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Bedding the brakes is absolutely the first thing you do once you have the truck back down on the ground from a brake job. This applies to old pads with new or resurfaced rotors, old rotors with new pads, or new rotors and new pads. Read this white paper from Stop Tech and these brake in procedure from Power Stop &Hawk:

Brake Pad Bed-In

Brake Pad Break-In Procedure | Power Stop

http://www.hawkperformance.com/sites/default/files/downloads/Motorsports_Bedding.pdf

Cannot stress the importance of cleaning up the caliper sliders and lubricating those with a good high temperature lubricant like this one:


Brake Maintenance & Repair : Permatex® Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube

I would think that in braking applications where loctite is needed red high temperature would be used as brakes are high temperature and that heat migrates to all of the parts. This is from Loctite's webpage:


Threadlocker Colors | LOCTITE - Henkel Adhesives North America
 

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Bedding the brakes is absolutely the first thing you do once you have the truck back down on the ground from a brake job. This applies to old pads with new or resurfaced rotors, old rotors with new pads, or new rotors and new pads. Read this white paper from Stop Tech and these brake in procedure from Power Stop &Hawk:

Brake Pad Bed-In

Brake Pad Break-In Procedure | Power Stop

http://www.hawkperformance.com/sites/default/files/downloads/Motorsports_Bedding.pdf

Cannot stress the importance of cleaning up the caliper sliders and lubricating those with a good high temperature lubricant like this one:


Brake Maintenance & Repair : Permatex® Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube

I would think that in braking applications where loctite is needed red high temperature would be used as brakes are high temperature and that heat migrates to all of the parts. This is from Loctite's webpage:


Threadlocker Colors | LOCTITE - Henkel Adhesives North America
See post #57
 

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I saw where you have pointed it out several times throughout the thread and I think one guy tried it but to no avail. I think he was too late or just did not get them hot enough to burn the material off the rotors. Not bedding them in properly can also result in premature brake pad wear so a person does not get the miles out of them.

Pretty much all manufactures have a bedding procedure which is why I listed a few to emphasize your original point. If a person gets pads without a bedding procedure I would think that the Power Stop one would be the most universal of the three I posted but they all have a theme which is get them hot, so dam hot you smell burnt pad, and then cool them down. When you stop really hard or panic stop try if at all possible to not lock your pads to the rotor when you have come to a stop.
 

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yes they are warrantied I had mine replaced twice as long as you do not exceed the mileage for your warranty, the ford brakes are not the best for this size truck
 

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Mine warped when I was cut off at about 14,000 miles. I drove it another couple of thousand miles including a road trip to Virginia and back, they only got worse. The dealer said they had to turn all 4 rotors. I was covered.
I did 30 stops under 30 mph on the way home , the way I was taught to bed brakes.
If bedding needs to be done on a new vehicle why isn't it in the break in info for the vehicle?
 

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My 2012 SCREW had warped front rotors starting around 40K miles. I just replaced them with a Powerstop Z-36 kit at 51K miles. The whole install took less than 2hrs, including break in. I followed the bed-in instructions to the letter and I couldn't be happier with the results. My truck now stops better than before and the warped rotor shake is gone. All for $254 bucks which included shipping.
 

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I believe that warped rotors are many times caused by tire shops after they remove wheels/tires for whatever reason. If you aren't there to watch them, most of the time they immediately zip the first lug nut in all of the way with the impact gun. You now have uneven torque on the lugs and this leads to warped rotors. I always watch and make them do it right. I always use a torque wrench and torque in multiple stages when I do it at home. I haven't had warped rotors in years. I also just buy new rotors; it's not worth turning them. I used EBC Yellow Stuff pads when I did the brakes on the Avalanche and am sold on them.
 

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New member here but I guess I feel really lucky because I had 74K with stock pads and rotors on my 2012 fx4 and the dealer said there was still some pad left !
(Sorry to bring up a really really old post )
 

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New member here but I guess I feel really lucky because I had 74K with stock pads and rotors on my 2012 fx4 and the dealer said there was still some pad left !
(Sorry to bring up a really really old post )
I am at 73k on my 2014 and also have a ton of pad left. I honestly would not be suprised if I made it to 100k. I do engine brake as much as I can though.
 
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