[Pinero61]

The one guy on here that did a real detailed thread of replacing his engine because it threw a rod did a calculation(he's engineer) that shows it takes a small amount of fluid to get sucked up in this engine to be enough to not digest IE liquid does not compress and breaking the rod off the bottom of piston like everyone has that has blown up. That is of course different than hydrolock, but still important to know.

I'm not saying that the water will not cause damage, but to get enough water to actually hydrolock the engine is not a normal occurrence.

The water will raise the compression ratio in that cylinder until it passes. That cause an imbalance between cylinders, and stresses many components. It will, however, quickly vaporize and pass. In order to hydro lock the cylinder, yo have to exceed the amount of volume the cylinder has at TDC with liquid. Then, one of two things will happen. You'll lock up the engine, or one of the rotating assembly components will fail.


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[Elkhart]

You do realize that someone here already did the math on the amount of condensate needed to lock up the engine, right? The answer was actually a very small amount. I would argue that the majority of blown engines are condensate related... Thus the requirement of a weep hole in the intercooler.

 

[Pinero61]

You do realize that someone here already did the math on the amount of condensate needed to lock up the engine, right? The answer was actually a very small amount. I would argue that the majority of blown engines are condensate related... Thus the requirement of a weep hole in the intercooler.

I would argue that the vast majority are knock related. Creating a boost leak purposely, baffles me... you're not creating enough condensation to warrant draining it. Diesel engines create condensation all the same as the ecoboost. I've seen several powestrokes hydrolock, but not once have I seen one hydrolock from water without being submerged.

I live in one of the most humid climates in the US, and even for me, the condensation issue is almost non existent. You're looking at several ounces of fluid to hydrolock a single cylinder. Water ingestion does not equal hydrolock.




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[Elkhart]

 

[Pinero61]

I'm at a heliport in brazil, I'll watch it when I get some wifi.


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[Mike Wood]

Oh look, the troll chicken little sky is falling elkhart is at it again...guess he had a lot of coffee this past week. I leave for a work trip and come back, log on, and his crap is spewed all across the forum yet again...

 

[n3srj]

2011 and the first death rattle

I meant to say phasers, I had my old Nissan Frontier on my mind where the timing chain went bad....

This is a CPO truck so I'm covered up to 100k I believe. I assume yours locked up? How bad did yours sound before it went? Is this only an issue for the F150 ecoboost variant? I haven't heard about this with any other model. I also own a 2013 Flex Ecoboost and that engine purrs...even with the Mobil1 filter.

I have been thinking about selling it tho to just get a "truck" and not a platinum pickup. My savings can then go toward a 2017 Gt350...

Have read the whole thread good and bad... With that being said...My 2011 xlt made that death noise for the first time since owned it (8/23/16).

Now here are my circumstances.. Truck has sit since 12/3/16 .. nose down in the driveway.. it was really cold here in florida.. 78 deg. I have 86k on the clock. I'm the 3rd owner.. It does have a CPO warranty good for 100k or JULY 2018 which ever comes first. I have only put almost 1k on it. (trying to save it for retirement to tow the toys!)

For reference it has had 2 tsb's done on it since i've owned it.. The intercooler shudder and the bad cat driver side. My dealer had no issue with either tsb. Now as i said it hasn't done it since friday but i'm going to turn it around and park nose up.. I have always tried to run it once a week but with the holidays time has flown by.

No other issues, runs great, i get 22-23 mpg highway. so i guess i just keep an ear on it and maybe get her in before July 2018??

Just thought i'd trow this out there.. I love the truck to bad as it seems i got one of those TRUCKS.

Happy Holiday's

-rich

 

[winchested]

Yup keep an ear on it and when it starts getting more frequent get it in before the warranty is pooched.

 

[winchested]

I'm pretty sure 90% of these engines will eventually be "one of the bad ones". But the engine is a monster otherwise.

 

[EcoXLT]

I'm pretty sure 90% of these engines will eventually be "one of the bad ones". But the engine is a monster otherwise.

90% of the 2011's maybe. Ha ha. To me it's not necessarily the death of a truck cause it is fixable. Just kind of expensive though.

 

[jar944]

78K, $750 in replacement parts

new chain installed

chain stretch comparison

worn intake phasers

tensioner

 

[dnellans]

78K, $750 in replacement parts

new chain installed

chain stretch comparison

worn intake phasers

tensioner

$750 was full parts bill of material from ford directly? did you do all work yourself? interested in how long it took you and how hard. i'm at 82 k and mine still isn't getting worse, happens once every 6 months and the goes back into hiding. but that can't last forever

 

[jar944]

$750 was full parts bill of material from ford directly? did you do all work yourself? interested in how long it took you and how hard. i'm at 82 k and mine still isn't getting worse, happens once every 6 months and the goes back into hiding. but that can't last forever

mine went from no issues to intermittent limp mode (P0016 pending fault) to full error in about 200 miles.

$750 was the 14tsb parts (chain, gaskets etc,) +

2 intake phasers
2 phaser bolts
crank gear
timing idler (part of the water pump outlet)
left and right primary chain guides
tensioner
ac belt
main acessory drive belt

maybe 15 hours of actuall work, would be a single day if done again

most of my time was waiting on parts or wasted trying to find a puller and install bolt for the crank pulley

 

[JerryTX]

Jar944: congrats to you for getting it done, the job is a PIA in terms of time I know. A few observations/comments:

Mine started rattling occasionally at 60K miles and I replaced it all at 112K miles, never had metal in the oil and never got a code, just wanted piece of mind. I used "3.5L GTDI - COLD START - TICKING/TAPPING OR RATTLE TYPE NOISE- BUILT ON OR BEFORE 5/29/2015 TSB 15-0131" and it specifies new Intake AND Exhaust cam phasers, and it does NOT specify a new tensioner or guides. I went ahead and changed the tensioner too but kept the guides since they looked good. NOTE: the Ford tear down of the Ecoboost engine that got all the media attention and went through a durability torture test: that engine was on the 3rd tensioner tooth when they took it apart. Mine was on the 4th when I took it apart. Yours shows 7 teeth exposed (a LOT more stretch)!! ALSO note, when I put mine back together with new chain, tensioner, Intake and Exhaust VCT Phasers, it reset back to 3 teeth, just like Ford's "Thrashed" engine.. yeah right.

The teeth on your phasers bear some serious witness marks from the chain, clearly yours was stretched to hell.. the teeth on mine just show normal light witness marks, nothing concerning. Why did you choose NOT to change the exhaust VCT phasers? The TSB calls for it? I found it a little odd that the secondary chains weren't spec'd in the TSB and I almost wish I did that too, but they looked perfect and had no slop that concerned me.

Edit to add: the damper/balancer install tool was a PIA to find in stock, OTC 303-102 plus a large socket to fill the gap. Stallion ST-144 is an equivalent tool almost to the OTC tool, saves a few bucks, just know how the damper/balancer goes on before doing it (tip: it doesn't sit flush with the crank snout, manual never states that).

 

[RMB_Ryan]

Jar944: congrats to you for getting it done, the job is a PIA in terms of time I know. A few observations/comments:

Mine started rattling occasionally at 60K miles and I replaced it all at 112K miles, never had metal in the oil and never got a code, just wanted piece of mind. I used "3.5L GTDI - COLD START - TICKING/TAPPING OR RATTLE TYPE NOISE- BUILT ON OR BEFORE 5/29/2015 TSB 15-0131" and it specifies new Intake AND Exhaust cam phasers, and it does NOT specify a new tensioner or guides. I went ahead and changed the tensioner too but kept the guides since they looked good. NOTE: the Ford tear down of the Ecoboost engine that got all the media attention and went through a durability torture test: that engine was on the 3rd tensioner tooth when they took it apart. Mine was on the 4th when I took it apart. Yours shows 7 teeth exposed (a LOT more stretch)!! ALSO note, when I put mine back together with new chain, tensioner, Intake and Exhaust VCT Phasers, it reset back to 3 teeth, just like Ford's "Thrashed" engine.. yeah right.

The teeth on your phasers bear some serious witness marks from the chain, clearly yours was stretched to hell.. the teeth on mine just show normal light witness marks, nothing concerning. Why did you choose NOT to change the exhaust VCT phasers? The TSB calls for it? I found it a little odd that the secondary chains weren't spec'd in the TSB and I almost wish I did that too, but they looked perfect and had no slop that concerned me.

Edit to add: the damper/balancer install tool was a PIA to find in stock, OTC 303-102 plus a large socket to fill the gap. Stallion ST-144 is an equivalent tool almost to the OTC tool, saves a few bucks, just know how the damper/balancer goes on before doing it (tip: it doesn't sit flush with the crank snout, manual never states that).

For everyone wanting to install the pulley. With the installer use a 1-1/4" iron worker spud wrench. Has the perfect offset for the dampener. AJAX makes them. It's a trick I've been using and it works with little effort. I do recommend changing both phasers, secondary chains and tensioners as well. While it is open also change the VCT solenoids. Will not hurt and they are only 35-40 bucks a piece.

 

[jar944]

Jar944: congrats to you for getting it done, the job is a PIA in terms of time I know. A few observations/comments:

Mine started rattling occasionally at 60K miles and I replaced it all at 112K miles, never had metal in the oil and never got a code, just wanted piece of mind. I used "3.5L GTDI - COLD START - TICKING/TAPPING OR RATTLE TYPE NOISE- BUILT ON OR BEFORE 5/29/2015 TSB 15-0131" and it specifies new Intake AND Exhaust cam phasers, and it does NOT specify a new tensioner or guides. I went ahead and changed the tensioner too but kept the guides since they looked good. NOTE: the Ford tear down of the Ecoboost engine that got all the media attention and went through a durability torture test: that engine was on the 3rd tensioner tooth when they took it apart. Mine was on the 4th when I took it apart. Yours shows 7 teeth exposed (a LOT more stretch)!! ALSO note, when I put mine back together with new chain, tensioner, Intake and Exhaust VCT Phasers, it reset back to 3 teeth, just like Ford's "Thrashed" engine.. yeah right.

The teeth on your phasers bear some serious witness marks from the chain, clearly yours was stretched to hell.. the teeth on mine just show normal light witness marks, nothing concerning. Why did you choose NOT to change the exhaust VCT phasers? The TSB calls for it? I found it a little odd that the secondary chains weren't spec'd in the TSB and I almost wish I did that too, but they looked perfect and had no slop that concerned me.

Edit to add: the damper/balancer install tool was a PIA to find in stock, OTC 303-102 plus a large socket to fill the gap. Stallion ST-144 is an equivalent tool almost to the OTC tool, saves a few bucks, just know how the damper/balancer goes on before doing it (tip: it doesn't sit flush with the crank snout, manual never states that).

Mine never rattled. It just lost power and threw the code shortly after.

As far as why I replaced parts not on the tsb, conventional wisdom on every other application says replace all parts in contact with the worn out item. In this case it was all 4 gears on the primary gear train (the intake phasers, crank and idler gears). All as expected showed wear.

I saw no reason to do the exhaust phasers as they showed no wear.

The tsb imho is only good for part locating part numbers and wiping oil off your hands.

As for installing the crank pulley, it only takes a m12x1.5x100 bolt and a stack of washers to install.

 

[RMB_Ryan]

Yup crank pulley is a very quick one to get on. I happen to have a spud wrench laying around and it worked better than I ever would have thought. Under a 5 min process. Now taking one off with everything still in your way can be a battle that is rewarding to win. Lots of tools out there better than otc. I actually machined a few sets of new cam holding plates for holding at TDC. If anyone needs a set ever pm me


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[jar944]

Yup crank pulley is a very quick one to get on. I happen to have a spud wrench laying around and it worked better than I ever would have thought. Under a 5 min process. Now taking one off with everything still in your way can be a battle that is rewarding to win. Lots of tools out there better than otc. I actually machined a few sets of new cam holding plates for holding at TDC. If anyone needs a set ever pm me




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I had that same thought, even measured the holders @ the dealer.

 

[RMB_Ryan]

I had that same thought, even measured the holders @ the dealer.

Yes that looks pretty good. I bought the tools and the secondary timing chain guide hold down pin. I didn't like the fit so I scanned it into our system, and machined a few sets. It locks and holds them much better now. Specifically when torquing the phaser bolts during the final torque to yield.

 

[lewis26]

Yes that looks pretty good. I bought the tools and the secondary timing chain guide hold down pin. I didn't like the fit so I scanned it into our system, and machined a few sets. It locks and holds them much better now. Specifically when torquing the phaser bolts during the final torque to yield.

I found it easier to just use a wrench on the cam flats when doing the final toruqe. But we also had 2 people working on it so the extra set of hands helped a lot.