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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Sorry in advance for the long post...
Having problems and wanted to reach out and hopefully get some input from some of the knowledgeable members on here. Thought a separate thread might get more attention and be more helpful than sticking it into my build thread. Haven't put much time or significant miles (only about 3k miles in the last year) on the truck in quite a while and I'm ready to get back in the saddle and get everything sorted and perfect, I do have a few little developments for my build thread and will update it in a bit. I don't drive it as a daily anymore as I mainly use a work truck, every other weekend I'll use it for some errands or just take a stroll on the freeway to break off the cobwebs.

Current Setup:
2011 FX4 chassis
Full bolt-ons
Forged bottom end
Pocket port, fancy valves, springs, and retainers
Full Race GT/ 'OEM+' turbos with block off plates on the diverter valves
TurboSmart IWG-75 wastegate actuators, pretty sure they have 7# springs in them, preloaded to 4 turns I believe
Converted to single TurboSmart BOV on the Full Race charge pipe, reference line from throttle body spacer
Full Race PCV delete kit
Full race dual chamber catch can installed on firewall
Amosil Super Synthetic 0w-40 and Mobil1 filters
99% of the time I'm in manual shift mode with traction and advance trac controls turned off.

Symptoms:
-Top end sounds slightly off and feels like there's unclaimed power on the table
-Overall feels a little laggy at times down low. Sounds funny to complain because in wet-ish conditions it will spin heavy 34" load-E AT tires and kick sideways in 4th gear at 70mh
-Whirring/ turbulence noises like a jet plane, probably just intake noise and wastegate fluctuation noises.
-Lots of air from the BOV when decel or coasting above 2500 - 3k rpm's. Could be normal, could be wastegates not opening enough?
-Not hitting #/min that I'd hope to see. Trying to get as close as possible to the 60 #/min max of the GT turbos, but progress is halted due to the following issue
-Lots of valve train noise, I attribute it to the valves and stiffer springs
-Variable Cam Timing is not hitting its target inputs. See graph below of what @Boostking is commanding vs. what I'm datalogging. Seems to be mechanical rather than tune related
-Odd clacking noises from what I believe are the cam phasers. Only hear it for 1-2 seconds if I'm slowly rolling to a stop, or if I hold idle at around 1,000- 1,200 rpm's.
-Occasional clack at cold start for just a second, I generally prime the motor when its been sitting for a while
-Oil in exhaust. Smells fuel rich and like there's oil being burned
-Oil in hot side pipes and elbows from the compressor outlets
-Hot pipe fittings have popped off the compressor housings before. The clamps provided by Full Race seems to be too wide to leave some unclamped silicone while clamped on the correct side of the barb/ bead rolled type compressor outlet fitting. Temporarily installed a hose clamp on the passenger side and it hasn't had an issue yet
-Lots of signs of oil coming from the BOV. Everything in that vicinity gets some oil film on it
-Catch can not catching any oil. Bone dry since install with the new engine and setup
-I lose about 1/2 - 1 quart of oil between oil changes

Guesses:
I'm assuming the low #/min, VCT advance, turbo seals, and empty catch can are interconnected issues. Plenty of info out there showing increased crankcase pressure raising the oil pressure, which can push oil past the seals, and probably affect VCT functions. I bugged @RMB_Ryan a ways back and flushed the oil and started using Amsoil at his recommendation. No change in datalog results

Approaches:
-My first approach was checking to make sure all my wiring, grounds, vacuum, evap, etc. lines. All seem to be in place and routed correctly to my knowledge.
-Planning to pull apart and check seals on the wastegates and BOV, and pull plugs and coils and send a scope down
-Can I troubleshoot resistance of the phaser solenoids and/ or cam and crank sensors?
-Next step seems to be to add an external oil pressure sensor, and hopefully hook it into my Livewire TS+ device. I reached out to SCT asking if they recommend specific sensors that would work with the analog livewire inputs. They told me to dig around the PIDs, but from what I've read the Gen1 motors don't provide that info to the PCM.
-Been wondering if I should temporarily hook up cheap mechanical gauges to the catch can lines to monitor crankcase vacuum or pressure and drop through the can

Any suggestions on things to check or where to start? Videos or articles I could check out? The video link below seems to be the most relevant I've found, but I don't have IDS tools and assume the dealer wouldn't be too much help or cost effective. I'm very willing to post any more info you guys feel is relevant (vacuum routing, pictures, datalogs, etc.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
-Check the PCV function.
-Check VCT screens for blockage
-Check timing chain for stretch
Thanks for the reply. I forgot to add I have a PCV delete.
And I was hoping to try and troubleshoot things without pulling apart valve covers or front timing cover. We'll see if anybody has ideas or insights or if I'm stuck with the harder stuff
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Does it have crankcase pressure at idle? You can test that by removing the oil cap and placing a piece of paper on top of it.

You should have zero pressure coming out of the cap.
Haven't checked yet but I will when I get home today. I've seen you mention it in other threads and it slipped my mind to check
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Does it have crankcase pressure at idle? You can test that by removing the oil cap and placing a piece of paper on top of it while idling.

You should have zero pressure coming out of the cap.
Checked yesterday and the paper flaps, so positive pressure. Didn't have any time today but I plan to remove and inspect the catch can tomorrow. I think I recall reading somebody had an issue with a blockage or something previously
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, I went out and got you logs today from my truck and they will be completely useless. I forgot to add the PIDs for desired cam positions.

I made some changes to the tune and will try and sneak out tomorrow night and get the correct logs at the same time.


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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I cleaned the truck, wiped down the engine bay, and removed and drained the catch can and that’s it so far. About 2 oz of strong fuel smelling oil.

I'm not on the @Blown F-150 or @sleipnir pace at the moment. I think I'm just gonna have to bite the bullet and remove all the piping and valve covers to inspect compressor wheels and solenoids.

Might be worth the effort to log individual cam banks like Blown's above. In my head if they're different readings its a solenoid. If they're both off then its either 2 bad solenoids, or something like sensors or pressure causing them to misbehave??
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I did pull the valve cover to -AN adapters and found the passenger side full of oil, while the drivers side I could only see black plastic no oil. Does that hint towards anything or par for the course?
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
You can always hook up a boost gauge to the oil cap and read crankcase pressure. Then just go for a drive and watch it. That would give you an idea if it truly is crankcase pressure.
I'll buy a spare cap and tap it. Might still try to gauge the catch can inlet and outlets too because... I dunno
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
One thing to keep in mind, the PCV side(11-12 trucks) is located at the lower portion of the valve cover baffling. That will cause pooling to be visible.

The CCV side is higher up on the valve cover so you will most likely not see pooling at all. It may be pooling on that side as well, just not visible.
I'll have to rattle this around in my brain a bit. We're sucking bypass/ case pressure from the valve covers, so at this point in my head, it seems like the lower passenger port would suck more oil and keep the level lower, and the higher port on drivers side would allow more pooling before getting sucked out. Can you straighten me out? Can't afford a therapist :ROFLMAO:

Maybe the visual will help me if I get around to pulling valve covers this weekend
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
What kind of issues? Vct solenoid or?

You will see intake variable valve timing actual between +3 or so degrees to -60 or so. Typically they are 0 to -60 deg. It is not from valve springs. It is from decking the block and the heads why they roll from *3 to -60 not from the springs at all. Not an issue, just the only thing to note
Thanks for the response and attention. See first post for graphs and a scattered explanation of my symptoms. Intake VCT actual readings are not hitting the targeted settings from the tune, and seem to have a mind of their own. The appear to be laggy/ lazy.
My exhaust phasers appear much steadier than @sleipnir, his are erratic as f**. Mine stay about 15 throughout pulls, but thats also not whats being commanded by the tune

Do you know what issues would be experienced if the solenoids were blocked, clogged, sludged?

Here's data from after I cleaned out the catch can and lines recently
171699

171698
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Following up with some 'data'

I installed an AEM oil pressure sensor into the oil filter/cooler loop, its wired into the Livewire TS device. I can now view and record oil pressure with my datalogs.

With this new gizmo plugged in, I took some more WOT logs. There is no correlation (that I can perceive) between the oil pressure and the VCT issues that I'm experiencing
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Also wanted to use the new oil pressure sensor to compare non-primed cold starts vs priming the engine before starting. There's been years of discussion and speculation that the tensioner or something in the system bleeds oil pressure, causing momentary lack of oiling in the tensioner/phasers/detent pin, leading to premature wear.

After sitting for multiple days, the resting oil pressure was around 17.5 psi. I stabbed the throttle and primed the system until the dash gauge responded. Pre-priming the motor took the pressure up to 18psi.
After a few more days of sitting, I logged a cold start without priming the oil system for comparison.

Again I could see no difference in oil pressure, or the amount of time it took the phasers to react and adjust once started up. However priming the system leads to no phaser clack, and not-priming the system I get a second of clacking noise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
My new thoughts are that the new oil pressure sensor might not be installed in the ideal position to read this issue.
The chain tensioner part of the oil loop may indeed bleed pressure and lead to dry starts, but the oil filter part of the loop (where my sensor is installed) maintains pressure, so I don't see a drop.

Sound plausible?
 

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Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
@RMB_Ryan
2 black and 2 white solenoids, like current? Or are there blue ones or something that are updated?

Are you speculating the solenoids are receiving a weak voltage signal from the harness? Or they react poorly when seeing a 0.5V signal?

Its very odd to me that intake and exhaust both dump to 0*, Repeatedly and consistently on every single WOT pull. And always right at either 5200rpm or 5600rpm
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Wellp... new solenoids didn't resolve the issue, but it may have had an impact. Waiting for input on my datalogs to confirm or deny what my amateur eyes see.

Most of the WOT logs it looks like airflow chokes up around 5600rpm. Then wastegates adjust and boost rises, but not enough to restore airflow. HPFP actual drops form 2400 to 2000psi.
VCT intake and exhaust both flash to 0* at about 6000rpm
6200rpm airflow recovers, then 6300rpm the VCT timing recovers.

Still getting a lot of oil from the blow off valve, still not getting much oil at all in the catch can, still feels laggy then an exaggerated punch, still makes (phaser?) noise on cold starts and randomly at idle/ low revs.
 
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