My 2018, built in October 2018 has that updated strategy. I found out because my front shaft was spinning for a while on 'cold' starts and causing a racket (before I removed it) even when the truck was in 2wd.

 

I'm kinda amazed to see him eat a little crow.
I like his generosity in sharing his knowledge and building up his channel, but he has some pretty thin skin in his comments section for folks that don't agree with even the slightest thing.

By the way, this TSB doesn't apply to 2020 and above because there isn't an "above 2020". Ford no longer uses a vacuum dependent IWE after 2020.

 

By the way, this TSB doesn't apply to 2020 and above because there isn't an "above 2020". Ford no longer uses a vacuum dependent IWE after 2020.

What do they use?

 

The 2021+ either has an electrically engaged IWE or it has a permanently engaged IWE.

No more vacuum lines, resovoir, check valves......

 

This sounds a lot like the old days of the ford rangers when they deleted those terribly unreliable pulse vacuum hubs and went with a live axle instead. The difference between the rangers and the F150s is vacuum is used constantly to maintain hub unlock on F150, where the rangers were a momentary vacuum pulse to click in and out of lock. They didn’t work.

 

I’ve been recommending a lot of guys to cap the vacuum source for the IWEs. More so people who off-road. You will notice about .5-1mpg loss.

There are scenarios where the IWE routing has caused unstable manifold vacuum. Not only does it pull vacuum on the IWEs, but there’s also the vacuum reservoir located above the master cylinder. That has been know to warp and leak.

 

I suppose the Dorman deletes would be appropriate for those scenarios

 

So cap the iwe and the vacuum lines?

Last time I did this my t stat coincidentally went bad, I attributed my higher than normal coolant temps to additional spinning front axle mass. Then I sucked at installing them, breaking a few along the way. Good thing for lifetime warranties.

 

So cap the iwe and the vacuum lines?

Last time I did this my t stat coincidentally went bad, I attributed my higher than normal coolant temps to additional spinning front axle mass. Then I sucked at installing them, breaking a few along the way. Good thing for lifetime warranties.

This should help:

 

If spinning those cv's were to put you over the top of your cooling capacity, you already have a cooling issue. Or there's something very wrong with the front differential?

 

Exactly. When I drained my front diff fluid, it came out milky in color, which is unsettling. Apparently the gears are coated in white marker or something. Idk, it doesn't make a peep and it's be never been submerged. So that drain/fill attributed to my concerns.


I learned a lot about iwe, CV axles, and how not to do front end work.

 

Yea, you became my go-to regarding if I ever had any questions.