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Justinjs

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2024 Black CC F-250 4x4 7.3 (non-ecoboost)
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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Before winter hits with the slew of IWE issues, check out the latest video for newer models.

 
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My 2018, built in October 2018 has that updated strategy. I found out because my front shaft was spinning for a while on 'cold' starts and causing a racket (before I removed it) even when the truck was in 2wd.
 
I'm kinda amazed to see him eat a little crow.
I like his generosity in sharing his knowledge and building up his channel, but he has some pretty thin skin in his comments section for folks that don't agree with even the slightest thing.

By the way, this TSB doesn't apply to 2020 and above because there isn't an "above 2020". Ford no longer uses a vacuum dependent IWE after 2020.
 
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I’ve been recommending a lot of guys to cap the vacuum source for the IWEs. More so people who off-road. You will notice about .5-1mpg loss.

There are scenarios where the IWE routing has caused unstable manifold vacuum. Not only does it pull vacuum on the IWEs, but there’s also the vacuum reservoir located above the master cylinder. That has been know to warp and leak.
 
I’ve been recommending a lot of guys to cap the vacuum source for the IWEs. More so people who off-road. You will notice about .5-1mpg loss.

There are scenarios where the IWE routing has caused unstable manifold vacuum. Not only does it pull vacuum on the IWEs, but there’s also the vacuum reservoir located above the master cylinder. That has been know to warp and leak.
I suppose the Dorman deletes would be appropriate for those scenarios
 
I suppose the Dorman deletes would be appropriate for those scenarios
Yes and no. The Dorman deletes keep the vacuum lines in place but removes the ability for the IWEs themselves to function. You will still be prone to any leakage from the lines or reservoir.

Ford recommends capping the vacuum source.
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Discussion starter · #9 ·
So cap the iwe and the vacuum lines?

Last time I did this my t stat coincidentally went bad, I attributed my higher than normal coolant temps to additional spinning front axle mass. Then I sucked at installing them, breaking a few along the way. Good thing for lifetime warranties.
 
If spinning those cv's were to put you over the top of your cooling capacity, you already have a cooling issue. Or there's something very wrong with the front differential? :)
 
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Discussion starter · #12 ·
If spinning those cv's were to put you over the top of your cooling capacity, you already have a cooling issue. Or there's something very wrong with the front differential? :)
Exactly. When I drained my front diff fluid, it came out milky in color, which is unsettling. Apparently the gears are coated in white marker or something. Idk, it doesn't make a peep and it's be never been submerged. So that drain/fill attributed to my concerns.


I learned a lot about iwe, CV axles, and how not to do front end work.
 
Exactly. When I drained my front diff fluid, it came out milky in color, which is unsettling. Apparently the gears are coated in white marker or something. Idk, it doesn't make a peep and it's be never been submerged. So that drain/fill attributed to my concerns.


I learned a lot about iwe, CV axles, and how not to do front end work.
The milky color is condensation in the diff fluid. Pretty much every 4wd F-150 has it. The front diff does not get used as often as the rear. The vent line located below the master cylinder is supposed to allow moisture to travel out, but it doesn’t do that good of a job.

If you’re ever on a gravel/dirt road, it does not hurt at all to switch into 4WD for a few seconds. That just helps move the fluid around rather than remain stagnant. I try to do that at least once a week.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
The milky color is condensation in the diff fluid. Pretty much every 4wd F-150 has it. The front diff does not get used as often as the rear. The vent line located below the master cylinder is supposed to allow moisture to travel out, but it doesn’t do that good of a job.

If you’re ever on a gravel/dirt road, it does not hurt at all to switch into 4WD for a few seconds. That just helps move the fluid around rather than remain stagnant. I try to do that at least once a week.
Clearly. I thought it was condensation too, someone said white marker from the factory... I'm going with condensation as well.

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The 2021+ either has an electrically engaged IWE or it has a permanently engaged IWE.

No more vacuum lines, resovoir, check valves......
This sounds a lot like the old days of the ford rangers when they deleted those terribly unreliable pulse vacuum hubs and went with a live axle instead. The difference between the rangers and the F150s is vacuum is used constantly to maintain hub unlock on F150, where the rangers were a momentary vacuum pulse to click in and out of lock. They didn’t work.
 
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