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@FUHL I didn't read the other comments, but I had the SAME problem when I mount my snow tires (separate rims) back in 2013.

I modified a larger 3 prong gear puller and used a socket extension 1/2" drive, that I put in the center to increase it's length. I then have each prong on the metal part of the wheel, and keep turning until it pops off.

When it first happened, my brother and I tried about a half dozen of Old School tricks (including heat) ... nothing worked.

That was when I went through my tool chest, found the large 3 prong gear puller - put the socket extension on the center part, and worked like a charge without any hammering etc.

https://www.bearingscanada.com/product-p/OTC-1027-Mechanical-Grip-O-Mat.htm?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhL-nkP3D4QIVg7fACh1yrggoEAYYBiABEgLDKfD_BwE

Here is a link to a similar gear puller I used.
 

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I've tried many ways to break them free but the one and only successful method involved smacking the inside of the tire with a big sledge hammer.
 

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I've had the same problem every single time I need to pull the wheels. I've had to get my buddy to come help me. Sprayed WD40 all inside the rim and lug nuts. Then we took turns hitting the tire with a sledge hammer, with wood in front of the rim so not to damage it. It finally came off, but it took forever. Good luck.
 

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So physical...ok you will need pice of 2x4
1 loose your lug nuts keep it loose of the wheel you want to remove
2 lift the side of your truck/car you want to remove a wheel
3 put 2x4 underneath of tire half way of it’s width
4 drop your truck/car on 2x4 in control matter

It works always beats driving around with loose lug nuts or beating tire with sledge hammer
 

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Us hillbillies like to get out the blow torch when metal gets stuck together... with today's powdercoated rims, not sure this would be the smartest idea but I wonder if simply getting things hot on an aggressive drive (with lots of braking) would help to free your wheel...

Seriously though, I had this problem systemically on an A4 I used to have until I started coating the mating surfaces with anti seize. Once you get it loose, be sure to take this step to prevent the problem in the future. I like to put a little on the lug studs too
 

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I know its crazy, but i used a spare tire jack,
scissor style.
Put a 3/4 socket on an adapter with my impact driver and worked it off.
you will have to move spots to work it off evenly.
I did it for my 02 Honda accord, and '10 chrysler town and country.... keep in mind you will need to keep the caliper up and out of the way
 

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I had the same issue and here is what I did:

I went down to the local part store and borrowed a little 7 & 5 ton gear puller. The 3 jaws are held on by a simple nut at each of the 3 pivots. Combine the jaws on the 5 ton to the jaws on the 7 ton and WHAM! A Ford F-150 PITA rear rotor puller is born.

In all seriousness, just return the tool and they'll give you the refund. It's free.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Got them off.
Penetrating oil soaked for a week. Sledge hammer on the backside.
Thanks for all of the suggestions.
 

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Next time just put a bottle jack on the inside rim of the opposite wheel, then position either a 4x4 post or steel pipe between the jack and the inside of the rim your trying to remove and just start jacking. It works like a charm on the 18 wheelers I've had the same road salt rust issues with.
 
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FUHL
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