[2016XLT4x4]

If you buy a used engine, keep the original core and have it rebuilt as time allows. Then you will have an engine ready to go in the future. This will ensure that the used engine will never break and last forever.

 

[snakebitten]

True dat!
I have both a spare Gen2 RMB longblock and a 2.7 Jake Raby Porsche flat6 motor.

I don't even have a Gen2 F150 for the RMB motor, and I bet the Porsche won't blow up either? Lol

 

[QuigsFx4]

Lol. I like that idea of hedging my bet on a new motor with a spare on the side.

 

[RuggedGoods]

Plus you could do the rebuild yourself at home, in baby steps as time allows. Would be a real fun project, providing you have spare garage space and decent tools.

 

[Rdrunner-Mike]

At 220,000 miles and low compression in at least one cylinder, the engine is going to need a complete refresh. It is equally probable the no little cylinder pressure in one of the cylinders is due to worn out valves and or valve seats. This would lead me to believe you need a complete engine rebuild. Given the number of miles and issues I would recommend a long block from a reputable supplier; or do a complete removal and rebuild yourself if you have the skills. Otherwise consider a reputable shop that can do a rebuild of the original motor.

 

[QuigsFx4]

Thank you for the info Mike. I would prefer to get a new/rebuilt long block rather than a used engine. Any idea on the cost difference between the two. I realize that everything needs to be transferred from the old engine to the long block in that process.

 

[QuigsFx4]

I am somewhat mechanically inclined but have a black thumb when It comes to cars.

 

[Rdrunner-Mike]

I am somewhat mechanically inclined but have a black thumb when It comes to cars.

The cost difference will depend upon how much wear there is on the original motor. At 220K miles I would anticipate the crank and block to require machining to bring everything back to factory tolerances. That would like mean griding the crank journals, boring the cylinders requiring over-sized pistons/rings and oversized crank bearings to match. I would also expect the heads would need fairly extensive work (guides, all new valves, valve seats and springs). The cams and cam followers etc will need to be carefully checked for wear too. That covers the motor...then you will need to check the turbos. You may need to have the bearings and seals replaced.

Whatever your decision is I wish the best of luck.

Mike

 

[QuigsFx4]

Thanks Mike, I appreciate your input.

 

[Rdrunner-Mike]

The cost difference will depend upon how much wear there is on the original motor. At 220K miles I would anticipate the crank and block to require machining to bring everything back to factory tolerances. That would like mean griding the crank journals, boring the cylinders requiring over-sized pistons/rings and oversized crank bearings to match. I would also expect the heads would need fairly extensive work (guides, all new valves, valve seats and springs). The cams and cam followers etc will need to be carefully checked for wear too. That covers the motor...then you will need to check the turbos. You may need to have the bearings and seals replaced.

Whatever your decision is I wish the best of luck.

Mike

Oh...I just read your original post I noted you had the turbos replaced. Hopefully you can reuse them with the refreshed or new motor.
Again good luck.

Mike

 

[RuggedGoods]

The cost difference will depend upon how much wear there is on the original motor. At 220K miles I would anticipate the crank and block to require machining to bring everything back to factory tolerances. That would like mean griding the crank journals, boring the cylinders requiring over-sized pistons/rings and oversized crank bearings to match. I would also expect the heads would need fairly extensive work (guides, all new valves, valve seats and springs). The cams and cam followers etc will need to be carefully checked for wear too. That covers the motor...

Good list. The idea of coordinating all of that precise inspection, machining and dis/reassembly work, and paying for all of it, always feels pretty daunting to me. And I work daily in a engine dynamometer test lab where we do exactly this kind of work, every day. We're pretty darn good at it, since we have to be... but it's still pretty easy to get just one aspect or component slightly wrong, and scrap the motor or at least have to do it all over again.

I get that putting in a used, high-mileage motor would be a big gamble also. But that's why my thought was to look for a t-boned f150 with under 100k miles. There's literally dozens near me available.

 

[Boatwaco]

I get that putting in a used, high-mileage motor would be a big gamble also. But that's why my thought was to look for a t-boned f150 with under 100k miles. There's literally dozens near me available.

As an aside - we need to pool resources and start buying used EB engines for resale. 💲💲

 

[Justinjs]

As an aside - we need to pool resources and start buying used EB engines for resale. 💲💲

F150ecoboost engine supplier.

See, we buy all the used EB, rebuild, charge what we want (since we'd control the supply), profit, retire in Maui.