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I don't know much about what they say on this site. I pull a 60000 lb trailer and have a good WDH. Then I added air bags and my trailer pulls much better. It really compliments the WDH. I also added the MORryde 3000 suspension to the trailer and that also helps considerably.
Lots of fellas here would give a thumbs up to air bags and a good WDH. No controversy there.

But worn out shocks are kind of counterproductive to good towing setup.
So really no good reason to keep them beyond their performance life. We are quick to address worn tires and brakes. But we often just live with poor damping.

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Ha! I might try it once I manually override the engine fans! (y)
 

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Rofl! That dude is probably changing a tire.
 

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Wow. That's no joke. I thought you were stringing me along there for a minute. Thanks for the link.
 

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q> get some Bilsteins on her and you will be super happy!
PS....over 90k with towing thrown in and those shocks are in dire need of some attention.


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You're going to have a lot of friction loss in those brake ducts as many bends as you have in there. Getting those lines straight would dramatically increase air flow.
Consider using aluminum smooth bore cloths dryer material. NOT the flexible kind with ridges. It will greatly reduce air flow restriction.
 

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Here I fixed the diagram so it makes more sense. The arrows do not indicate flow direction, just which ends connect to what.
View attachment 165010
This is what it looks like now... it looks like it’s all set up for a trans cooler. There’s a bracket for it. The truck does have the tow/haul button on the shifter.



2013 F150 XLT 3.5L SCrew. AFE Magnum Force Stage-2 Dual 3-1/2" CAI, Mishimoto Performance Intercooler with Pipes, TurboSmart SP Supersonic BOV Kit , Team RXP Heat Exchanged Dual Catch Can, AEM Coil Packs, SCT/Bully Dog BDX Tuner w/5* Tuning Custom Tunes, AFE Atlas 4" Aluminized Steel Cat-Back
 

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That looks like part #7 in the diagram. Is the bottom of that metal tube connected to part #11? If so, it looks like you just have to unhook the rubber hose end from the top of the radiator, then this looks like it may connect to the bottom of the trans cooler. Then you just need part #2 to finish the other end off. Hard to tell without more photos of part #11 to know if it's the same tubes of different tubes.
 

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That looks like part #7 in the diagram. Is the bottom of that metal tube connected to part #11? If so, it looks like you just have to unhook the rubber hose end from the top of the radiator, then this looks like it may connect to the bottom of the trans cooler. Then you just need part #2 to finish the other end off. Hard to tell without more photos of part #11 to know if it's the same tubes of different tubes.
I believe you’re correct. It was dark when I took the picture, and it’s been raining/snowing since. Hope to get out today to get a better look. But I’m pretty sure all I’ll need is #2 and the actual cooler.


2013 F150 XLT 3.5L SCrew. AFE Magnum Force Stage-2 Dual 3-1/2" CAI, Mishimoto Performance Intercooler with Pipes, TurboSmart SP Supersonic BOV Kit , Team RXP Heat Exchanged Dual Catch Can, AEM Coil Packs, SCT/Bully Dog BDX Tuner w/5* Tuning Custom Tunes, AFE Atlas 4" Aluminized Steel Cat-Back
 

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Here's the diagrams in the service manual. They list a generic part number (7B028) which is the same for both tubes but they are actually different. There are two different part numbers for the outlet tube (with or without "supercooling"). Looks like you just need to swap that one pipe, add the cooler, then the short hose piece on the top. Here's the parts list. Dollar for dollar, one of the best towing upgrades there is. The hard line coming from the transmission looks like it's the same.



Product Description
PriceQuantityTotal
Return PipeReturn Pipe
Part Number: BL3Z-7B028-C
Remove
$28.73$28.73
Inlet HoseInlet Hose
Part Number: 9L3Z-7C410-B
Remove
$19.63$19.63
Oil Cooler AssemblyOil Cooler Assembly
Part Number: DL3Z-7A095-B
Remove
$88.85$88.85
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AUX 3.5L.png
 
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