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2013 Ecoboost 97k, carbon tracking, long term fuel trims, 02 sensors, questions.. :)

13K views 19 replies 8 participants last post by  DNA Dan  
#1 ·
As the title states, I'm chasing a few small issues the previous owner didn't bother to fix.



I bought this truck with 97k miles on it, I heat soaked it on the test drive, and during a medium speed, high load circumstance, I got a misfire, derate and check engine light. Checked with my tablet and bluetooth scanner and code was misfire cyl #5. Took a $4k discount on the price of the truck and took it home and was pleased to see my answer.



They all looked about the same... gap opened up to .42ish on average. But when I pulled #5 I found my misfire.



Now after I left the battery disconnected for about 10 min, I let her warm up, took it for a drive, let it sit over night, then drove it to work and back and a few other errands to let it learn itself. The other night I was looking at my 'tool' and noticed my LTFT on bank 1 was maxed out at -%10. I wonder how long "long term" is stored, and if that should have been cleared when I disconnected the battery, or am I having other issues still on that side. (I'm assuming 4,5,6 is bank 1?).



I could tell the last time I drove it, it seemed like it figured something out, because it got a little faster at spooling up and taking off like it got kicked in the pants.. :)



It seems its getting better, but I would like to see both sides of the motor acting the same. Could this be a vac leak perhaps on that side? Loose exhaust? Or could this be from condensation from the CAC getting into the head on 'that side' and its cleaning itself out with my application of the skinny pedal on the highway? :)

Or is 100k prime time for new o2s even tho I don't have any codes just yet? I'm going to fill up again with some 93 and two bottles of techron to perhaps clean up a dirty injector, but beyond that, I am here to listen and gain some wisdom on these motors, as I feel I'll have this truck for a long time.

Thanks!
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Check the COP (coil packs) too to rule out any problems with those. As for O2 sensors, those aren't really known to be problematic or going out prematurely but they're not terribly expensive either so it might be worth it to change them out.
They appeared ok when I changed the plugs. My guess by looking at the rubber was the seals on top of the VC and the Boots on the ends were changed because they looked too soft and nice for 97k miles. I noticed a little oil seeping starting from the rear of the vc when I was under the truck, but nothing to be too worried about just yet. I'd imagine a little snug on the vc might "fix" that, but would that be enough to throw off that LTFT? I really don't have a clue. I have an old school SHO, not "hip" to the EcoBoost's just yet. The Yamaha is a lot simpler in theory and application. :)
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Bank 1 is pass side (1,2,3), however in the past I've had vehicles that when scanned would show opposite banks on the display.
Your short term looks OK, so it may need time to adapt for the long term.

If you look into getting Forscan with extended license (FREE), you can reset adaptations, or look into doing a KAM reset.


Well I have a OBDLink MX that appears to be supported, but it looks like you can only do those resets with an actual PC and not a phone's lite version of the software? Which is ok, I have a bluetooth computer in the garage for such things, but I'm not sure just yet as I have to wait for my account to be validated on Forscan's site so I can upgrade the licensing and all that. But I also wonder about when I get a tuner, if that is something that can be achieved through the Livewire TS?
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Well tomorrow is my first day off work this week, and I have Forscan setup on my phone and the computer here in my garage. I filled the truck up with some 93 octane, changed the oil, cleaned the MAP sensors, and have been driving the truck as I normally would. 20 miles to work one way, 95% highway, and I make sure it sees a WOT or two just so it can see what it needs to see. In that time my LTFT's have come down somewhat on that Bank 1 side, but they are still pretty negative. I have noticed the numbers jump around a little on the second sensor bank 1, which I assume is the one past the cat. And what effect do the first sensors have versus the second ones? I thought the second sensors were more emmissions based, and it almost makes me think I need to look at the EVAP system or something. Ugh!

Another few questions I pondered at work the past few nights.... Why 3 MAP sensors? Does the computer look for variations? Does it look at them all for losses, or a redundancy type of thing? Or does it use one for one task, and another for another? I would imagine the one controlling timing and spark curves would be the oily one on top of the motor? :)

And another, If I have a -% trim, which would be due to un-burnt fuel, perhaps a leaky injector / failing coil or whatever... does the computer trim all 3 injectors on that side, and if so... if there a way to run the engine, while watching the STFT's and trim one injector at a time to look for the one that doesn't 'dip' like the others and narrow down if it was one cylinder vs another? The old ODB1 on my SHO has a cylinder balance test that can somewhat operate in that sort of way to see if one is a little weaker than the others, looking for a difference in RPM when it drops spark off one cylinder at a time.

I guess I'm just being a little anal, but this is my first boosted anything for all the stories I've heard over the years. :) I'm just glad I'm running a little rich and not a little lean. All things aside, I am getting good mileage out of her so far.

I work in industrial automation / controls, for me it either work right, or it doesn't, and this is one of those things I will NEED to figure out, or it will drive me banana's.

Sorry for rambling, these are the things I think about at work in the middle of the night. LoL
 
Discussion starter · #16 · (Edited)
I was also wondering if I might get lucky and this be a leaky PCV valve perhaps? Or is a -%15 correction a bigger issue? Everything I seem to research points towards a leaky injector. And beyond that, most LTFT issues are lean and due to vac leaks. :( There is a PCM update from Ford, but everything I read about that says it usually hurts your mileage so I'm not sure I want to go that route. lol
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Well I changed my air filter so I know she can breath as well as get spark now, and after my truck was nice and toasty from an hour of driving, I reset all learned values, let it idle for about 10 min, then went for a 20 min drive, and turned it off, started it up again and went for another 10 min or so.

From watching the short term trims, nothing is really + or - 4 % at most, except when I am coasting or off the gas. Uphill under load / part throttle, nearly 0% trim. So when it's doing what it should be doing it looks pretty good so far, but when I let my foot off and it goes into vac, I see that one side running rich again. So much so that that "part" of my driving habits, the computer has already learned and stored that into the LT data. Nothing else has really populated yet, and I assume it will take a few more restart / warm up / drive events before it does that.

All that being said, I wonder if I might have a leak right at the turbo heading to the cat on that side. I say that as I keep thinking I'm hearing valvetrain noise, but perhaps that little tick is a tiny exhaust leak there, letting air in when I'm off the gas and showing 02 of that sensor? Just a thought. I could be wrong, and probably am. :)
 
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