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For the OP, Here's the "saudi" cooler I installed in my 2012. At $88 it's the best mod you can make for towing. Virtually plug and play. All you have to do is shorten a piece of pipe on one side to accomodate the height. Mine fit right in the stock place. Should have come on all max tow trucks stock.

 

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Let me ask you tow guys. If I only tow rarely and not very heavy. Would installing a transmission cooler and a better radiator cause any issues? I’ve been told that the engine and tranny are designed to operate at a certain temp range. Would excessive cooling (ie adding those upgrades w/o frequent towing) eventually cause issues?

And is it possible to install the tranny cooler if the truck doesn’t have an OEM one?

2013 F150 XLT 3.5L SCrew. AFE Magnum Force Stage-2 Dual 3-1/2" CAI, Mishimoto Performance Intercooler with Pipes, TurboSmart SP Supersonic BOV Kit , Team RXP Heat Exchanged Dual Catch Can, AEM Coil Packs, SCT/Bully Dog BDX Tuner w/5* Tuning Custom Tunes, AFE Atlas 4" Aluminized Steel Cat-Back
 

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Without a load? How high are you on the front?
Probably worth noting that I carry a “load” all the time with the camper shell and usually a couple hundred pounds of gear.

2” level up front.

60lbs


30lbs


10lbs



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Nice! We practically have the same truck.
 

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Let me ask you tow guys. If I only tow rarely and not very heavy. Would installing a transmission cooler and a better radiator cause any issues? I’ve been told that the engine and tranny are designed to operate at a certain temp range. Would excessive cooling (ie adding those upgrades w/o frequent towing) eventually cause issues?

And is it possible to install the tranny cooler if the truck doesn’t have an OEM one?

2013 F150 XLT 3.5L SCrew. AFE Magnum Force Stage-2 Dual 3-1/2" CAI, Mishimoto Performance Intercooler with Pipes, TurboSmart SP Supersonic BOV Kit , Team RXP Heat Exchanged Dual Catch Can, AEM Coil Packs, SCT/Bully Dog BDX Tuner w/5* Tuning Custom Tunes, AFE Atlas 4" Aluminized Steel Cat-Back
A lot of the operating temp specs are really for fuel emission standards. The thing with the rad and tranny is they are both on thermostats. So it may take a little longer to warm up when cold, but I don't really notice that much difference from before and I live in the pacific northwest where it can be -20 in winter. It still gets to operating temperature within a normal time period. What it offers you is more headroom when it gets hot. The radiator didn't really slow down my overheating issues (still can't fully keep up with the turbos in high boost), but when I take my foot out of it, BAM I get super fast cooling. The tranny cooler allows me to work that sucker harder on grades without it getting roached. IMO these are two areas where the bean counters at Ford reduced the build to save money.

You should be able to put the cooler in there if you don't have it from the factory. The transmission is the same. The top feed of the oil cooler actually goes through the end tank of the radiator on the driver's side. So if you don't have a max tow radiator, you may need to replace that if you want it to be the same as stock. Otherwise it's just an inlet and outlet on the transmission. You may need to buy the tubing which connects the trans to the rad. ( I don't know if non-max tow trucks have the tubing to the rad or are capped at the trans.) The thermostat is inside the transmission on the return side. This way when it opens the system immediately flows colder oil. Maybe the difference is just the rad. Others may have more insight on this.

Here's the parts list for 2013 XLT.

Just don't buy the "A" variant of the cooler. Get the larger "B" one.
 

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Here I fixed the diagram so it makes more sense. The arrows do not indicate flow direction, just which ends connect to what.
165010
 

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@looqw I have a grill craft MX lower grill that you can have if you want it.

It doesn’t have the silly decal as shown in the pic




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Discussion Starter #28
For the OP, Here's the "saudi" cooler I installed in my 2012. At $88 it's the best mod you can make for towing. Virtually plug and play. All you have to do is shorten a piece of pipe on one side to accomodate the height. Mine fit right in the stock place. Should have come on all max tow trucks stock.

Thanks Dan, so just to clarify I have this one pictured (sorry it’s kind of dark)
13807AE0-DDCC-4C88-B6EF-D5A7BF182C25.jpeg

This is not the same as the Saudi one right, I have the max tow package, it looks like it is less rows than the Saudi. But before I go buying it just wanted to make sure! Thanks for all the info on your following posts as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Same CAC grille i have too! Mitch is spot on with the technique i use too. Take it out of cruise control or it will try to slow you down too much. I prefer to manually downshift so I'm in control of the truck. If your brakes are upgraded, you can comfortably roll down a hill at 55-60 mph with a reasonable load on the straights. If you're concerned about brake fade, look for a pad with a high MOT. Stock calipers are fine, just get a good pad and a rotor that can handle it.

I have the Bilsteins at stock height with the firestone bags. They need a good 5-10 psi at all times so they don't pinch. There's too much rake with these adjustments. .75 setting as Mitch states would be much better. My original thought was lower center of gravity would give better stability, but with the weight distribution hitch setup properly it does just fine. I am now thinking about removing the rear blocks so it's not so high in the back unloaded. I don't mind running more psi when not towing.
sounds good, I did go out and get hawk LTS pads and new rotors in August so I believe they are supposed to perform the well when towing.

my truck is lowered about 3.5 inches in the back so it looks like the only option I have for bags would be a set from airlift made for lowered trucks, not sure if they’d be worth it though, guess I’ll wait and see how much sag I get with a WD hitch and go from there.
 

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Thanks Dan, so just to clarify I have this one pictured (sorry it’s kind of dark)
View attachment 165011
This is not the same as the Saudi one right, I have the max tow package, it looks like it is less rows than the Saudi. But before I go buying it just wanted to make sure! Thanks for all the info on your following posts as well.
Yes, all you have to do is pop it in there, shorten hose #2 on the diagram by about 2 inches, then top off your tranny fluid. It will fill that bracket out completely like it was meant to be there. Some guys even pre-fill the core with fluid so you don't have to top it off. Two hose clamps and yer done. Super easy.
 

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Thanks Dan, so just to clarify I have this one pictured (sorry it’s kind of dark)
View attachment 165011
This is not the same as the Saudi one right, I have the max tow package, it looks like it is less rows than the Saudi. But before I go buying it just wanted to make sure! Thanks for all the info on your following posts as well.
That is the standard one, the Saudi cooker is like 9 or 10 rows.


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Discussion Starter #32
1B0BB058-0876-4724-8894-6FF9C35FB399.jpeg

Got the light bar out of the way to help the intercooler out! Now just to go pickup the lower grille from @Blown F-150 tonight so the intercooler doesn’t take a beating!
 

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I remember seeing some accessory in a picture where the rear leaf springs were replaced with some device (I think, but my memory sucks) or maybe not replaced, but it was black and had a box at one end you bolted it to the frame or something like that? Sorry it’s so vague, but that’s all I remember and I could have sworn it was something to do with towing.
Can anyone tell me what that item is?


2013 F150 XLT 3.5L SCrew. AFE Magnum Force Stage-2 Dual 3-1/2" CAI, Mishimoto Performance Intercooler with Pipes, TurboSmart SP Supersonic BOV Kit , Team RXP Heat Exchanged Dual Catch Can, AEM Coil Packs, SCT/Bully Dog BDX Tuner w/5* Tuning Custom Tunes, AFE Atlas 4" Aluminized Steel Cat-Back
 

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I found what it was.... Stifflers Long Bar Traction System

I was kinda close. Lmao.

https://5startuning.com/product/2009-2014-f150-stifflers-long-bar-traction-system-09-14-4wd/


2013 F150 XLT 3.5L SCrew. AFE Magnum Force Stage-2 Dual 3-1/2" CAI, Mishimoto Performance Intercooler with Pipes, TurboSmart SP Supersonic BOV Kit , Team RXP Heat Exchanged Dual Catch Can, AEM Coil Packs, SCT/Bully Dog BDX Tuner w/5* Tuning Custom Tunes, AFE Atlas 4" Aluminized Steel Cat-Back
 

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yeah I’ve actually been thinking about finding some kind of little grille to put down there in its place that still allows air through better. Don’t want it wide open so the cac gets ruined!

I wasn’t thinking it was necessary but had the truck parked and figured it’d make for a fun little project, besides there are some steep grade mountain passes around here so keeping the brakes a little cooler should help them last a little longer at the very least, I imagine there has to be some brake fade on a long decent regardless as j have heard these engines don’t do much for engine braking. guess we will see if it does much. Worst case I spent 40 bucks haha.

I imagine with the max tow having stiffer leafs my suspension should be alright with a wd hitch anyway? or should I look into bags etc?
I don't know much about what they say on this site. I pull a 60000 lb trailer and have a good WDH. Then I added air bags and my trailer pulls much better. It really compliments the WDH. I also added the MORryde 3000 suspension to the trailer and that also helps considerably.
 

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Question: I have air bags on my truck, keep them inflated at least 10 psi. (should I add more?). So I was wondering , should I change out my shocks at 97,000. It does seem not to be as smooth ride as before? And twice I have heard and felt a loud CLUNCK in the rear end. only twice now. when shifting to drive from reverse. I checked the diff fluid, it's full. mater of fact it looks to be leaking at the seal but fluid is above the fill hole a little. Wonder if too much fluid was added when I had it changed.
 

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Question: I have air bags on my truck, keep them inflated at least 10 psi. (should I add more?). So I was wondering , should I change out my shocks at 97,000. It does seem not to be as smooth ride as before? And twice I have heard and felt a loud CLUNCK in the rear end. only twice now. when shifting to drive from reverse. I checked the diff fluid, it's full. mater of fact it looks to be leaking at the seal but fluid is above the fill hole a little. Wonder if too much fluid was added when I had it changed.
May be U-joint(s)?
 

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I think he's talking
I don't know much about what they say on this site. I pull a 60000 lb trailer and have a good WDH. Then I added air bags and my trailer pulls much better. It really compliments the WDH. I also added the MORryde 3000 suspension to the trailer and that also helps considerably.
Tell us you meant to type 6000 pounds and not 60,000 pounds?
 
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