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I hooked up the pump to the line that feeds both wastegates. My driver's side WG starts to move at 5 psi. My passenger side WG starts to move at about 10 psi. Problem? I think so. Haven't pulled the BOV to check for tears yet.
 

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The movement is subtle. you really see it when you release the pressure quickly and they return to the closed position. I'm also wondering if the wastegates actually activate a lot in regular driving. My scangauge rarely shows a positive boost level during normal city driving. It stays from -10psi to about -3psi (in vacuum) most of the time. I would imagine towing our trailer the boost levels will rise above 0 and come out of vacuum, but that doesn't seem to be the case most of the time. So any discrepency between the two turbo wastegates shouldn't really be a problem right now, i think. correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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Sould you see a lot of movement? I put 20lbs. on mine the other day and didn't really see any movement. I was basically checking to see if they leaked which they didn't.
I'll get a vid up showing what I see with my set-up. As TCP2 call out, it isn't super easy to see. I have read about a few folks that have had WG's stick on them and that would also cause the symptoms that are the topic of this thread.
 

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The movement is subtle. you really see it when you release the pressure quickly and they return to the closed position. I'm also wondering if the wastegates actually activate a lot in regular driving. My scangauge rarely shows a positive boost level during normal city driving. It stays from -10psi to about -3psi (in vacuum) most of the time. I would imagine towing our trailer the boost levels will rise above 0 and come out of vacuum, but that doesn't seem to be the case most of the time. So any discrepency between the two turbo wastegates shouldn't really be a problem right now, i think. correct me if I'm wrong.
The way I see is that the WG's can't even move until you hit that "5psi" thresehold as there just isn't enough pressure to move the spring. So that is why we notice the "hooting" during moderate acceleration.

I just did a round trip that was roughly 2000 miles while experiencing this issue. It won't impact much for the first hour of driving or so, but the ECM seems to start to default to keeping the WG's open after that. I can only assume it's to keep the truck safe and boost levels in line. When it does this, the truck makes little power. So scooting around the city may be fine, but if you plan on getting the HWY, I suggest getting it sorted out sooner rather than later.
 

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I took the blow off valve out today and it seems to be working properly. It looks different than the pictures i've seen, but it moves freely and, although I can't see it, the diaphragm isn't leaking air (blowing into the main part of the valve), which leads me back to the waste-gate. I will let them know when I drop it off on the 28th that there is a difference from side to side and let them check it out. I just hope I don't hear "its normal".
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Hey Guys,
Just wanted to give an update after my recent repairs. I am now 95% fixed and good enough for me at this time not to continue fighting the battle unless things start getting worse. Its worth knowing the full story so here is the skimmed down version.
- Truck was lagging so took it to the dealer last spring before it came off warranty
- They found all kinds of things wrong with timing etc - Replaced cam phazers, timing chain and drivers side turbo
- Shortly after the "hooting" noise started to appear but it was very hard to reproduce and I ran out of warranty.
- Winter came with cold temps and more miles on the truck and the hooting got much worse
- REPLACED BOV with stock - no defect seen in old unit and no change in noise
- Took it to 3 shops the last of which was a tuner turbo shop who verified all hoses lines and WG open pressures as good
- Did a PCM UPDATE which made a significant difference - decreased noise occurrence by over half. Not gone but better
- Did some more routine maintenance and found that my MAP sensor on the intake would not clean up well and seem to have corroded wires
- REPLACED MAP sensor with battery disconnected so the truck could start a fresh program. - Another 30-35% improvement. So bad enough to run like crap but not bad enough to through a code.
Made a trip that was 6 hours round trip this last weekend so I got to see the truck work in various conditions and the noise is VERY hard to pick up. So much so that I wonder if it was always there at this level and I may have missed it before but now my ears are tuned to listen for it. I am crazy about how the truck sounds and can tell whether or not I have 87 or 91 octane by the sound of the turbos. Any way, much better throttle response and slightly better fuel mileage. It was a screwed up multi factor situation so I hope this might help others.
 

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Glad to see it worked out in the end! I wonder if the last bit is from the silencers in the intake that a lot of people take out to hear the spool up noise
 

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Took it to the dealer today. Did the recall stuff but “couldn’t reproduce” the hooting noise. Said they verified the function of the turbos and everything is fine. Hooting the same on the drive home. Guess I will have to wait until it turns into something bigger or get used to it. I did change the oil on Tuesday and will confirm the transmission fluid level later just to be sure it isn’t something silly like that. Maybe it’s normal. I do have another three years of drivetrain warranty and it’s been documented now.
 

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Just a brief update. The howl is still there, but seems to be quieter when the coolant and transmission fluid are at full temperature.

Tried recently:
-remove the air spinner things from the intake - no difference.
-removed the passenger side wheel and wheelwell liner and checked the wastegate on the passenger turbo closely. it does actually start to move slightly at 5psi so my initial diagnosis isn't the issue.
-checked the transmission fluid level and added a few ounces of lubeguard red. - no difference.
-checked the transfer case level, all good. I do have redline D4 transmission fluid in there and am wondering if the ester (higher oxidation levels, maybe) is a possible cause.
-driving a bit with the windows open, the sound seems to come from the back of the truck more than the front, now, but that could just be perception.

I am thinking of changing the TC to ford's recommended fluid. The sound was there last winter before changing to redline, so probably not it either.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
So I am no longer 95% fixed. With the fluctuations of temperature this last month I have had a few mornings driving in - temperatures and a couple of days with unmistakable hooting again. Of course now that its warm all is good. So now I wonder if things are fine right after the reflash or memory clear and then once the truck starts to 'modify' shift points it creates some back pressure. I am now leaning this direction as right after the mem clear the truck was holding better rpms and all was good, then when it started doing the fuel mileage changes to hold a higher gear I start to hear the noise again. Most noticeable cold, going from 20 or 30 km/hr up another 20-30 km/hr in speed with light to moderate gas pedal pressure. In this situation my truck tries to hold the highest gear possible and seems like its building boost, then when I let off the low rpm seems to not be able to accept the boost and it produces the noise as the turbo spools down. Still shaking my head with all the testing and parts changed. I am really wondering what the heck to do next.
 

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Same with mine. Same sound during the same driving situation. Do two trucks with the same noise make it "normal"? I'm going to try driving from cold in "sport" mode and see if it's still there. I tried it in sport mode today when hot, but it's hard to keep the speed down and actually listen. It does keep rpms significantly higher is sport mode. Worth a try.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
I am so tempted to try a tune as they optimize the shift points. Also toying with the idea of a real BOV - if the advertising is correct they are better at managing boost due to their quick response. That all said, I am tired of guessing and dumping money into an otherwise good truck and just want a real solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
I also had a question for the other guys having this same problem. Does anyone out there have an after market vent to atmosphere bov like the Turbosmart TS-0215-1367. The guys at the turbo shop did tell me that the noise is definitely a surge. Wondering if the computer is not able to adapt enough to prevent this issue then maybe the new bov can - they claim its much better. I mentioned this before as a possible item to try but interested if someone else has already gone that route and what the results are.
Thanks
 

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I’m running a Tial BOV and would say it responds pretty quick. I think the TurboSmart is even better. Used ones pop up On Kijiji here and there if you keep an eye out.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Having trouble with this train of thought. I can hold it at a steady speed (30km/h) and the hooting is there and uniformly stable. I can keep it hooting forever. The definition of a surge would be a brief moment of the issue, whereas this can happen indefinitely with the right inputs. It's more like a resonance for me. I can hear it during gear shifts very briefly as the engine passed through the same rpm range...at least from 2nd to 4th gear or so.

It is more like the PWM signal from some control system resonating in the solenoid it's controlling. I have designed control systems to run actuators with a PWM signal and this sounds like that type of system at a very low (audible) frequency instead of above 20k Hz where you would usually run it.

I also had a question for the other guys having this same problem. Does anyone out there have an after market vent to atmosphere bov like the Turbosmart TS-0215-1367. The guys at the turbo shop did tell me that the noise is definitely a surge. Wondering if the computer is not able to adapt enough to prevent this issue then maybe the new bov can - they claim its much better. I mentioned this before as a possible item to try but interested if someone else has already gone that route and what the results are.
Thanks
 
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