[Tempest161]

Where exactly is the oil leaking from? Feed from the block, fitting on turbo which includes feed and drain, or drain fitting on block?

I'm sorry, yes I was thinking coolant and feel like an idiot! I forgot they are one piece for the feed and drain and see why that would not be possible without something custom made, so I guess it is leaking from the bottom turbo oil fitting. I am going to try a new set of SS line as well and hopefully they will be a better fitment. I know those gaskets are crush and need to be replaced whenever you mess around with it, but why is there a specific sequence to the two bolts as long as it's flush with the return plate? It's to 18nm, but is there specific turn after that for each one I did not see when researching?

 

[Upshifter]

I know those gaskets are crush and need to be replaced whenever you mess around with it, but why is there a specific sequence to the two bolts as long as it's flush with the return plate? It's to 18nm, but is there specific turn after that for each one I did not see when researching?

Yes, another 30 degrees after initial torque.
But note initial torque is only 10 nm.

Also make sure the tab to the crush gasket is oriented downward, not up toward the turbo. That’s gotten some people.

 

[Gord0]

I'm sorry, yes I was thinking coolant and feel like an idiot! I forgot they are one piece for the feed and drain and see why that would not be possible without something custom made, so I guess it is leaking from the bottom turbo oil fitting. I am going to try a new set of SS line as well and hopefully they will be a better fitment. I know those gaskets are crush and need to be replaced whenever you mess around with it, but why is there a specific sequence to the two bolts as long as it's flush with the return plate? It's to 18nm, but is there specific turn after that for each one I did not see when researching?

And if you do get new lines, I would get them from Ford. Make sure you replace the oil screens coming out of the block if you didn't the first time around.

 

[Tempest161]

Thank you for this Upshifter!

Did have the gaskets correct, obviously had incorrect info for the torque and additional rotation.

 

[Tempest161]

And if you do get new lines, I would get them from Ford. Make sure you replace the oil screens coming out of the block if you didn't the first time around.

Yes, the oil screens are new! Are the Ford lines SS or does that really matter if they are new?

Thanks again for the replies Gord0!

 

[ShadeTreeJT]

Not to drum up an old post but Im going through this now and have a question.

How did you make sure the threads on the M14 fitting (turbo side) were 8.5mm? Just cut to size?

 

[FanaticalKilla]

Probably because the hole they go into bottoms at around that depth. But @Gord0 might know as well.

 

[Gord0]

It's been a while since I did this, but I'm pretty sure @FanaticalKilla is correct. With Full Race having the kit out now, I wouldn't make them on my own

 

[srs1990]

I’ve been researching this job for some months now and every time I go to look at the truck to see where everything is/goes I walk away. I can’t wrap my head around getting this done myself. Especially for getting to the rear lines into the block, I have very small hands and good reach and I can’t even get a finger on it, I was planning to do my manifolds and down pipes during this also but I still can’t see getting to that fitting. It’s a shame bc the rest of it looks like a cakewalk.

 

[FanaticalKilla]

Lots of people take off the intake manifold and go from the top. Topside creeper would help too.

 

[Gord0]

Yeah, taking the manifold off and going from the top is easiest. The passenger side is pretty visible from the wheel well when you get the inner liner out and the vacuum pump out of the way.

 

[srs1990]

That’s main reason I’m not a mechanic, taking half the dang truck apart just to get to a nipple basically🤦🏻

 

[FanaticalKilla]

That’s main reason I’m not a mechanic, taking half the dang truck apart just to get to a nipple basically🤦🏻

Gotta have patience and a methodical plan. It’s loads of fun then some days the whole plan goes to the wolves 🐺…

 

[srs1990]

Gotta have patience and a methodical plan. It’s loads of fun then some days the whole plan goes to the wolves 🐺…

It’s crazy bc most things in life including my job I am, very technically savvy, engineering degree, know cars and trucks well I just HATE doing work on my truck, my 2nd car was a lemon and I had it for 4 years and it left such a bad taste in my mouth anytime any vehicle I have has any problems I nearly lose my mind.

 

[ShadeTreeJT]

I’ve been researching this job for some months now and every time I go to look at the truck to see where everything is/goes I walk away. I can’t wrap my head around getting this done myself. Especially for getting to the rear lines into the block, I have very small hands and good reach and I can’t even get a finger on it, I was planning to do my manifolds and down pipes during this also but I still can’t see getting to that fitting. It’s a shame bc the rest of it looks like a cakewalk.

Ive pulled the whole motor so Im doing it all at once.

 

[srs1990]

Ive pulled the whole motor so Im doing it all at once.

I’m mostly hands off but also interested and helping my buddy swap his Tacoma motor this weekend or at least get started. lol just glad it ain’t mine. But yes I’d love to easily just lift the cab and this turbo line manifold job would be cake ish.

 

[Upshifter]

I’ve been researching this job for some months now and every time I go to look at the truck to see where everything is/goes I walk away. I can’t wrap my head around getting this done myself. Especially for getting to the rear lines into the block, I have very small hands and good reach and I can’t even get a finger on it, I was planning to do my manifolds and down pipes during this also but I still can’t see getting to that fitting. It’s a shame bc the rest of it looks like a cakewalk.

I resemble this remark! To the point that after debating DIY for too long, I chickened out and had a shop do it.

Well, I had to do Turbo R&R as well as downpipe R&R myself after that anyway.

And if I had known before what I knew after I did that, I would have tackled it myself.*

*Note the asterisk. I think that the biggest risks/challenges to this job are 1) getting at that fitting at the back of the head and 2) dealing with any broken manifold studs, if applicable. Because the shop did the job the first time, they dealt with both of those things for me, so admittedly I did not have to.

As for 1) I understand that is more daunting on the 12th gen trucks due to restricted firewall clearance.

So all that to say - if you can get comfortable with items #1 & 2 above (a not insignificant IF), then actually the rest of the job was not as bad as just looking at the plumbing suggests at first glance. Once the fender liners are removed there is plenty of access to most everything. There are a lot of steps, it takes a darn long while for a DIY-er in the driveway, but nothing is overly complex if you take your time.

 

[cabrooks15]

@Boatwaco feel free to move this to wherever you feel it should go.

This is for my gen 1 (2013)

Any questions, feel free to ask.

Turbo to back of head:
2x 6an full flow 90° back of head
Line length 15.25"
2x 6an full flow 45° turbo
4x M14x1.5 to 6an. The two that go in the turbo you need to make sure the threads are only 8.5mm in length.

Driver block to turbo:
1x M18x1.5 to 6an for the block.
1x 6an full flow 90° from block
Line length 3.4"
1x 6an full flow 60° from turbo
1x m14x1.5 to 6an for turbo. Make sure threads are only 8.5mm in length that thread into turbo

Passenger block to turbo:
1x m18x1.5 to 6an for the block
1x 6an female to male 90 elbow for behind AC compressor.
1x 6an straight off 90 elbow
Line length 3.65"
1x 6an full flow 90 turbo
1x m14x1.5 to 6an for turbo. Make sure threads are only 8.5mm in length that thread into turbo

Passenger side, attach line that comes from the block to the turbo first and the 90 to the block fitting. That leaves the straight connection to connect and you actually have room. After this is connected, then bolt the turbo to the manifold.

Driver's side there's actually more room, but wait to bolt the turbo to the manifold until after you attach this line.

The block to turbo lines are the biggest pain on both sides. They're also not straight shots, so make sure you get the angles close or your line length will be off

Make sure the turbo to back of head lines dont arch higher than the fitting on the head or you'll have a high spot that will have the potential for an air bubble.

6x m14x1.5 to 6an. 4 of them need 8.5mm of m14x1.5 thread length.

2x m18x1.5 to 6an

4x full flow 90 6an

2x full flow 45 6an

1x full flow 60 6an

1x 90 elbow male to female 6an

1x 6an straight

At least 5' of 6an line.

Proper size orings (whatever comes on the jiffy fittings). Sorry, I didn't measure sizes for this.

1x "custom" wrench

Pictures in no particular order.

Edit to add: The listed line lengths are the actual cut lengths.

View attachment 188553
View attachment 188554
View attachment 188556
View attachment 188555
View attachment 188551
View attachment 188552

@Boatwaco feel free to move this to wherever you feel it should go.

This is for my gen 1 (2013)

Any questions, feel free to ask.

Turbo to back of head:
2x 6an full flow 90° back of head
Line length 15.25"
2x 6an full flow 45° turbo
4x M14x1.5 to 6an. The two that go in the turbo you need to make sure the threads are only 8.5mm in length.

Driver block to turbo:
1x M18x1.5 to 6an for the block.
1x 6an full flow 90° from block
Line length 3.4"
1x 6an full flow 60° from turbo
1x m14x1.5 to 6an for turbo. Make sure threads are only 8.5mm in length that thread into turbo

Passenger block to turbo:
1x m18x1.5 to 6an for the block
1x 6an female to male 90 elbow for behind AC compressor.
1x 6an straight off 90 elbow
Line length 3.65"
1x 6an full flow 90 turbo
1x m14x1.5 to 6an for turbo. Make sure threads are only 8.5mm in length that thread into turbo

Passenger side, attach line that comes from the block to the turbo first and the 90 to the block fitting. That leaves the straight connection to connect and you actually have room. After this is connected, then bolt the turbo to the manifold.

Driver's side there's actually more room, but wait to bolt the turbo to the manifold until after you attach this line.

The block to turbo lines are the biggest pain on both sides. They're also not straight shots, so make sure you get the angles close or your line length will be off

Make sure the turbo to back of head lines dont arch higher than the fitting on the head or you'll have a high spot that will have the potential for an air bubble.

6x m14x1.5 to 6an. 4 of them need 8.5mm of m14x1.5 thread length.

2x m18x1.5 to 6an

4x full flow 90 6an

2x full flow 45 6an

1x full flow 60 6an

1x 90 elbow male to female 6an

1x 6an straight

At least 5' of 6an line.

Proper size orings (whatever comes on the jiffy fittings). Sorry, I didn't measure sizes for this.

1x "custom" wrench

Pictures in no particular order.

Edit to add: The listed line lengths are the actual cut lengths.

View attachment 188553
View attachment 188554
View attachment 188556
View attachment 188555
View attachment 188551
View attachment 188552

Can you maybe send the link of where you bought all these parts from, looking to do this kind of upgrade myself.

 

[Gord0]

Can you maybe send the link of where you bought all these parts from, looking to do this kind of upgrade myself.

It's been a while, but I believe Amazon. Your best bet, and easiest thing to do now is to buy the kit from full race.

 

[galant805]

great info, thank you !