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2013 XLT 302A 145" Screw
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I believe I bought the F-107N for my 2014, but Fumoto doesn't even show that model anymore. They recommend the F-137N for the 2013/2014 now. Should be M12-1.75 but you may want to double check.

Yes the long nipple version is nice for using a hose and draining straight into a jug. Since the plug is installed horizontally on our trucks there won't be any clearance issues.
Thaks alot ! I think I have my Son talked into us teaming up and doing our oil changes ourselves. I want to try 10-30 for summer towing and also to see how it affects the cold start rattle that I am now getting sometimes when warm out and the stealership won’t do it plus I don’t need a record of it. Warranty.
 

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Just did a oil change on the truck last weekend. Decided to use up some Castrol Edge 5w-40 that I still had. Super simple with the remote oil filter and fumoto valve (although the valve takes some time to drain)
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
Just did a oil change on the truck last weekend. Decided to use up some Castrol Edge 5w-40 that I still had. Super simple with the remote oil filter and fumoto valve (although the valve takes some time to drain)
They are slow. But I just open it and go do something else while its draining. Get the filter prefilled with oil or whatever else I gotta do.
 
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The mechanic my Son uses for everything, oil changes or whatever, told him a higher viscosity oil will throw a code. I told him to ask what code it will throw and what sensor sets off the code.
Anyone using 10-30 in the 3.5 Eco ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #125 ·
The mechanic my Son uses for everything, oil changes or whatever, told him a higher viscosity oil will throw a code. I told him to ask what code it will throw and what sensor sets off the code.
Anyone using 10-30 in the 3.5 Eco ?
Not yet, but will be running a Euro 5W-30 which is thicker than the US 30 weight oils.

Also Blown is running 40 weight and one other guy is as well without issue.

Also, that is not a real thing. If you were cold starting your truck in the winter with a 5W oil, that oil will be thicker than a 10W oil in the warmer months. So the truck has no clue whether you have 5W or 10W in there. Once both oils are hot they will be roughly the same viscosity.
 
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I’ve been running a 40w for more than a couple years. No worries or codes.


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2013 XLT 302A 145" Screw
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If we start doing our own changes, I will run 10-30 in summer or tow season and 5-20 otherwise.
How many quarts with empty new filter they hold ?
Anyone know what the Ford stealership 'multi-point inspection' consists of that they supposedly do as part of the service ?
 

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I just changed mine today. 6 qts. To me the oil filter location sucks. But I’m getting better at it as this is the 3rd time I’ve changed it. The dealer did all the previous ones. I’m sticking to the 5w 30 Syn blend.
 

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Been running edge 0w40 (and 5w40 last winter) since 2011 in my 5.4 3valve and 3.5 eco since new in 2017. In Calgary. Year round. -35C to +35C. Any mechanic saying it will throw codes needs his head examined.
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
Hmm, that has me thinking. Maybe I didn’t notice my PP being “thin” because it was a 5w-40 Euro blend.


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Yeah a Euro 5W-40 will be a healthy oil.
 
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This never really caught my eye till now. But the move from SN+ to SP lowered the TBN for many oils. Simply due to the fact additive packages had to be adjusted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #134 · (Edited)
Its almost that time. 200 more miles and the oil is getting changed and trying to decide if I wanna use my PP Euro L now with the colder temperatures, or wait until the spring. I do have 10 quarts of Supertech 10W-30 laying around that was meant for the Lexus, but I put the 10W-30 Mobil1 in it instead. I also have 10 quarts of Supertech 0W-20 for the Lexus which I was thinking of using for the winter but not sure I will get to the OCI before its spring again lol. I think the Lexus may make it 1 year on an OCI since I did the oil in May and have only put 2500 miles on it since then. I do 7500 miles and the oil comes out gold like it did going in. Its wild.

I've also only done 5300 miles in my truck since January 5th. At this rate I am looking at <7500 miles this year.

I think I have issues.
 
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New to the forum. Great info on here guys. Seems like it mostly comes down to personal preference on what type of oil to use, but thought I would see if there are any current opinions.
Rig: 20' 3.5EB with 20k on it. Going into winter and change every 5k which usually rounds 5 months or so. Live in Michigan and we hit some -10f to -20f temps here and there. Not often though. And I do some towing, usually pretty light.

Been debating between Mobil 1 EP and PUP (both with Motorcraft filter). Hangups?
1) PUP apparently is a bit thin, but going into winter months not sure it makes a difference. Is thin bad just because it doesn't coat as well then, or anything related to towing?

2) Mobil 1 EP just doesn't seem to get talked about much on this thread, but a bunch on other threads, any reason for that? Seems to be a popular choice elsewhere (may consider OW-30 based on cooler temps coming)

3) Was not considering Casterol due to chatter on it being pretty thick and not the best choice for colder climates on startup. Other than that though the feedback I see is these turbos love the stuff.

Let the games begin.......
 

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2021 Powerboost Platinum FX4 Kodiak Brown
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Welcome. Seriously. :)
(in case my sense of humor doesn't come through)


Soooooo, AFTER reading this thread (or did I jump to that conclusion prematurely) do you think any of us would edit what we said earlier?

You're going to get more of the same non-definitive all over the board oil advice. But I admit it could be fun.

I didn't go back and see what I might have said earlier, but if I lived where you live and knew I was going to be facing those cold temperatures, I actually would change which oil I currently prefer. But honestly, I don't know for sure what it would be. Probably would stick with Amsoil, which might be a little misleading because I'm no disciple, but I do like the folks I buy it from and I'm sure that the rather large product line would have something I would be happy to pour. Hopefully a 0-30W of some kind with a good additive package for this motor.

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Fun is always what I am going for...

Your comments actually kind of point out why I thought my questions might get some good commentary. I do have some pretty specific conditions regarding the environment I'll be moving in, and some questions regarding WHY certain qualities of oils might not be a good choice in that regard (light vs thick in relation to cold weather and towing).
And based those conditions your typical answer to the "what oil is best" question of the decade did change, and were helpful even! I did forget to mention I drive mostly highway with not a lot of stop and go or quick start ups, I know that has some bearing on best possible solutions.

Its quite possible these things were answered before as well. I admit that, like you, I didnt take the 3 days to read all 134 posts prior to mine in full detail - more of a browse for some keywords.

Hoping there are more that are willing to play! Appreciate your easy going approach to an age old discussion, @snakebitten.
 

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Discussion Starter · #138 ·
New to the forum. Great info on here guys. Seems like it mostly comes down to personal preference on what type of oil to use, but thought I would see if there are any current opinions.
Rig: 20' 3.5EB with 20k on it. Going into winter and change every 5k which usually rounds 5 months or so. Live in Michigan and we hit some -10f to -20f temps here and there. Not often though. And I do some towing, usually pretty light.

Been debating between Mobil 1 EP and PUP (both with Motorcraft filter). Hangups?
1) PUP apparently is a bit thin, but going into winter months not sure it makes a difference. Is thin bad just because it doesn't coat as well then, or anything related to towing?

2) Mobil 1 EP just doesn't seem to get talked about much on this thread, but a bunch on other threads, any reason for that? Seems to be a popular choice elsewhere (may consider OW-30 based on cooler temps coming)

3) Was not considering Casterol due to chatter on it being pretty thick and not the best choice for colder climates on startup. Other than that though the feedback I see is these turbos love the stuff.

Let the games begin.......
Usually M1 EP is expensive and I am a cheapskate. But, they have a very good mail in rebate right now and so I picked up 10 quarts for something like $25 and am running it in my Lexus GX. I would have no issue whatsoever running it in my F150, but I had already purchased other oil for it.

Here is the rebate. $30 back and you can get the 5W-30 M1 EP at walmart for $24.37 per 5 quart jug. So get 2 jugs and get $30 back and you are like $20 for 10 quarts. Thats about the best deal you will find out there for a very solid oil.


Pennzoil may also have a rebate. They did earlier in the year.

I would just go with a 5W-30 for those temperatures. There is no reason to get anything fancy as lighter oils don't have an effect until even lower temps than that. Oil pumps are constant displacement so you will get just as much flow with a 5W as a 0W until you reach the pour point, which is usually something like -45F. Just let the truck warm up before you start driving it and reving.
 

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New to the forum. Great info on here guys. Seems like it mostly comes down to personal preference on what type of oil to use, but thought I would see if there are any current opinions.
Rig: 20' 3.5EB with 20k on it. Going into winter and change every 5k which usually rounds 5 months or so. Live in Michigan and we hit some -10f to -20f temps here and there. Not often though. And I do some towing, usually pretty light.

Been debating between Mobil 1 EP and PUP (both with Motorcraft filter). Hangups?
1) PUP apparently is a bit thin, but going into winter months not sure it makes a difference. Is thin bad just because it doesn't coat as well then, or anything related to towing?

2) Mobil 1 EP just doesn't seem to get talked about much on this thread, but a bunch on other threads, any reason for that? Seems to be a popular choice elsewhere (may consider OW-30 based on cooler temps coming)

3) Was not considering Casterol due to chatter on it being pretty thick and not the best choice for colder climates on startup. Other than that though the feedback I see is these turbos love the stuff.

Let the games begin.......
I use Pennzoil ultra Platinum 5w30w full synthetic and Motorcraft oil filter FL-500S, I do change it about every 3k miles though, 4k max but I never make it that long before changing.



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Usually M1 EP is expensive and I am a cheapskate. But, they have a very good mail in rebate right now and so I picked up 10 quarts for something like $25 and am running it in my Lexus GX. I would have no issue whatsoever running it in my F150, but I had already purchased other oil for it.

Here is the rebate. $30 back and you can get the 5W-30 M1 EP at walmart for $24.37 per 5 quart jug. So get 2 jugs and get $30 back and you are like $20 for 10 quarts. Thats about the best deal you will find out there for a very solid oil.


Pennzoil may also have a rebate. They did earlier in the year.
I better make a decision fast - That rebate ends TODAY! A heck of a rebate though.
 
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