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Almost to 60k miles and figure it's time to change some fluids. I can't believe how expensive the LV transmission ($6+/qt) and especially the Premium Synthetic Hypoid Gear Lubricant XY-75W85-QL is at $22/qt (need 3 qts).

Here is what I show from the owner's manual:
Front Axle: Motorcraft SAE 80W-90 Premium Rear Axle Lubricant XY-80W90 (1.75qt)
Rear Axle: Motorcraft SAE 75W-85 Premium Synthetic Hypoid Gear Lubricant XY-75W85-QL (2.75qt)
Transmission: Motorcraft MERCON LV Automatic Transmission Fluid MERCON LV XT-10-QLVC (13.1 complete change/7qt dropping pan)
Transfer Case with 4A: Motorcraft MERCON LV Automatic Transmission Fluid MERCON XT-10-QLVC (1.5qt)
Transmission Filter: FT-188
Approximate cost for above: $190. Can't imagine what the dealer would charge!

I picked up the replacement pan with a drain plug in it to make future changes less messy as well.
Any thoughts?
 

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Now I know the number of posts and visitors are down since the change. The would normally be several replis to a post like this.
 

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OP - looking forward to hearing how your maintenance actions turn out. Did you consider any aftermarket fluids, like Redline or RP? I had good luck with them in my previous truck (2001 Silverado 4WD) and would like to switch the differentials to one of them. I want to service my transmission as well.
 

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Everything went as smooth as I had hoped. Only one slight issue - I didn't check how tight the drain plug on the new pan was. After a couple of days I notice a small spot on my driveway. Tightened it up and it's great now.

I started with the rear end since I knew I had to use Permatex and let it dry. Unbolted it, used a putty knife to slowly cut through the sealant at the bottom (leaving two top bolts in but slightly loose so the cover would not fall off) and everything drained right into the pan. Cleaned it all out, wire wheeled the mating surface and used some brake cleaner on it. Permatex sealed it and let it sit overnight. It took almost the 2.75qts it called for before leaking out the fill hole.

Next was the transmission which I though was going to be a nightmare. I put down a 4'x4' piece of paneling I had, then a large drop cloth and my catch can. Slowly started loosening bolts. Pan stayed in place after all of them were removed, leaving the two corner bolts in but loose that are above the sway bar. Slowly pulled the front of the pan and let it drain until I couldn't tilt it. Pulled the last two bolts and poured the rest out. Maybe spilled an ounce at most. Could not believe it. Let it drip into the pan for about an hour while I changed the oil and did a couple other projects. Cleaned the mating surfaces and gasket with brake cleaner and bolted it up with the new pan. I had 6.75 quarts come out and put back just over 6.5. Let it sit a bit, warmed it up and the dip stick looked good. Not sure why it didn't take that last 2-3 ounces. The filter fell off when I dropped the pan. The rubber o-ring/gasket came off with it, but it doesn't do a great job holding the filter in place so you have to get it in there then be careful putting the pan on. It does actually rest on the pan so you can get it lined up the slip everything together.

Transfer case was super easy. Drained it, clean the plug and closed it up. Filled it with the new fluid and put that plug back in.

I skipped the front axle after reading about it. Not that it is hard but you cannot pull the cover very easily because of other things in the way. But I skipped it because unless you're actually in 4wd the gears don't spin much if any. I'll do it at 120k. But to do it you have to have a vacuum pump to suck out the fluid then just pump in the new stuff.

Next day, after filling the rear end, I cleaned all the areas with brake cleaner so I could tell if there were any leaks. Other than the new drain bolt mentioned above it was all good. Took me probably 5 hours but that also included lunch and running to the store, twice.

As far as using other fluids, I thought about it but when I checked RockAuto the cost for everything was about $130 (not including the new transmission pan) so I just bought all Motorcraft. That also included a gallon of premixed coolant because I also changed to a 180* thermostat.

I didn't take any pics but on YouTube there is a guy - FordTechMakuloco - that has videos or everything. Since he did those and the vehicles are all on a lift where you can see everything I figured my attempt would be sub-par.
 

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The new drain plug pan makes it super easy. I've drained and refilled my transmission fluid twice now. I measured 5 quarts 11 ounces out and refilled. I drive around until the tranny temp gets up to 200 degrees and verify the level on the dipstick.
I'm at 96K miles right now. I haven't changed my xfer case or diff fluids but they still look brand new. I do pull a 8000lb toyhauler travel trailer so I'll probably do the rear diff and t-case around 100K.
 

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The new drain plug pan makes it super easy. I've drained and refilled my transmission fluid twice now. I measured 5 quarts 11 ounces out and refilled. I drive around until the tranny temp gets up to 200 degrees and verify the level on the dipstick.
I'm at 96K miles right now. I haven't changed my xfer case or diff fluids but they still look brand new. I do pull a 8000lb toyhauler travel trailer so I'll probably do the rear diff and t-case around 100K.
Why the early change of these fluids. By schedule their not due, i believe to well over 100k. I can see the rear dif. if you've submerged the axle.
Jim
 

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For me I look at it like this, Ford calls for either 100 or 150k on the fluids but since they won't be paying for the repairs at such a high mileage I figure it's cheap insurance. Just like changing my oil at 4-5k miles instead of 7500.
I drive my truck hard and tow some so preventative maintenance is just something I like to do.
 

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What did you fill the t-case with? Mercon LV?
 

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For me I look at it like this, Ford calls for either 100 or 150k on the fluids but since they won't be paying for the repairs at such a high mileage I figure it's cheap insurance. Just like changing my oil at 4-5k miles instead of 7500.
I drive my truck hard and tow some so preventative maintenance is just something I like to do.
Ford also uses synthetic blend oil at dealerships with a CRAZY oil change interval that freaks me out.

There's so many different reasons that a manufacturer can have bad-for-the-consumer recommendations.

I guarantee you that you can find engineers AT Ford that would "off the record" recommend much different recommendations than the owners manual states for lots of things.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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Why the early change of these fluids. By schedule their not due, i believe to well over 100k. I can see the rear dif. if you've submerged the axle.
Jim
I have pulled 4 different travel trailers with this truck since new. My latest has a GVWR of 8000lbs. Preventive maintenance is easy and cheaper in the long run.
 
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