[dbd1313]

The service manager is checking to see if they will work with me. Whatever that means. The truck is a 2011 with 100k miles on it. It's in good shape and I've only ever run premium fuel through it. I had planned on keeping it indefinitely. Now I am questioning the reliability and wondering if I should trade it in while it still has some value or spend the 3k and hope nothing else goes wrong.

I take it that it is no longer under warranty? Yup, your screwed. If you had a great relationship with your dealer and you could verify that this is the reason you took it in 6 months ago they may make things a bit less painful. I'm assuming that since you've told them to stick it, you're past that point.

 

[waterbuffalo]

The service manager is checking to see if they will work with me. Whatever that means. The truck is a 2011 with 100k miles on it. It's in good shape and I've only ever run premium fuel through it. I had planned on keeping it indefinitely. Now I am questioning the reliability and wondering if I should trade it in while it still has some value or spend the 3k and hope nothing else goes wrong.

Make sure you have your service records, oil changes especially . If not, edit ; write them down in your truck manual if you don’t have them.

Edit ; (knock on wood) I have had mine done 20k ago and still running great. I don’t plain on doing anything with the truck because of I’ve only had to do basic maintenance and the truck still feels like it’s brand new to me. Good luck to ya !


2012 screw 3.5L

 

[dbd1313]

Thanks. I've only ever had the truck serviced at that dealership so all my oil changes are in my vehicle service history. With a fresh detail the truck looks brand new and I've upgraded the suspension, spray in bed liner, flip bed cover, etc... I really don't want to start over with a new truck, especially as this one is paid off. Dealer is giving me $500 off the cost of the work so I told them go ahead. Knock on wood there are no other problems.

Make sure you have your service records, oil changes especially . If not, make them up and right them in your truck manual. [emoji106] .

Edit ; (knock on wood) I have had mine done 20k ago and still running great. I don’t plain on doing anything with the truck because of I’ve only had to do basic maintenance and the truck still feels like it’s brand new to me. Good luck to ya !


2012 screw 3.5L

 

[GearHead_1]

Make sure you have your service records, oil changes especially . If not, make them up and right them in your truck manual. [emoji106] .

I know this comment was made in jest and I'm not preaching here. We all know that no matter how much we may actually deserve something, even when we've been wronged, a man's integrity isn't worth the price of a free repair or the whole truck for that matter. Once it's gone, it's gone.

 

[dbd1313]

I have tried searching the thread and can't find the post that is being referred to about which parts should be replaced with the timing chain/phaser replacement. Mine is currently at the shop and about to undergo the repair. I confirmed that they are going with the latest TSB and replacing the chain and the phasers and whatever is in there, but what else SHOULD be replaced, like the selenoids. Would rather just get this all taken care of now and buy once, cry once. Thanks.

Can you please please send me the part number for the tensioner they used on your repair. PM it if you would prefer. Seems odd it was only the tensioner as well. I am working on something and I may have an answer what the issue is with yours. But I need the actual part number they used for the tensioner and the arm that the tensioner pushes against on passenger side please

 

[waterbuffalo]

I know this comment was made in jest and I'm not preaching here. We all know that no matter how much we may actually deserve something, even when we've been wronged, a man's integrity isn't worth the price of a free repair or the whole truck for that matter. Once it's gone, it's gone.

Let me say that I’m not implying anyone make up their own miles.

Just nearly saying;
I did all my oil changes and never wrote them all down. So when they asked me the first time, I wrote what I remembered, At evey oil change light. And just under 10k, Yes I said 10k. That’s what I did every time. So the actual dealer ship I took It to didn’t even ask me for one so .......end of story.

I will go back and edit to correct way I was referring to.


2012 screw 3.5L

 

[waterbuffalo]

I have tried searching the thread and can't find the post that is being referred to about which parts should be replaced with the timing chain/phaser replacement. Mine is currently at the shop and about to undergo the repair. I confirmed that they are going with the latest TSB and replacing the chain and the phasers and whatever is in there, but what else SHOULD be replaced, like the selenoids. Would rather just get this all taken care of now and buy once, cry once. Thanks.

Your good then. I can send you mine, to compare it to. I’ll try to find it.


2012 screw 3.5L

 

[grover738]

Just checking in. I've got a 2011, bought just out of warranty, rattle started at 65,000 miles in October of 2015. I've gone 2 years and 30,000 miles with the rattle. I tried different oils, filters, no difference. There are only three things that have an effect on whether or not it rattles: 1) how long you park it 2) what the temperature outside is and 3) how long you crank it over. I've gotten pretty good at knowing how long to crank it. 10-12 seconds does it in most situations, but if it sits more than a few days in the summer it takes up to 15-20 seconds. I'm coming into non-rattle season here in Minnesota, the colder the better.

I've had my cams checked once, they were .5 degrees out of spec. Mileage is still great, just got 570 miles on a tank which was about 21 mpg. Power is great. No plans to do anything right now. I put in a magnetic drain plug last oil change to check for debris in the oil, we'll see in 1500 miles if I have any metal in my oil. Thanks to all you guys for all the information. Two years ago when I read this thread it seemed like Ford didn't have things figured out on how to fix it, and that still seems to be the situation. So I'll wait.

 

[Mcarro18]

Timing chain issue

Just checking in. I've got a 2011, bought just out of warranty, rattle started at 65,000 miles in October of 2015. I've gone 2 years and 30,000 miles with the rattle. I tried different oils, filters, no difference. There are only three things that have an effect on whether or not it rattles: 1) how long you park it 2) what the temperature outside is and 3) how long you crank it over. I've gotten pretty good at knowing how long to crank it. 10-12 seconds does it in most situations, but if it sits more than a few days in the summer it takes up to 15-20 seconds. I'm coming into non-rattle season here in Minnesota, the colder the better.

I've had my cams checked once, they were .5 degrees out of spec. Mileage is still great, just got 570 miles on a tank which was about 21 mpg. Power is great. No plans to do anything right now. I put in a magnetic drain plug last oil change to check for debris in the oil, we'll see in 1500 miles if I have any metal in my oil. Thanks to all you guys for all the information. Two years ago when I read this thread it seemed like Ford didn't have things figured out on how to fix it, and that still seems to be the situation. So I'll wait.

I have a 2012 F-150 with the 3.5 eco. I've had this issue at 50,000 miles and again at 97,000 miles and now at 148,000 mile the issue is back. The first issue at 50,000 they changed the timing chain and at 97,000 they changed the cam phasers and chain. I haven't taken it to the dealership yet but it has the same issues. Is there a fix for this issue?

 

[winchested]

Yep put an engine built after 2015 in it..

What are the problems you're having other than the rattle?

 

[phillycobra]

Round two at the dealership for me, they agreed to give me a loaner vehicle this time around. It's been three days and they still haven't diagnosed it.

 

[dbd1313]

So I got my truck back after 3 weeks and $2600 later with a new timing chain. I looked at the invoice to check what oil the dealer used and it says 5w-20. I've been having this dealer service my car for the last 50k miles. Unfortunately I just never knew I needed to double check the dealer on what oil to use. If they've been using this oil all along is my engine likely in trouble? I'll be calling the service manager on Monday.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

 

[RMB_Ryan]

So I got my truck back after 3 weeks and $2600 later with a new timing chain. I looked at the invoice to check what oil the dealer used and it says 5w-20. I've been having this dealer service my car for the last 50k miles. Unfortunately I just never knew I needed to double check the dealer on what oil to use. If they've been using this oil all along is my engine likely in trouble? I'll be calling the service manager on Monday.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

I recommend changing to a 5w30 if your motors stock. However, depending on your OCI's, running a 5w20 will not hurt anything. When the ecoboost first hit the market ford spec'd 5W20, then later changed the spec to a 5W30 due to fuel dilution issues from their 10,000 mile OCI recommendation. We use a 5W40-5W50 oil on the 3.5l ecoboost motors we setup a little differently. The oil we recommend is heavily dependent on how your variable cam timing looks on the intake cams. ?

 

[aj.n.amber]

I recommend changing to a 5w30 if your motors stock. However, depending on your OCI's, running a 5w20 will not hurt anything. When the ecoboost first hit the market ford spec'd 5W20, then later changed the spec to a 5W30 due to fuel dilution issues from their 10,000 mile OCI recommendation. We use a 5W40-5W50 oil on the 3.5l ecoboost motors we setup a little differently. The oil we recommend is heavily dependent on how your variable cam timing looks on the intake cams. ?

Would recommend the higher oil for tuned motors that hear the timing adjustment on accelerations?

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk

 

[RMB_Ryan]

Would recommend the higher oil for tuned motors that hear the timing adjustment on accelerations?

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I'd recommend 5w30 for every stock motor. There is a lot to look at when looking at your variable cam timing in degrees and seeing what your oil is doing in your VCT solenoids. Not something I'd recommend, sorry.

 

[RMB_Ryan]

Ford did some nice changes to the 2017+ "mega" cam caps ( as they call them) located at the front of the cylinder head and controls the oil flow to VCT solenoids and houses the solenoids. The internal oil galleys are shorter and larger, allowing higher flow of oil to the solenoids. This is my opinion anyway

 

[XXXford]

2017 3.5 litre Eco-boost. I mean I really own it! I am so glad to finally be on this forum. I mean I wake up with an erection in the middle of the night and wake up to look at my truck.

Has anyone had a chance to have sez with their truck yet? I came in my tailpipe the other night.

But, I'm having some trouble lately I think my truck has been cheating one me.

I caught my neighbor exposing his penis to my trucks cameras the other night.

Since then I have been very depressed.

 

[XXXford]

Has anyone had sex with their truck yet?

 

[mwemaxxowner]

Has anyone had sex with their truck yet?

What's it to ya?

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

 

[GearHead_1]

All kinds of totally stupid in the world.