use too. Take it out of cruise control or it will try to slow you down too much. I prefer to manually downshift so I'm in control of the truck. If your brakes are upgraded, you can comfortably roll down a hill at 55-60 mph with a reasonable load on the straights. If you're concerned about brake fade, look for a pad with a high MOT. Stock calipers are fine, just get a good pad and a rotor that can handle it.

I have the Bilsteins at stock height with the firestone bags. They need a good 5-10 psi at all times so they don't pinch. There's too much rake with these adjustments. .75 setting as Mitch states would be much better. My original thought was lower center of gravity would give better stability, but with the weight distribution hitch setup properly it does just fine. I am now thinking about removing the rear blocks so it's not so high in the back unloaded. I don't mind running more psi when not towing.
 

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I often use a little extra psi in my rear bags to adjust the unloaded rear ride height... I’ve actually become a fan of the stiffer ride quality offered up by 40-60psi in them... rarely let down below 30.


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I often use a little extra psi in my rear bags to adjust the unloaded rear ride height... I’ve actually become a fan of the stiffer ride quality offered up by 40-60psi in them... rarely let down below 30.


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Without a load? How high are you on the front?
 
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