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Discussion Starter #1
Im kicking around buying an XDI pump. Do the XDI pumps from the newer trucks, 2017+ for example fit?

Also there's a lot of conflicting information floating around with what can be done with the 35 fuel pump and 60. Some say you can run 30, other say they still dont have the needed capacity for ethanol.

With stock turbos, how far can you push the rwhp on 35 pump? I would like to get 450 whp eventually, but i dont think that's possible on stock turbos anyways. So I'm assuming turbos in the later future. I just know my truck is fuel limited on the hit at this point even with stock turbos.

Im always looking for a deal, hence I want to know what my options are for fitment on a good used pump.

Thanks
 

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It is only going to help if you are bringing in boost fast and see a fuel dip at lower rpm. THis can be fixed with tuning to control it on stock pump. Everywhere else, the stock pump is fine.

The main thing the pump will exceeded at over stock, is if wanting to run ethanol.

IF you don't want to run E, then it is not needed.

I have the 60% on stock fuel system. Starting now, I will start testing E mixture. I will see if full e85 is capable. I havent seen anyone else run 60% really, and not on stock fuel system.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So turbos are a better big investment for more power?
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Yes.
 

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The 2011 - 2012 has itty bitty turbos. They increased the size in 2013 and held until 2016. Then I believe the 2017's got a small bump over the 2016 and now the 2018+ are huge.

According to the tune for 2012, the stock turbos overspeed at ~20 lbs/min of air flow each, 40 lbs total. A 2013+ truck can flow 23 lbs/min of air each, 46 lbs total. The 2018's are good for 61 lbs/min. All these numbers assume sea level.

So my truck can theoretically do 46 lb/min at sea level. I live at 6500' which has almost exactly 80% the pressure of sea level. My turbos max out right a 37-38 lb/min here which also just happens to be 80% of 46 lbs. So you can see that if you have any kind of elevation its work against your total flow capacity as well.
 

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Didn't someone figure out how to put 18+ turbos on a Gen1?

That's a worthy approach, no?

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Didn't someone figure out how to put 18+ turbos on a Gen1?

That's a worthy approach, no?

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I can't remember, but didn't Blown have to use the Gen 1 turbine housings? That is part of the improvement of the 2018+ is that I believe they not only have a larger compressor but a higher A/R turbine housing as well, which will flow better up top.

Not saying its bad way to go but you do have to convert the water lines and adapt the vacuum wastegate actuators.
 

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The 2011 - 2012 has itty bitty turbos. They increased the size in 2013 and held until 2016. Then I believe the 2017's got a small bump over the 2016 and now the 2018+ are huge.

According to the tune for 2012, the stock turbos overspeed at ~20 lbs/min of air flow each, 40 lbs total. A 2013+ truck can flow 23 lbs/min of air each, 46 lbs total. The 2018's are good for 61 lbs/min. All these numbers assume sea level.

So my truck can theoretically do 46 lb/min at sea level. I live at 6500' which has almost exactly 80% the pressure of sea level. My turbos max out right a 37-38 lb/min here which also just happens to be 80% of 46 lbs. So you can see that if you have any kind of elevation its work against your total flow capacity as well.
From an old CRP post....

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Discussion Starter #10
Im assuming aftermarket is my only route. I have have the vacuum operated wastegate.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Im sitting at around 900'. I have seen it spike above 40lb/min, but usually holds around 36/37 lbs a min at WOT.
 

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Im assuming aftermarket is my only route. I have have the vacuum operated wastegate.
You can make the 2018+ OEM turbos work, it's been done, but not sure if its worth the effort when you could just get the CRP 42's or GT's.
 
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Here is my $0.02 on the subject. Get a set of GT's or the bigger CRP's.
There are some nice benefits of making Gen2 turbo's work (bigger housings, Bigger coolant and Oil lines, etc), but it is a lot of work and even harder with the motor in the truck. They were the biggest stock location option at the time, so I have no regrets with the path I chose and a huge thanks to @RMB_Ryan for figuring lots of this out.
If anyone wants to venture down the Gen2 turbo path, you need:
Gen 2 turbos
Gen 1 Turbine housings
Gen 2 oil lines
Gen 2 Coolant lines (Turbo side)
AN Lines, fittings and adapters (coolant lines on the block side for both inlet and outlet.
Custom Vacuum Wastegate mounts (can be had from Full Race)
TurboSmart Wastgates with pivoting rod (can be had from Full Race)
Good working knowledge of setting up, clocking and testing turbos and wastegates.

169198





We have been playing around quite a bit and pushing the boost to see what happens. I've hit 64.8#/Min with them and that's pushing them WAY to hard. I would say on my set up, they are happy and fine around 57-59#/min.

@mass-hole I only did a visual, but I didn't see much in the way of differences on the turbine side. The runner, inlet and housing size all looked pretty much identical. I'm running pretty close to the same airflow for a given boost as tru Gen 2 folks, HOWEVER I don't know how accurate the VE calculations are in my tune, I have ported head as well.
 

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What would be the advantage to upgrading to HPFP versus the in-tank pump? When would both be a good idea plus injectors?
 

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What if someone were going to upgrade from a 26gal to the 36 gal anyway... is it prudent to drop in the walbro while the tank is out?
 

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What would be the advantage to upgrading to HPFP versus the in-tank pump? When would both be a good idea plus injectors?
The HPFP is limited a low RPM/High torque since it is mechanical and driven directly by the cam shaft. This is not where they LPFP would have an issue since it is electric and can run at full power at any engine RPM. If your LPFP were weak, you would see it at high rpm.
 
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@Burns363R you have to think what your goal is. First I would say do not do gen 2 custom. Second, if you think your truck is going to be fast, it's not. It will be a little quicker. IF you're ok with that, go for it. If you are going to sell it soon, do not do it. If you plan on keeping it, wait till a turbo leaks then upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I would probably look at the GT's or CRP turbos if that was the next move. At this point im board with it and want more. Like any good hotroder. I use the truck alot for towing, which it does effortlessly. Again, just trying to figure out what my next mod is, i understand they never make financial sense, but thats not why we do it right. I have already had the turbos off a couple times, so its not that big of a deal to me.

Main goal is push the truck down into the low 13's. Its not a drag truck or anything, just something fun to drive.
 

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After recently doing both the xdi35 and GT’s if I had to pick one over the other I’d definitely of picked the turbos! In your case I’d start there like everyone else has suggested, if you’re still wanting more then maybe try the pump and start running some ethanol
 
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