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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Gentlemen

New to the forum joined a few weeks ago and have been reading and learning. Thank you all for the knowledge you share.

I think I have the towing calculations figured out but wanted to discuss my conclusions here with you guys.

First pic out the payload and GVWR stickers along with the GCWR page from the manual.



163402
163403
163404



So with a 7050 GVWR a 2253 payload and a GCWR of 15900 (3.5 EB 3.15 gears) and a totally empty truck I could tow 11000 pounds of trailer.

Of course me and gear and hitch weight will reduce that amount, say 1500 lbs, that leaves 9500 lbs for trailer and it’s cargo.

Am I thinking about this correctly?

Thanks Don
 

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Holy crap that's a lot of payload. And only a 7,050 GWR. Is that a barebones single-cab longbed, XL 2x4? So you don't have the heavy duty payload package? I believe those were 7,800 GWVR (not sure on that number).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It’s a pretty basic XL SuperCab with the tow package.

Am I doing the calculations correctly?

I don’t know about the payload package. I’m trying to get a build sheet.



163415
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I think with a WDH, new rear shocks and E rated tires I will have a nice tow vehicle.

My trailer goal will be less than 8000 lbs.

What do you all think?
 

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Holy crap that's a lot of payload. And only a 7,050 GWR. Is that a barebones single-cab longbed, XL 2x4? So you don't have the heavy duty payload package? I believe those were 7,800 GWVR (not sure on that number).
Close...7850


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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I’m wondering if the 3.15 rear axle took the rating down 800 from 7850 to 7050? I’m trying to get the build sheet.

I would have preferred the 3.55 with locking, but it had everything else I wanted and was a good deal.

I still think if my calculations are correct and I add the items from my post above I will have a sweet tow vehicle!

With more money for the TT and gas!
 

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I’m wondering if the 3.15 rear axle took the rating down 800 from 7850 to 7050? I’m trying to get the build sheet.

I would have preferred the 3.55 with locking, but it had everything else I wanted and was a good deal.

I still think if my calculations are correct and I add the items from my post above I will have a sweet tow vehicle!

With more money for the TT and gas!
You would have had to order the Heavy Duty Payload Package to get the 7850 lb rating. The HDPP would automatically option 3.73 gears along with stiffer spring, thicker frame rails, beefier rear axle etc. Its not just simply the gearing.

So no the 3.15’s didnt hurt the GVWR, you just dont have HDPP. A truck with 3.55’s would have the same GVWR as yours does.
 

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Hello Gentlemen

New to the forum joined a few weeks ago and have been reading and learning. Thank you all for the knowledge you share.

I think I have the towing calculations figured out but wanted to discuss my conclusions here with you guys.

First pic out the payload and GVWR stickers along with the GCWR page from the manual.



View attachment 163402 View attachment 163403 View attachment 163404


So with a 7050 GVWR a 2253 payload and a GCWR of 15900 (3.5 EB 3.15 gears) and a totally empty truck I could tow 11000 pounds of trailer.

Of course me and gear and hitch weight will reduce that amount, say 1500 lbs, that leaves 9500 lbs for trailer and it’s cargo.

Am I thinking about this correctly?

Thanks Don
if you put 1500 lbs of weight on the truck, then yes you would have ~9600 lbs of trailer left in your GCWR.

Its not clear to me if you are including the tongue weigh of the trailer in that 1500 lbs or not. If not, then no, you are not capable of 9600 lbs of trailer. 1500lb of cargo leaves you with 750 lbs of payload left over. That is enough for a ~5500 lb travel trailer assuming ~13% tongue wieght.

If you are including the hitch weight in the 1500 lbs then you should not be subtracting it separately from the GCWR. It should just be part of the trailers weight. The GCW is simply the weight of the truck(plus its cargo)+ the weight of the trailer(plus it's cargo).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks everyone!

I think I get it. With GVWR of 7050 I need to keep the “total” load in the truck (gas/me/passengers/things in cab and bed) below 6000 lbs.

That leaves me with 1050 payload left for the tongue weight.

At 13% that’s a loaded trailer weight of 8077 lbs.

The 8077 plus 6000 is 14077 and below the GCWR of 15900.

So a 8000 lbs trailer is within reach. If I keep my truck payload below 1200 lbs.
 

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Thanks everyone!

I think I get it. With GVWR of 7050 I need to keep the “total” load in the truck (gas/me/passengers/things in cab and bed) below 6000 lbs.

That leaves me with 1050 payload left for the tongue weight.

At 13% that’s a loaded trailer weight of 8077 lbs.

The 8077 plus 6000 is 14077 and below the GCWR of 15900.

So a 8000 lbs trailer is within reach. If I keep my truck payload below 1200 lbs.
Yes I would think so. You can do a lot with 2250 lbs of payload.
 

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My next purchase will be an Andersen WDH. This design is a far cry from what I used 20 years ago!
First off Love my Anderson, secondly if I were you before you filler up I would take it and get a weight of the vehicle. Depending who you ask... some people will tell you payload is counted with a full tank of gas and a single 150lb driver included. Others will tell you that it is simply the dry weight of the vehicle.

I personally have no idea and have only ever had the weight on a scrapyard scale (6200lb tare weight 3 people and all of my tools on a 2011 SCREW) but it could be good to know what you are actually dealing with.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the opinion on the Anderson WDH.

I also went to a scrap yard this am and weighed the truck. 4740 with a little over 1/2 tank of fuel and otherwise empty (no driver).

This confirmed to me the Payload Sticker is accurate and validates my towing calculations.

163659


Next upgrade will be the Bilstein 4600 shocks. Rear first.

I’m slowing getting there!

BTW looking some TT’s today.

Thanks again guys for the advice/information.
 

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I would also look strongly at the 4pt equalizer or the Curt True-Track.

With my Curt I don't have to fool with washers to tilt the head. There are two clips with pre set adjustment holes, I loosen a little, tilt, and tighten the bolts. It's much easier than the old washer way.

The equalizer still uses washers.

Both use square bars that rest in a solid keeper of sorts to both control sway and distribute weight. Chain style bars have to rely on additional parts to help with sway.

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I would also look strongly at the 4pt equalizer or the Curt True-Track.

With my Curt I don't have to fool with washers to tilt the head. There are two clips with pre set adjustment holes, I loosen a little, tilt, and tighten the bolts. It's much easier than the old washer way.

The equalizer still uses washers.

Both use square bars that rest in a solid keeper of sorts to both control sway and distribute weight. Chain style bars have to rely on additional parts to help with sway.

Sent from my Moto Z3 Play using Tapatalk
I picked up my equalizer used and so far it has been fantastic. I towed through Wyoming yesterday at 70mph with 20mph wind and 40mph gusts and had one hand on the wheel and a sausage and egg mcmuffin in the other. Its a really nice setup.
 

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I'm really liking my Curt TT so far. The real test comes at the end of this month when we head to the mountains with it.

Sent from my Moto Z3 Play using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Just looked at the Equal i zer. Also talked to my brother in law. He pulls a 9000 lbs. TT with one. He’s very happy with it. Told me he’s pulled thru some sketchy weather conditions and over some rough roads.

I know set up also has a lot to do with how it tows but it’s nice to have several recommendations on all three hitches.

Setting up this truck is just as much fun as adding farkles to my motorcycle!

Thanks all!

Don
 

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Don't forget to look at the Curt True-Track! It has all the features that make the 4 pt equal I zer such a good hitch. 4 points of sway control, the spring loaded detents, solid bars, etc. But like I said, it has an easier and quicker method of adjusting hitch head tilt, and it was about $100 cheaper.

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