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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Problem Description: Moaning, groaning, barking, quacking coming from BOV on 2011-2012 EcoBoosts. Commonly occurs while gently letting out of throttle under low boost conditions, and while going down highway under light TIP.
Possibly related: Hiccups or surging under light TIP in high gears on on highway under light acceleration.
Repair: Replace "Turbocharger Bypass Valve Solenoid, Ford P/N BL3Z9K378A
Cost: $44 and about one hour time.

eco wastegate2.gif

I had been fighting the BOVs on my EcoScrew for a little bit. The problem first manifested as a hiccup going down the interstate under light TIP when approaching a slight incline. Infrequently, I would also get a buzzing coming from under the hood that would go away when I got out of the gas. I disassembled the BOVs and inspected them for diaphragm tears. The only had ~18k miles and looked to be in like new condition. I also inspected the other vacuum lines under the hood and found nothing out of the normal. After reassembly of the BOV's, the hiccup went away, but the quacking/groaning/moaning got much worse and happened every time I got out of the throttle. I replaced the two solenoids that control the BOV's on these early engines, and the sounds have gone away completely.

The easiest way to get to the BOV's is through the wheel wells. Remove the wheels and the turbos will be right behind the wheel well liner. Replacement is really straight forward. I did add hose clamps to any end that did not have one originally.

I don't believe this fix will apply to the 2013 and later EcoBoosts that use the eBOV on the CAC instead of the integral BOVs on the turbos. The solenoid is connected to a vacuum reservoir and to a pressure tap on the compressor. Pressure is normally supplied to the BOV to keep it seated. The ECU commands the BOV event by activating the solenoid connecting the BOV to the vacuum source. Any leaks in the vacuum side, including the check valve, will result in a low vacuum signal and sloppy BOV event.

ETA:
If this does not completely remedy the issue, inspect the check valve between the intake manifold and the "T" that feeds the solenoids. The "T" will also connect to a vacuum reservoir mounted on the passenger firewall.
 

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I'm hearing a funny noise from mine too. I put in turbosmaort bovs, which reduced the noise but did not eliminate it. I think I'll give this a shot once I can find the time again.
 

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Im going to try this out. I have had the same issue for a long time. Just got two off of ebay for $35 shipped.
 

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Hey pvtschultz, just a couple quick questions. What is TIP? I'm assuming it is some sort of towing condition? Also, is there anyway to test to see if the solenoid is definitely the problem without replacing them? I have a humming sound coming from the front passenger side, funny enough, about where the solenoid looks to be located. But it happens so sporadically that I can't pinpoint the exact conditions when it happens, other than its almost always on the highway. Basically, I can't figure out a way to make it happen. Any help will be greatly appreciated!
 

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@pvtschultz Any chance you have the part number for the one vacuum solenoid that sits on top of the intake manifold? I had a brain fart and blew that one out with contact cleaner and compressed a few months ago I bet that wasnt good for it at all haha and I am suffering from this issue, I want to change that one as a starting point .thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Hey pvtschultz, just a couple quick questions. What is TIP? I'm assuming it is some sort of towing condition? Also, is there anyway to test to see if the solenoid is definitely the problem without replacing them? I have a humming sound coming from the front passenger side, funny enough, about where the solenoid looks to be located. But it happens so sporadically that I can't pinpoint the exact conditions when it happens, other than its almost always on the highway. Basically, I can't figure out a way to make it happen. Any help will be greatly appreciated!
TIP is throttle inlet pressure. The hiccup usually occurs when there is only 0-2 psi at the 3 bar MAP sensor in front of the throttle body.

The buzzing sound/burping/quacking started when the cruise control was on at 70-73 mph (1800-2000 RPM) going down the interstate. It slowly got worse until it did it every time I let off the throttle in a medium fashion (not fast, but not deliberately slow). So basically, the truck is calling for a blow off event but there isn't enough vacuum in the reservoir to quickly snap the BOV piston up, causing the fart/quack/burp. Long drives on the interstate tend to bleed down the vacuum reservoir and my truck with still burp on occation if there isn't a chance to coast and build vacuum again. From what I can tell, the truck calls for a blow off event every time the throttle is lifted some, and probably in between shifts (it's too cold to drive with the windows down to tell right now...)

There is a way to check them with a vacuum gauge and brake bleeder and air compressor. But the cost of all the parts to test is more than just replacing them.
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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So there must be three of these solenoids right? One for each turbo plus one on top that sits on the intake manifold. My truck is a 2012 and I have this solenoid on top of my intake... This picture shows it near the turbo...
 

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Thanks for the tips! The sound can vary is speed... this is on a Stock 2012, it goes MUCH faster once you add a tune.

Got it on video!!! It's hard to hear, but you can hear the engine noise, and a PPSSHHHH sound like you are opening a soda and it only lasts .5 seconds. Any thoughts?


first video:
you will hear the BOV open and close quickly at @ :14, :16, :20. When it does this, it drops about 50-100 rpms, and there is almost a surge when it comes back on.

Second video:
first sounds @ :12, :13, :17, :19. etc.
it's throughout the video, but same issue. I had cruise on and off during the video, as well as tried to re-product the quickness with throttle control but failed.

 

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Discussion Starter #15
My 2011 only has two that I found, one for each turbo. I have a check valve at the intake manifold which goes to a "T". From there it goes to a vacuum reservoir and to another "T" to each turbo.
 

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I bought one new regulator and installed where the intake manifold one is. Issue was still present so I put the old back on and took the new one and tried it on the drivers side turbo. Issue still present. So tomorrow I'm going to get one more new one and put it where the intake one is. Reason I'm not focusing on the passenger side is because the sound seems to be on the drivers side. I will most likely end up changing all three. And I need to check all the tees and check valves still...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Put tension bands (or whatever they are calling those hose clamp things) on ALL of the vacuum line connections. The SHO guys have had plenty of problems fixed by this simple addition. I'm guessing the Ford engineers didn't think that a vacuum line could leak, but time and environment seem to be proving otherwise.
 

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I experienced this same issue summer 2016 on my 2011 4x4 screw. I replaced the solenoid near the manifold, and the problem was solved! Well.. now it's back. Not sure what to do now. I would hate to drop $100 on all three and have the problem come back yet again. Is the vacuum system maybe getting water in it? Is there anyway to dry out the system to see if hose clamps may fix the issue? Any suggestions? Side note; I replaced plugs and drilled a weep hole in my CAC December 2015 after fouling a plug Christmas Eve.
 

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Put tension bands (or whatever they are calling those hose clamp things) on ALL of the vacuum line connections. The SHO guys have had plenty of problems fixed by this simple addition. I'm guessing the Ford engineers didn't think that a vacuum line could leak, but time and environment seem to be proving otherwise.
Where does one find these little tension bands. I guess I could use hose clamps but these bands are easier to work with and look cleaner/more factory.

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