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No sir. But here's what has happened since changing the plugs 9/22. Ran from 9/22 to 10/1 without issue. This included a 6 hour drive from east TX to the hill country on Friday night. On the return trip home on Sunday, the first 45 mins were uneventful. In the 30 mins following, the truck went into this "limp" mode 4 different times - always in 6th gear. Same fix every time - coast to a safe spot to pull over, stop the truck, put it in park (running rough as heck), turn it off, turn it back on and go. I disabled 6th gear. Cruising at 70 seemed fine in 5th gear until I hit a steep grade in cruise control - when it downshifted to 4th gear it went into limp mode again. All of this happened in a 30 mile span. So my next run at this I disabled 6th gear again and didn't use cruise control and made it home fine. It did finally throw some sort of code I assume because a check engine light came on and stayed on. It's at the shop now. Will advise.
 

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No sir. But here's what has happened since changing the plugs 9/22. Ran from 9/22 to 10/1 without issue. This included a 6 hour drive from east TX to the hill country on Friday night. On the return trip home on Sunday, the first 45 mins were uneventful. In the 30 mins following, the truck went into this "limp" mode 4 different times - always in 6th gear. Same fix every time - coast to a safe spot to pull over, stop the truck, put it in park (running rough as heck), turn it off, turn it back on and go. I disabled 6th gear. Cruising at 70 seemed fine in 5th gear until I hit a steep grade in cruise control - when it downshifted to 4th gear it went into limp mode again. All of this happened in a 30 mile span. So my next run at this I disabled 6th gear again and didn't use cruise control and made it home fine. It did finally throw some sort of code I assume because a check engine light came on and stayed on. It's at the shop now. Will advise.
Shop has come back now to say that the check engine light is a result of the throttle body and gasket being bad. Would that have an impact on the "limp" mode i'm experiencing?
 

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Shop has come back now to say that the check engine light is a result of the throttle body and gasket being bad. Would that have an impact on the "limp" mode i'm experiencing?
Absolutely yes.
 

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So do I still need to drill the 1/16" hole in the CAC?
That's completely up to you. My recommendation would be to pull the CAC first and inspect it for any oily/watery collection. If none, then reinstall it. If there is some, then either clean it out real good and reinstall it or drill the hole. Having the hole can't do any harm, however, there are plenty of people who don't believe in drilling a hole and have never needed to.
 

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My 2016 truck puts up a wrench on cold starts by remote in the mornings. No running issues though. If I don't use the remote start feature it doesn't do it... Only happens after an overnight sit in cold weather. Never does it in warm temperatures. Any ideas?

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No dtc codes / no goofy sounds (slapping or otherwise) at cold start. Guess is a trip to dealer after Christmas holidays are over.

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I tried looking for a thread here about the hole needed but found none. Do you have any photos or any instructions on where this hole should be done on the CAC?

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Driver side, lowest corner of the intercooler:
 

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So do I still need to drill the 1/16" hole in the CAC?
I don't have any Weep Hole and never had any such problem in the 3 years I have owned my truck

I DO have a Catch Can.
 

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I should add that I have never liked the idea of introducing a LEAK to the turbo system. I want ALL the boost I can get without taxing my turbos harder to compensate for the boost lost due to drilling a hole in the Intercooler.

If I was buying a used truck and saw that, I would NOT buy the truck.

Just get a good Catch Can instead. I installed one months after I bought my truck and never had any of problem with condensation or crap in my Intercooler.
 

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Are you aware that catch can has absolutely nothing to do with whether your intercooler produces condensate?

this is pure physics - your intercooler is in charge of taking hot air and making it very cool. With this, the byproduct is moisture. The Ford unit cools enough to actually have condensate puddle in the intercooler. Under hard acceleration, that blows out spark for a misfire(s). The small 1/16" hole doesn't provide any measurable loss of air, but allows the water to go outside rather than blow out spark. I am at a loss with why you would not want this free insurance to make sure the truck is misfire-proof.
 

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It's kind of like gonorrhea, huh? You think you've gotten rid of the problem a few times only for it to keep coming back with no explanation as to how or why??????
 

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Elkhart, the major source of the "condensate" is the vapors drawn in from the driver's side head to the driver's side turbo. THAT is what a catch can stops.

I installed a Catch Can pretty much from DAY ONE when I bought my truck and when I swapped my Stock Intercooler for my Wagner, I had NOTHING inside my Stock Intercooler and I live in a very cold climate where condensation is a much bigger issue.

Last summer I double checked my Wagner and had NOTHING inside.

I have NO WEEP HOLE (and never will) ... I live in cold climate where condensation in winter is much more pronounced ... yet I have NO condensation issues (and never will).

Drill a weep hole and have a boost leak if you want. But a good Catch Can will solve the problem (plus the build up on your intake valves ... that a Weep hole does nothing for).
 

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The catch can is is for oil / pcv vapors. That doesn't blow out spark- never causes misfire.

condensate is produced in the intercooler.... even Ford admits this. The only way to get rid of it is the weep hole.

Grim reaper never sees it because it is passing through spark... and its not enough to blow out. In time, there will be a condensate misfire. Why chance it? Why would you want to accelerate one day and experience this misfire? Not worth the risk. The weep hole has been done by the majority for years and absolutely no issues reported.
 
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