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:(

Why didn’t you post that last week? Lol.

Oh well. Hopefully someone else can use that info. Simple simple fix. Too late now.

So just out of curiosity how do you set up a new waste gate actuator in a twin turbo setup? I guess just measure the rod length of the seized one? Damn.

Thanks for the info.
Actually, your first post states you had already taken your truck into the dealership. (if that was your first post)

So in all fairness, you'd have had to discover that the actuators are available separately before you took it to Ford?

Still, that really sucks!

By the way, those actuators being sold separately at Full Race has been discussed elsewhere on this forum. So technically, it's old news.

But I wasn't aware that Ford doesn't consider it a separate part to address when the actuator malfunctions.

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Actually, your first post states you had already taken your truck into the dealership. (if that was your first post)

So in all fairness, you'd have had to discover that the actuators are available separately before you took it to Ford?

Still, that really sucks!

By the way, those actuators being sold separately at Full Race has been discussed elsewhere on this forum. So technically, it's old news.

But I wasn't aware that Ford doesn't consider it a separate part to address when the actuator malfunctions.

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Yep, you are correct about that. Shoulda done more research before I bit the bullet. But for sure Ford (dealerships) don’t consider it a serviceable part. We don’t really have any tuning shops up here where I live so I was kinda stuck for a diagnosis. Expensive lesson learned for me for sure.
Thanks for all the info though guys, hopefully someone else reads this and it saves them a couple $Gs. Service manager told me it’s almost always the passenger side wastegate that seizes. It must be due to all the salt on the highways up here in Northern Ontario. Anyway, my drivers side turbo was making all the funny noises (because that wastegate was working properly.)
Good luck,

Rob
 

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:(

Why didn’t you post that last week? Lol.

Oh well. Hopefully someone else can use that info. Simple simple fix. Too late now.

So just out of curiosity how do you set up a new waste gate actuator in a twin turbo setup? I guess just measure the rod length of the seized one? Damn.

Thanks for the info.
I saw that you already took it in, so didn’t think that info would have made much difference.

To set them, you need a pressure/vacuum pump like one from mightyvac.

A good starting point is to loosen off the adjustment
nut on the WG rod. Then you’ll want to turn the nut on the rod (the one on the end of the rod), until it lightly Seats against the WG valve arm. Then with a wrench, make 3 full turns of the nut. This should get you very close to where it should be. Snug up the lock nut and then test with the pressure pump.

You want the valve to “crack” at 3-5psi and be fully open 12-15psi.




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I saw that you already took it in, so didn’t think that info would have made much difference.

To set them, you need a pressure/vacuum pump like one from mightyvac.

A good starting point is to loosen off the adjustment
nut on the WG rod. Then you’ll want to turn the nut on the rod (the one on the end of the rod), until it lightly Seats against the WG valve arm. Then with a wrench, make 3 full turns of the nut. This should get you very close to where it should be. Snug up the lock nut and then test with the pressure pump.

You want the valve to “crack” at 3-5psi and be fully open 12-15psi.
Right on, thanks for all the good info. The next guy can fix it for $120. Excellent.

Rob
 

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It won't make you feel any better, but dealerships err the other way too. They'll perform a very labor intensive repair with substantial disassembly of the motor and only change out a portion of the worn parts because "that's the job".

Only to have the problem quickly reappear and require a repeat of the whole procedure.

I'm describing the "timing chain" repair on these motors and the by-the-book scenario is the opposite of what they did to you.

Fortunately, there are the fellas that discovered what was really needed by researching here. And for just a few more buck$, they got a properly repaired truck.

Knowledge is power

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Do you guys buy that vacuum machine just to check the waste gates? Or is there a way to check them with common tools at home?
 

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Here is what I have. Comes in handy for a few other things too
Thank you Sir, buying it now. So how did you go about testing the WG? Did you attach this pump to a single source and watch for both to open under vacuum? Or did you attach to single line per side? At what pressure do I need them to crack and then to be fully open? Still working on a loss of power and mileage, with some loud groaning going on now, and have never done this before. Dealer's around me aren't interested in helping me diagnose the problem. Thanks again.
 

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Thank you Sir, buying it now. So how did you go about testing the WG? Did you attach this pump to a single source and watch for both to open under vacuum? Or did you attach to single line per side? At what pressure do I need them to crack and then to be fully open? Still working on a loss of power and mileage, with some loud groaning going on now, and have never done this before. Dealer's around me aren't interested in helping me diagnose the problem. Thanks again.
 

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I understand that, so it works under boost, which makes sense. You want the WG open to bleed off boost. But is there a common OEM line you utilized or did you just take it off the WG, and connect an outside one, then pump each one individually?
 

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Hey Pitbull;
I didn’t do this test, unfortunately I took it to the dealership.. but I suspect you will want to test them both together, likely by adding a tee fitting into the vacuum line, so you can pump them both with equal pressure to make sure they both actuate at the same pressures. I’ll let someone who’s actually done the test answer this question better.
Good luck,
Rob
 

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I think I have an idea. I can just T the wastegate fittings with tubing over the engine with a T. Pump it up and watch one, back it down, change sides and watch the other.
 

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I think I have an idea. I can just T the wastegate fittings with tubing over the engine with a T. Pump it up and watch one, back it down, change sides and watch the other.
Put your Pressure pump line directly onto each Wastegate. You want to see the arm start to move or "crack" 3-5psi, be fully open at 12-15psi and should hold 20psi without bleeding off pressure.

There also have been a few folks have the WG solenoid (on the top of the motor for 13/14's.) that has failed.
 

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Put your Pressure pump line directly onto each Wastegate. You want to see the arm start to move or "crack" 3-5psi, be fully open at 12-15psi and should hold 20psi without bleeding off pressure.

There also have been a few folks have the WG solenoid (on the top of the motor for 13/14's.) that has failed.
I think I have 3 of those. The one on top worked fine. I checked it with a 12 volt battery and it clicked over. Also, blew through it and assessed the one way valve worked. There are also 2, one above each turbo that I haven’t checked yet.
 

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Is it normal upon start up, for the truck not to build any boost? Just slowly going through gears on a cold engine doesn’t get past 0.00 PSI. Is that closed loop or is there a leak?
 

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I can drive gently and not register any boost. But gently. Even moderate acceleration will spool a couple of pounds.

(Gen2 though)

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I can drive gently and not register any boost. But gently. Even moderate acceleration will spool a couple of pounds.

(Gen2 though)

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That's what I always thought. By gently, i mean I don't floor it, get to 2000-2500rpm, and am stuck a 0psi. It might be closed loop though. I'm not 100% sure. If not, then I likely have some kind of manifold leak that seals itself up when heated. Or the same for some vacuum line.
 

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That's what I always thought. By gently, i mean I don't floor it, get to 2000-2500rpm, and am stuck a 0psi. It might be closed loop though. I'm not 100% sure. If not, then I likely have some kind of manifold leak that seals itself up when heated. Or the same for some vacuum line.
You may want to start smoke testing or checking you BOV's. It sounds like there is a leak somewhere. I get boost when it's only ran for a minute or so and it's -30 outside.
 

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Remember, the Wastegate actuator works under pressure, not vacuum. I was hunting for a whining noise and have the mityvac shown in the video. You feel pretty dumb pumping vacuum in the wastegate nipple and thinking I’d found my problem, when I should have been pressurizing it. Mine had visible movement at 5psi of pressure and stopped moving at 13or14 psi.
 

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You know what I found out today, when in fist gear, I can wind the motor up to 5000 rpm without getting any boost. It won't get any boost until I get into a higher gear. Is that normal?
 
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