Full-Race 2011-2016 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost Twin Turbo Install Kit
Simplify your F-150 EcoBoost turbo installation with the Full-Race Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost Twin Turbo Install Kit. This kit provides all necessary components for a hassle-free installation, including gaskets, seals, and hardware, ensuring a perfect fit and adherence to manufacturer standards.
www.full-race.com
The job royally stinks but it was better than paying the dealer $6500 to replace the same poor design coolant pipes that will leak again. This job is not for the faint of heart; I’m a skinny guy with a lot of dexterity and my patience was being tested. I was overwhelmed going into it (even with an extensive mechanical background) but once you get into it, you realize it’s not that bad, just a pain. I called 4-5 shops before committing to the job and none of them would touch it.
Ecoboost turbo coolant line experience for a 2016 Transit 250:
Parts:
-I needed an extended AN fitting (2”?) for the driver side rear of the engine. There are some hoses in the way that won’t allow for the short fitting in the kit to work.
-The turbo adapters don’t apply to the transit; there is one on the passenger side but the driver side turbo bolts directly to the exhaust using a metal gasket. The stock flange and metal exhaust gasket should be supplied in the kit for a transit.
-You also don’t need the A/C belt. My van had a tensioner that easily allowed me to remove and reinstall the A/C belt.
-I felt that if there shorter 2 hoses were about ¼” shorter, they would have been much easier to install. I had to fight them quite a bit to line up and it seemed that it was because they were just a little too long. On the otherhand, I think the driver side long hose could have been ½” to a full inch longer. This might have been because of the extended fitting I used. This was just my experience and obviously someone would need to try it out to see if this is actually the case
Tools: I didn’t need a stubby 19 or 21 but did need to chop down an 11/16 to tighten the hoses at the block and turbo
Workflow recommendations: Lift the vehicle and put on jack stands. Take wheels off and make sure you have enough room to roll underneath with a creeper. We do not have the luxury of going in through the wheel well like the f150s. Have a step ladder and some other high table to work off of. Having a cushioned fender cover makes the job slightly more tolerable. Everyone complains about the fittings on the back of the engine and I thought that was the easiest part of the job. Take the time to move the electrical box out of your way on the driver side.
I would recommend a transit owner to be prepared to remove the turbos. You can’t access the engine through the wheel well like in the f150 so accessing the rear turbo fittings is nearly impossible. I am sure someone could do it but it is way easier to just remove the turbos. The caveat to that is to be prepared to replace the exhaust manifold. I broke the turbo to manifold bolts on one side and the manifold was only 2 years old and I live in the dry SW. I know it’s a huge gamble but once you have the turbo off, replacing the manifold is only another hour of work unless you break some studs. Luckily my studs came right out. I only had to replace the passenger side manifold.
I recommend doing one side at a time as it makes more sense that way. I think the instruction PDF would be easier to follow if it followed one side at a time.
Other Notes: Cover open intake pipes so you don’t drop anything in there
Remove washer fill neck and attaching bracket, your arm will thank you.
Chop the coolant pipe going to the back of the engine at the turbo and don’t even mess with the jiffy tite fittings: way faster and less frustrating!
You don’t need to take the jiffy tite off the block, once you pull the turbo off, it will just come right out
Need driver side metal turbo to exhaust gasket
The banjo fitting goes on top of the turbo
Install the short turbo coolant hose before tightening the turbo back to the manifold. I got one bolt started, attached the hose, then got the rest of the bolts started. Get all your bolts (exhaust and drain line) started before tightening everything down
Double check tightening all the fittings. I forgot about the extra 90 degree fitting on the passenger side and it bit me in the rear when I filled the system with coolant
You will need to remove the alternator to replace driver side oil screen. I opted not to do this. Most people I’ve seen online have clean screens at 150k. I think if you change your oil regularly, you probably don’t need to worry. If you aren’t in a rush, then yeah it’s a no brainer to change it while you are there.
Fill system with gallon of distilled first to check for leaks
