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I went back to the original pcv idle is way smoother tha with the brown one.
 
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Mine idles better with the brown one than it ever has.
That can more so point to if your Original pcv was on it’s last legs. The spring inside may have been extremely worn and stuck closed/open. But since your truck is happy with it, I would let it be.

Because according to MPC(Manufacturer of PCV valves) with hard use, the valve should be replaced every 25,0000 miles.
 
For those running a dual valve, I have some valuable information that will make you think twice. Let me tell you I was surprised as well. Tho I believe I will stay quiet to not stir something up.
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Oh and to those that think I’m spitting lies. I’ll just leave this here....


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What is this picture showing?
 
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What is this picture showing?
Without pushing too many buttons, let’s just say dual valve catch cans provide less than expected evacuation.


The one picture was taken from many provided in the patents. Engineering side shot describing each and every function of the two pcv valves. Those numbers all correspond with Specs written inside the patent providing flow characteristics and CFM. Even goes into full detail how the improved PCV was created with a Venturi effect. Which I thought was pretty neat.
 
Just spill your thoughts about dual valve so I can understand lol.

The picture ou show, makes the one look offset. Both the black and brown are straight down. There is no offset.
 
I had a brown one on my 2.7 but I gutted it with a metal punch. Figured the check valves in-line with my upr dual can system would keep everything going in the right direction. Assuming the check valves would meet flow requirements

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I would definitely not gut the pcv valve with that setup. You will suck up oil. The pcv valve is calibrated to close at a certain vacuum to prevent oil being sucked up. Check valves have no flow restriction compared to an pcv valve.

Full-race setup is the only setup you can gut the pcv valve on.
 
Isn't the upr system always under vacuum though? Both cans are linked to the pre-turbo (cold) side of the intake.

Should I go buy another brown pcv?
 
The PCV is a vacuum metering device. If too much vacuum is put on the crankcase and the valve is removed, you will suck up oil.

It’s best to get one installed when you get the chance. UPR even no longer recommends gutting the pcv valve.

A system that removes the intake manifold connection is the only one suitable for the removal of the pcv valve.
 
Fair enough thanks!

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I do know they rolled out a tsb to 15+ f150s that came with the grey pcv to switch to the Brown pcv valve.

The grey is designed for NA applications and is the incorrect valve. For some reason many f150s came with them from the factory.

KR3Z-6A666-AA is the only valve to be used on 15+ f150 ecoboosts.
 
This is directly from Ford for the grey pcv.

"Five Hundred, Montego. Escape, Mariner. Sable, Taurus. Freestyle. Mustang. Ranger. Ohv. 3.0l. F150. 3.3L. 3.7l. To 10/5/10. 3.5L without turbo. Exc.Heated PCV System. Without cold weather group. Without electric heated pcv. "

I would against installing it as you will pressurize the crankcase with the incorrect pcv valve.
 
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