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How is your 2014 Running?

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Discussion Starter #1
Whats up guys. Back in the day I did all my work on my Mustang GT. That was 10 years ago. Now I mostly make sure my kid doesn't eat stink bugs off the floor. Two quick questions:

1) What are good spark plugs for the eco? I use(d) NGK on my Mustang that worked great. Is there a NGK equivalent for the 2014 ecoboost?
2) How difficult is it do do spark plugs yourself? Like I said, I am mechanically inclined but I am not trying to relive my college years by chasing down parts at 24 hr auto-parts stores...

Thanks guys
 

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1. From what I remember for the 3.5 engine, iridium Motorcraft SP-534 gapped at .028 - .030 is the recommendation. I have a 2.7, so you might want to search the site and see if there's any updates in that regard.
2. Spark plugs are pretty easy on these trucks, remove the engine cover, GENTLY pull back the clips on the coils, and it's pretty straightforward. Ford Techmakuloco has an excellent tutorial on YouTube and is a trusted source for how-tos.
 

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Dont think there is an SP 534 anymore. Ford performance er something. They're SP-580's now. Do them yourself. Half hour job. And don't mess with those coil clips. Pop the coil out and lay it off to the side. If those clips break, you may be opening another can of worms.
 

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2014 3.5 EB,
NGK 6509 Iridium IX, stock replacement
NGK 6510 Iridium IX, 1 strep colder for tuned motor
Gaped at .028-.030

I personally use 6510's at .026 in my tuned 2017 2.7 EB. Have been last 10000 miles runs very good and idles better than the stock plugs did.
 

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Its recommended to replace the coil boots when doing plugs also. Make sure to get genuine Motorcraft boots. I've ran stock Motorcraft, NGK, and Ford Performance plugs on my 2014 and all have worked well. I'm tuned and spraying meth, so I have 1-step colder plugs at .028 currently. The Ford Performance ones were recommended over the NGK's because they come with a tighter gap, so they are less likely to open up (for example, the FP ones come at .031" while the NGK's come at .05x" something, I could be off a little, but you get the point)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks for the feedback guys. and thanks for the video sterotypeone; everything looks easy enough to get to. Ill check the health of my COPs to see if they need to be replaced... I am not sure they are spent after only 100k miles. If the spark plugs come out and they arnt black as **** I will consider changing them then hah.

Codycat91, butthead, do you guys tow with your setups? My F150 is my DD with its main use being to pull a 28' travel trailer for the family (2.5k miles last year towing). HOWEVER, my Mustang GT is a 04 with a Vortech V1 T-Trim supercharger, cammed, the whole 9 yards. I would love to get some more power out of the truck but I am not wanting to sacrifice any tow capacity for the sake of our hobby. Any thoughts? My Youtube Channel for the Mustang (2004 Mustang GT supercharged with cams)

Thanks guys.
 

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Get a tune. Dollar for dollar the best bang for your buck.
 

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I don't tow. But we're not saying to change your COP's (although it's a good idea anyway around 100k) but change the boots that attach to the bottom of your COP's.
 

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thanks for the feedback guys. and thanks for the video sterotypeone; everything looks easy enough to get to. Ill check the health of my COPs to see if they need to be replaced... I am not sure they are spent after only 100k miles. If the spark plugs come out and they arnt black as **** I will consider changing them then hah.

Codycat91, butthead, do you guys tow with your setups? My F150 is my DD with its main use being to pull a 28' travel trailer for the family (2.5k miles last year towing). HOWEVER, my Mustang GT is a 04 with a Vortech V1 T-Trim supercharger, cammed, the whole 9 yards. I would love to get some more power out of the truck but I am not wanting to sacrifice any tow capacity for the sake of our hobby. Any thoughts? My Youtube Channel for the Mustang (2004 Mustang GT supercharged with cams)

Thanks guys.
I do not even have a hitch on my truck. It's my personal transportation and camping (hiking, backpacker, lightweight tent, fish and hunt), don't think I've gone past 700 pounds load in bed), fun vehicle.
That said if I did tow I'd list the f150 line as 3.5 EB best and close to a diesel far as torque production, 2.7 EB only because it's not available in models equipped for heavy towing/loads, and then the 5.0 due to needing RPM's to produce torque. With a bit of care the coils and associated terminal parts are sturdy enough and reassembly with a bit of well placed dielectric grease with keep them in shape. The boots on mine were not even discolored after the first 20000 miles. I also re-gap new plugs to my own use. Proper tool and care in gapping will not harm a fine rare metal electrode,. The so called pre-gaped plugs I feel are marketed to keep lazy ham fisted mechanics from causing damage. I do use BCB for tuning and they supply a towing/hauling tune "Mcguyver" and street performance "Highlander" tunes with the tuner/interface's they supply.
The only problem I have changing plugs is the rear-most passenger pug. It's under a pipe for the cooling system and a but section of wire-loom that is 3/4 inch thick on my 2.7. My bribe my 8 year old grandson to wriggle his little paws for the next plug swap!
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It's certainly not a difficult job. KM
 

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Yeah, for that back pass plug I just have to put the socket and extension in the hole first, then attach the rachet to it. No big deal. I highly recommend MPT for tunes. They also have a tow/haul tune. I check and gap all my plugs also
 

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4,000 miles on NGK ruthenium's PSPE gapped at 0.035" and nary a miss. 98K on the boots and coils. Motorcrafts at 30,000 miles always increased in gap from 0.030 to 0.032-0.035. We will see what the NGK 's do. Oh and why did I put in the NGK's? 'Cause I could and I'm curious.
 

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thanks for the feedback guys. and thanks for the video sterotypeone; everything looks easy enough to get to. Ill check the health of my COPs to see if they need to be replaced... I am not sure they are spent after only 100k miles. If the spark plugs come out and they arnt black as **** I will consider changing them then hah.
My truck doesn't even have 80k miles on it. 3 bad coils so far. Don't go by what you think on any other car with these.

EDIT: For the tune, I vote BCB. But only because I dont want to be tied to any specific octane gas, or be flashing tunes at the pump because I travel, and no 93 octane. Pulls more than I need it to, good daily driver tune.
 

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There are multi-octane tunes available from most tuners these days. They leverage the oem code for adjusting to octane.

I've ran one as my primary tune for nearly 2 years, although I rarely use anything but 93

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Does anybody have any links to advanced or autozone for the correct NGK plug? I cannot find any of the direct referenced above (that at least say they are a match OR something you can actually purchase .... covid issue?) I would also be curious if I can pick up the ford performance or motorcraft from anywhere as well.

Thanks. Have about 100k on the truck, bought it new in '14.
 

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90495 for the NGK ruthenium's Rock auto $8.03 each. 94372 for NGK platinum $3.56 each at Rock auto.
 

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Autozone

Really need to look and compare, some part suppliers don't even list all the available engines, and often list a plug as "does not fit"
Autozone 90495 list this as not fitting but other suppliers do. You also need to specify what version of NGK as they supply 5 different types with different material construction. miniceptor listed Ruthenium I listed Iridium IX, same plug with different materials in the electrodes. There are also part #'s and different stock #'s. Then you get into heat ranges!
Have fun wading thru the varieties, lots of choices. KM
 

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I went with what Rock auto had listed. They fit, almost 4K miles and no complaints, about three of that with the travel trailer behind.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
damn I hate having options. Thanks for the help guys. Will probably go with the NGK and a fresh set of COPs to be safe .... ill give you an update once I settle on something.
 

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When you in the store look for a gap tool Wright Tool Wire Gap or Spark Plug Tool often the ground strap electrode has a pit/divot that cannot be measured with a flat gauge. Be gentle adjusting the ground electrode, the center electrode tips are quite fragile. KM
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Whats up guys... just wanted to give a quick update for anybody who might find this in a archive one day. I went with the NGK plugs part # 94374; I gaped them around 0.030". I did NOT change out the COP's as none seemed to show any age (and after test driving had no issues). The hardest part of the entire process as getting the COP's out off the damn plugs. Ended up using the nail removing side of a HAMMER. There are nail puller tools/etc. but its hard to find leverage on some of the COP's. Other than that it was a super simple job. Good luck! Picture of 3 of the 6 plugs. the other 3 looked even worse.
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