[Gord0]

They may be, but not sure. That's why I said I wasn't sure if my list from above would work. I know it's for sure different in a 2017.

 

[par5ntoo]

Thanks for the replies!!....I was digging deeper and looking at the kits that BD sells for installing turbos and the date range is 2011 - 2016 and that kit includes coolant fittings so I'm edumacating guessing that the sizes for the 2013 will apply up to 2016.....thanks again for the assist!!!

 

[MattyLite]

Hey @Gord0, I have a 2013 boost like you did, I had a leak on passenger side block jiffy fitting, so I went with your AN hose build list (awesome write up, by the way). I had to modify my hose lengths a little bit, but not much (line going to back of head is lower than fitting as to keep from forming a potential air pocket, but the line from block to turbo may be 3/8 to 1/2 inch long). I got the hoses in, turbo mounted back up, filled back up with orange concentrate. I tried purging air, but I knew I didn't get it all when it got really warm on my initial test drive. It seemed to burp most of the air out on that drive, but I knew something still wasn't the same as before.

Before this modification, I installed an SPD 170F thermostat, and got 5* to write me a tune to activate high speed fans at 190F, which helped a lot towing, and I rarely heard the high speed fans driving unloaded.

Now, high speed fans come on almost any time I get into the boost, and it seems like it takes forever for the ECTs to come down out of the 190s at idle after driving. I pulled a boat through typical SC terrain, high speed fans were rolling, but didn't overheat at all.

My question is, is it possible that i have a flow restriction with that 6an hose from block to turbo with it being longer and not a complete straight shot, or should I start by doing something simple, like flushing coolant and/or thermostat?

 

[Gord0]

I would start with going back to stock tune for a little bit to see how it runs like that. I'd also be changing back to the stock 187° stat and have the fan temp bumped higher. My old truck wanted to run 190 with a 170 stat. I had an external oil cooler, Saudi raptor trans cooler, mishimoto rad. Unloaded, it would run 185-195 down the freeway, but on a long coast in cold weather it would drop below 160, which kicks on fuel enrichment mode. I put the 187 in there (new style with plastic) and it ran 180-195 down the freeway, and drop to 180 on a coast.

If anything, you might be flowing more coolant through there since the lines are larger id. That would dump more hot water from the turbos right at the temp sensor, making it think it's hotter. You may have been right at the limit with the old lines and now you're just over.

 

[MattyLite]

Ten four, I thought that may have been the case too, dropping more hot coolant in this tiny radiator Ford put in it and it can't handle it. I have the saudi trans cooler like yours had, and I have a 25 row mish external engine oil cooler but still running stock cooler. So what I am seeing isn't that unreasonable?

I'll go ahead and order that stock stat and get the old tune pre fan temp mod loaded up and see. Thanks for your help, and I hate your 13 got totaled, it was a heck of a rig.

 

[Gord0]

Nope, what you're seeing isn't unreasonable at all. I had the same oil cooler and it was thermostatically controlled as well. The stat that comes in there is a 187. Your stat in the trans is a 190. Everything in there is trying to run it at 190 except your rad stat. I saw big temp swings with the 170 stat, and everything acted normal with the stock 187. When you're towing and everything has equalized, no matter what you run for a stat, it's wide open. Just a theory, but with the larger an lines to the turbo you might be pushing more coolant past them and cooling them with that which dumps that hotter coolant right in the back of the head just before the temp sensor creating a slightly more localized "hot spot". Where before they could have had more heat dumped into the oil which would exchange the heat on the front end of the system with the stock and added cooler.

Side note, someone could have a crossover machined out of billet and have an ports put on the back of it to rout the coolant there if using an lines and that would skip the temp sensors. I think that would cause you to see less spikes in coolant temp while towing. The problem is, I think Ford designed it to be there as a "fuse" to prevent meltdown of the turbos.

Yeah, it stinks it got totaled, but on the bright side it put me in a lower milage 2021, which has been a great truck so far!

 

[MattyLite]

That's great man, glad the 21 is running well for you. I know they are stout. Good looking trucks too.

All that makes much more sense now. Sounds way more likely than less flow, because datalogging today showed high temps at boost then cool quickly in low boost or coasting conditions. At idle, it was steady in low 190s after a pull. I'm seeing the same big swings with the 170 stat, from 180s coasting to 212 in high boost conditions unloaded. I guess I was getting myself worked up over something small. I'll get that thermostat and old tune in soon.


I'm glad I reached out to you before I went to tearing into that passenger side again. What a pain. Thanks for all the info, means a lot that you and other guys on here posting good advice on how to remedy these issues without taking them to the stealership to get a half a job done that may or may not fix it.

 

[full-race geoff]

FYI - turbos do not spit out hot coolant while the engine is running. The difference between coolant temp in and coolant temp out is approximately 1.5 Fahrenheit

Water cooling for turbos is only functional when the engine is OFF and water pump stationary. Thermal siphoning (look it up) keeps the coolant moving through the turbo to prevent the red hot turbine wheels from heat soaking the bearings

 

[snakebitten]

That's an amazing fact that I have never heard before. Which is also amazing since I spend way too much effort reading every post posted.

So you can't be surprised if that little morsel of information immediately spurs a question or two? 😉

So the increase in coolant temps on the 3.5 Ecoboost that parallels with increase in boost...... since it's almost 0% the coolant exiting the turbo, what area in the coolant jacket/loop of the engine is coolant absorbing so much heat?

 

[FanaticalKilla]

That's an amazing fact that I have never heard before. Which is also amazing since I spend way too much effort reading every post posted.

So you can't be surprised if that little morsel of information immediately spurs a question or two? 😉

So the increase in coolant temps on the 3.5 Ecoboost that parallels with increase in boost...... since it's almost 0% the coolant exiting the turbo, what area in the coolant jacket/loop of the engine is coolant absorbing so much heat?

Cylinder temps/Head temperatures with direct injection and leaner running engines. I honestly think cylinder temps are through the roof on boost.

 

[Morris_223]

@Boatwaco feel free to move this to wherever you feel it should go.

This is for my gen 1 (2013)

Any questions, feel free to ask.

Turbo to back of head:
2x 6an full flow 90° back of head
Line length 15.25"
2x 6an full flow 45° turbo
4x M14x1.5 to 6an. The two that go in the turbo you need to make sure the threads are only 8.5mm in length.

Driver block to turbo:
1x M18x1.5 to 6an for the block.
1x 6an full flow 90° from block
Line length 3.4"
1x 6an full flow 60° from turbo
1x m14x1.5 to 6an for turbo. Make sure threads are only 8.5mm in length that thread into turbo

Passenger block to turbo:
1x m18x1.5 to 6an for the block
1x 6an female to male 90 elbow for behind AC compressor.
1x 6an straight off 90 elbow
Line length 3.65"
1x 6an full flow 90 turbo
1x m14x1.5 to 6an for turbo. Make sure threads are only 8.5mm in length that thread into turbo

Passenger side, attach line that comes from the block to the turbo first and the 90 to the block fitting. That leaves the straight connection to connect and you actually have room. After this is connected, then bolt the turbo to the manifold.

Driver's side there's actually more room, but wait to bolt the turbo to the manifold until after you attach this line.

The block to turbo lines are the biggest pain on both sides. They're also not straight shots, so make sure you get the angles close or your line length will be off

Make sure the turbo to back of head lines dont arch higher than the fitting on the head or you'll have a high spot that will have the potential for an air bubble.

6x m14x1.5 to 6an. 4 of them need 8.5mm of m14x1.5 thread length.

2x m18x1.5 to 6an

4x full flow 90 6an

2x full flow 45 6an

1x full flow 60 6an

1x 90 elbow male to female 6an

1x 6an straight

At least 5' of 6an line.

Proper size orings (whatever comes on the jiffy fittings). Sorry, I didn't measure sizes for this.

1x "custom" wrench

Pictures in no particular order.

Edit to add: The listed line lengths are the actual cut lengths.

View attachment 188553
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Excellent post! I'll definitely be look at this a lot today.

 

[Scott91370]

Are the AR fitting sizes listed above the same through the year ranges?....getting ready to tackle my 2016 coolant lines and manifolds soon...thanks

I'm not sure if everything above would work for a 2016.

Has anybody figured this out?
Mine is a 2015 and would hate to go through all this to find out they're different.

Also, the 0-rings (that cone on the jiffy fittings are mentioned)... Do these go on the AN fittings just as if they are the jiffy fitting?

 

[Gord0]

Has anybody figured this out?
Mine is a 2015 and would hate to go through all this to find out they're different.

Also, the 0-rings (that cone on the jiffy fittings are mentioned)... Do these go on the AN fittings just as if they are the jiffy fitting?

I couldn't tell you for sure, as I only did this to my 2013.

I believe I used the o rings that came on the outside of the jiffy fitting to go on the outside of the AN fitting, but it was a while ago and I also have a whole assortment of o rings at my disposal.

 

[Scott91370]

I tried cross referencing the part numbers and it appears that up to at least 2015 the jiffy fittings are the same - which should mean AN fittings will be the same.

I am going to list the jiffy fitting part numbers (someone else can check for the newer model cross referencing) but if anyone finds they should come out I totally understand.

Jiffy fittings
Quantity 4 - BL3Z-6A968-C (turbo oil fittings)
Quantity 2 - BL3Z-6A968-B (head oil fittings)
Quantity 2 - BL3Z-6A968-JD (block water fittings) supersedes BL3Z-6A968-A

Oil Screens
Left (BL3Z-6L625-G)
Right (BL3Z-6L625-F)

 

[Boatwaco]

I am going to list the jiffy fitting part numbers (someone else can check for the newer model cross referencing) but if anyone finds they should come out I totally understand.

Thanks for adding these part numbers! The crowd will vet them and update as needed.

 

[Upshifter]

Jiffy fittings
Quantity 4 - BL3Z-6A968-C (turbo oil fittings)
Quantity 2 - BL3Z-6A968-B (head oil fittings)
Quantity 2 - BL3Z-6A968-JD (block water fittings) supersedes BL3Z-6A968-A

Oil Screens
Left (BL3Z-6L625-G)
Right (BL3Z-6L625-F)

Can confirm these are the accurate part numbers for my 2015 3.5 job list.

 

[Tempest161]

I know this post is pretty old, but very well done Gord0. I have a 13 as well and it's been a real pain with the leaks after a new long block was installed. They screwed a lot of things up and did not tighten down a bunch of bolts either. I battled finding the biggest leak, which turned out to be the oil feed line from the block on the drivers side. Replaced the lines, but still getting leaks from the turbo connections and everything was brand new, lined up properly and torqued to spec, so going ahead and switching over to the AN lines. Have some on my S2K for years and they just don't leak! My question is, has anyone done this for the oil feed line as well?

 

[Gord0]

I know this post is pretty old, but very well done Gord0. I have a 13 as well and it's been a real pain with the leaks after a new long block was installed. They screwed a lot of things up and did not tighten down a bunch of bolts either. I battled finding the biggest leak, which turned out to be the oil feed line from the block on the drivers side. Replaced the lines, but still getting leaks from the turbo connections and everything was brand new, lined up properly and torqued to spec, so going ahead and switching over to the AN lines. Have some on my S2K for years and they just don't leak! My question is, has anyone done this for the oil feed line as well?

Not possible with the oil feed line on a 13 without a whole lot of custom work, including machining. Even then, it might not be possible. The stock oil feed and return lines are stainless, and generally don't have any problems. There is a very specific torque sequence on them though. And even sliding the gasket into place can damage it.

 

[Tempest161]

Not possible with the oil feed line on a 13 without a whole lot of custom work, including machining. Even then, it might not be possible. The stock oil feed and return lines are stainless, and generally don't have any problems. There is a very specific torque sequence on them though. And even sliding the gasket into place can damage it.

Thanks for the reply! I have all stainless lines on mine, although the fitments on the ones I have does not seem to be very good and they are the Dorman. I know the return would need a custom part to bolt onto the bottom, but I am not so concerned with those because they don't leak. Would something custom need to be made for just the feed? Last time I had everything off on the drivers side it looked like a pretty clear shot, but not sure on the passenger side.

 

[Gord0]

Thanks for the reply! I have all stainless lines on mine, although the fitments on the ones I have does not seem to be very good and they are the Dorman. I know the return would need a custom part to bolt onto the bottom, but I am not so concerned with those because they don't leak. Would something custom need to be made for just the feed? Last time I had everything off on the drivers side it looked like a pretty clear shot, but not sure on the passenger side.

Where exactly is the oil leaking from? Feed from the block, fitting on turbo which includes feed and drain, or drain fitting on block?